Walmart and b&w film processing

David_Manning

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I know many have been pleasantly surprised at the different film services Walmart has been able to provide in their send-out envelope service.

I'm wondering if anyone has had good luck trying to get true silver b&w processed, ie. Tri-x?

My last local pro lab is just KILLING me with their price increases. I've processed it myself, but my processing has ZERO consistency and usually golfball-sized grain.

Any other suggestions?
 
David
Tri-X in D76 is not rocket science.
In fact, that's what I like about this film: it's very tolerant to reasonable variability in exposure and processing.
I will be happy to help you to reach a good process if you want to try it again...
 
It takes me longer to develop my own than to drive to any processor, and Walmart is only 12-15 minutes away. Maybe you are not particular about the development but I am; and I couldn't get anyone local to do right, at any price.
 
I've used Walmart quite a bit for processing...35mm, 120, slide, c41, b&w (incliuding Tri-X and Neopan).

They send all of the sendout film to Fuji labs, so it's good. I've never had any problems.
 
My Walmart develops 120 film (negative) for 84 cents + tax of ? cents to come out at 91 cents a roll. 10 days wait toget the film back and sleeved by Fuji ...
 
I'm sure this has been answered dozens of times before, but how long does it take to dev your own film? I'm getting it dev'd at a local lab, mainly because I figure it would take too long to do it myself.
 
I'm sure this has been answered dozens of times before, but how long does it take to dev your own film? I'm getting it dev'd at a local lab, mainly because I figure it would take too long to do it myself.

Start to wash and hanging; it is 28 minutes for TMAX400 or TRIX. But then it hangs in a closet for over an hour. After that I cut it and put it in print files (dry). After a couple of days they are flat (pressed) and ready. But more important I get exactly what I want.
 
I'm sure this has been answered dozens of times before, but how long does it take to dev your own film? I'm getting it dev'd at a local lab, mainly because I figure it would take too long to do it myself.

About 30 minutes, much of that waiting (ie: read a book, watch tv, listen to the radio and relax). I'm pretty sure it takes you longer to drive there than it would to develop your own film.
 
If you want a roll once in a while, maybe walmart is better.
I wait until I have a batch.
I have three five rolls patersons. I preload all of them, and process one after the other. The house is unusable for the evening, but I can process 15 films in a couple of hours.
Scanning is another story...
 
I do 35mm E6 at Walmart. Excellent service and price. I've also done 120 in E6 (good, but rolled up) and C41 (well-done and cheap). I used to do Kodachrome there, but as we have heard it's about to end.
 
David

The consistency will come with practice. If u have an iPhone, there is an app call dev chart. It not only gives all the correct times for developers but gives u timers for all the steps from developer, stop, fixer, washing...etc. Even has a function to adjust development time based on temperature of your developer.

I basically develop my own b&w from 35mm to 4x5. Color is only thing I send out.

Gary
 
I've processed it myself, but my processing has ZERO consistency and usually golfball-sized grain.

Any other suggestions?

In the Netherlands there is something called the HEMA department store. Of course they do send it out (like Walmart) but everything they do (35mm or 120, E6, C41, BW) is very good.

But despite my own inconsistency, I still develop my own BW. Expecially because I want to, but also because I can easily push and pull. I have to admit that since I do my own printing (a.k.a since a few weeks) I can get pretty frustrated by my own poorly developed (older) negs, but hey, that makes it more of a challenge to make a decent print 😉
 
Thanks everyone for the replies.

I was developing my own Tri-X, but getting very grainy results. I was using HC-110 for fairly short development times, so maybe using a more diluted mixture and longer development will produce better results.

Regardless of my own developing deficiencies, I'm still interested in sending Tri-X out at Walmart. Many replies state they took it no problem, but I just want to confirm that it was NOT c-41 b&w. I guess I could just send a quick test roll in and see what happens.

Thanks again for the replies.

----David.
 
HC110 is tricky, and I've just given up on it. For the time being anyway. When it works, it's wonderful, when it doesn't, I have a lot of dark negs from too much agitation, or no shadow detail because of some other variable. D76 (1:1) has been pretty reliable.

What's the water temp like in TX? It's something I struggle with here in California, although it's easy to maintain the temperature now that it's winter.
 
I find that in order to maintain stable temperature, the larger and deeper the water bath the better. Also letting the bottles of chemistry sit for a while helps a lot.

Gary
 
I never tried sending B&W via Walmart. Good to know that some got their film back developed, not bleached 🙂

I develop B&W myself, but sending to Walmart may be the ticket for some rolls that have accumulated over time in my drawer. So two weeks wait will not matter especially if it's still cheap compared to local pro labs (who *unwisely* charge too much).

I wonder if I can write "Rodinal 1+50 12min." on the Walmart envelope 😀
 
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I used Walmart/Sam's Club, can't remember which. The film all went to the same place regardless of origin. Long story short: Never again. I resurrected my B&W developing routine after 30 odd years. The B&W processing was that bad. Color is great. B&W NOT!
Do it yourself. Most of us started with D-76. I switched to Xtol 1:3 when I emerged from the Black Hole in 2006. From Harrison Tent to hanging wet negatives in the bathroom takes about an hour. 4 hours to dry. Depending on the film, I can scan at that point. Some film needs to be pressed in sleeves for a few days.
 
ps: My condolences on trying to develop film in the summer (9 months long) in Texas. I am about to give up during the summer or switch to 2 bath Pyrocat-MC which is temperature independant.
 
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