W-Nikkor 3.5 f/1.8 disassembly and cleaning

[jonmanjiro]

Ohhh damn that's a shame, but there's still hope! The front element and the second group are just screwed together, and you can separate them easily using a rubber band for grip on the front rim and the right sized rubber cup on the back.

Edit: Just read your edit. Good luck! BTW I wouldn't use lighter fluid on the glass. Ethanol on a microfiber cloth should be sufficient.

 

[Papercut]

Ohhh damn that's a shame, but there's still hope! The front element and the second group are just screwed together, and you can separate them easily using a rubber band for grip on the front rim and the right sized rubber cup on the back.

Edit: Just read your edit. Good luck! BTW I wouldn't use lighter fluid on the glass. Ethanol on a microfiber cloth should be sufficient.

Thanks for the continuing walk-through, Jon!

I'll try some ethanol. (Have to go get that too.)

 

[Peter Jennings]

The oily aperture on my lens caused little oily drops to condense on the glass just in front of the aperture blades. I noticed some flare from this before I cleaned the glass. Now that it's clean, I've not noticed any flare - in fact, I'm really impressed with the contrast of this lens. It seems very modern considering its age.

Good luck with your lens, Kevin

 

[Papercut]

The oily aperture on my lens caused little oily drops to condense on the glass just in front of the aperture blades. I noticed some flare from this before I cleaned the glass. Now that it's clean, I've not noticed any flare - in fact, I'm really impressed with the contrast of this lens. It seems very modern considering its age.

Good luck with your lens, Kevin

Thanks, Peter! I'm glad yours cleaned up so well. I'm hoping it turns out similarly for me -- gonna go get some ethanol later this morning and make an attempt.

 

[Papercut]

Okay, another question for you more experienced guys.

If the haze is from aperture blade oil that has gone backwards (onto the very front-facing surface of the rear element groups), can I clean that one surface by opening the aperture blades up fully and carefully swabbing the glass from the front? (The front element is off already, of course.) Or is that too risky (bumping the blades with a Qtip might knock them out of whack?) and I will have to remove all the rear element groups?

I hope that's clear enough of a question ... if not, I'll try to rephrase.

 

[jonmanjiro]

If the haze is from aperture blade oil that has gone backwards (onto the very front-facing surface of the rear element groups), can I clean that one surface by opening the aperture blades up fully and carefully swabbing the glass from the front?

Yep. I'd recommend cleaning that surface anyway. Work carefully and take your time, and you'll be fine. You can't really bump the aperture blades out of place. The main hassle (albeit a minor one) is getting cotton fibers from the Q-tip fibers stuck in the aperture mechanism.

 

[Papercut]

Yep. I'd recommend cleaning that surface anyway. Work carefully and take your time, and you'll be fine. You can't really bump the aperture blades out of place. The main hassle (albeit a minor one) is getting cotton fibers from the Q-tip fibers stuck in the aperture mechanism.

Thanks again, Jon! You're a wealth of helpful advice!


I've contacted the eBay seller and he's agreed to split the cleaning cost (assuming it's fixable and the elements aren't etched). He agreed to split professional cleaning cost -- if Nippon Photo Clinic says it's not repairable (etched surfaces, etc.), then I'll hit him for a full refund and return it.

So, now I need to decide whether to try it myself or let the pros handle it. Hrmmmm. Probably for my pocketbook's protection I should do the latter. (And give up photography altogether too, actually.) 😀

 

[Papercut]

Update:

Well, Nippon Photo Clinic can't clean the lens. The haze is in between elements and attempting to clean it would damage the lens. So it is going back to the seller for a full refund since the description said "no haze, no fungus." What a bummer! But I am glad I didn't try to clean it myself and end out not being able to return it. Disappointed, but at least I dodged an expensive bullet: would suck to be stuck with a $1750 paperweight! 😀

Thanks for all the help and advice in this thread guys.

 

[pepeguitarra]

When I did my first and only one then lens cleanup, it was 5 years ago. I tried a PORST 55/1.2 M42. I took apart blades and springs. I could not put it back together. I sent it to the Pentax specialist ERIC, and he could not do it either.

Last week, I got some tools and cleaned up the Elmar 50/2.8 and Canon 50/1.2. Here is a photo taken with the Elmar after cleaning. The pic shows lighter fluid and flash light with rubbers, etc. used for the cleaning.



L1024896 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr

 

[jonmanjiro]

Update:

Well, Nippon Photo Clinic can't clean the lens. The haze is in between elements and attempting to clean it would damage the lens. So it is going back to the seller for a full refund since the description said "no haze, no fungus." What a bummer! But I am glad I didn't try to clean it myself and end out not being able to return it. Disappointed, but at least I dodged an expensive bullet: would suck to be stuck with a $1750 paperweight! 😀

Thanks for all the help and advice in this thread guys.

That's a shame! At least you didn't get stuck with a dud lens though.

Last week, I got some tools and cleaned up the Elmar 50/2.8 and Canon 50/1.2.

So, hot on the heals of your recent cleaning successes, you're saying that you're willing to have a go at cleaning Kevin's lens that Nippon Photo Clinic couldn't clean? Very generous of you 🙂

 

[Papercut]

That's a shame! At least you didn't get stuck with a dud lens though.



So, hot on the heals of your recent cleaning successes, you're saying that you're willing to have a go at cleaning Kevin's lens that Nippon Photo Clinic couldn't clean? Very generous of you 🙂

Yeah, I'm counting my blessings. I am, however, also now regretting missing out on your UC-Hexanon in the Classifieds! Grrrrrr. Bad timing. 🙂

 

[pepeguitarra]

That's a shame! At least you didn't get stuck with a dud lens though.



So, hot on the heals of your recent cleaning successes, you're saying that you're willing to have a go at cleaning Kevin's lens that Nippon Photo Clinic couldn't clean? Very generous of you 🙂

Heheheeh, do not push it.!! 🙂

 

[Papercut]

Well the lens has been returned and the purchase refunded.

The seller has already sold it again (for almost the same money), this time noting the haze in the description. (He had it relisted and sold even before I had posted it back to him!) I hope no one on RFF bought it, because likely it's not repairable or gonna cost an arm and a leg to fix at Focal Point. Ser. no. 182018.

Still on the lookout for a clean copy. Anyone here selling their's? 😀 😀

 

[Peter Jennings]

Good luck in your search! The rarity of this lens in LTM makes it desirable to some irregardless of the haze issue. So, not too surprised about the quick resale.

 

[Papercut]

Good luck in your search! The rarity of this lens in LTM makes it desirable to some irregardless of the haze issue. So, not too surprised about the quick resale.

Thanks, Peter. Yeah, that's pretty much what I told the seller.

If nothing else, I had my first experience opening up a lens from this. Can a table strewn with partially disassembled lenses be far off now? 😉

 

[Peter Jennings]

As an addendum to this thread, I thought I'd add that I acquired another copy of this lens recently from eBay. It was disassembled but complete. I got it in order to gain a little more experience in lens maintenance while avoiding the worry of destroying while taking it apart. Of course, the aperture blades were the hardest part. This lens was more difficult than others I'd rebuilt because the holes for the rear blade pins were not drilled through. I was effectively blind and had no idea where the pins were in relation to their corresponding holes. But after several restarts and gentle, persistent coaxing two pins caught and then the rest quickly followed. I NEVER WANT TO DO THAT AGAIN!

[/url]image by Peter Jennings, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]image by Peter Jennings, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]image by Peter Jennings, on Flickr[/IMG]



But now the lens is together and it works great. I don't need two copies of this lens, so this one will be going up for sale soon, or PM me if you're interested.

 

[Papercut]

Peter -- yours is another S-mount, not LTM, right?

 

[Peter Jennings]

Yes, Kevin. Sorry.

 

[Papercut]

Yes, Kevin. Sorry.

It's okay. I'd have to sell some stuff before I could justify it anyway, as I just splashed for a late German copy of the 35 summilux pre-asph. I can afford to be patient. Hope you find a buyer quickly.

 

[Calzone]

As an addendum to this thread, I thought I'd add that I acquired another copy of this lens recently from eBay. It was disassembled but complete. I got it in order to gain a little more experience in lens maintenance while avoiding the worry of destroying while taking it apart. Of course, the aperture blades were the hardest part. This lens was more difficult than others I'd rebuilt because the holes for the rear blade pins were not drilled through. I was effectively blind and had no idea where the pins were in relation to their corresponding holes. But after several restarts and gentle, persistent coaxing two pins caught and then the rest quickly followed. I NEVER WANT TO DO THAT AGAIN!

[/url]image by Peter Jennings, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]image by Peter Jennings, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]image by Peter Jennings, on Flickr[/IMG]



But now the lens is together and it works great. I don't need two copies of this lens, so this one will be going up for sale soon, or PM me if you're interested.

Peter,

The shots you posted are intimidating. Does not look so simple to me. Seems like a great amount of care is needed and one mistake would be kinda tragic. Much appreciation for having skill on your part. I don't think just anyone could do what you have done.

On my LTM there is a good amount of play front to back along the central axis of the lens with the aperture ring. The click stops are firm, but front to back there is some play. My lens always had this slight amount of play. IYHO is this normal?

The performance on my 35/1.8 Nikkor in LTM is not effected by this play, just wondering if this is normal on 35/1.8's, or maybe just something on LTM versions?

Cal