What are your Fuji G 6x9 dream items?

Dante_Stella said:
Jchrome - I actually had the chrome one made (why I'm keeping it), so I haven't had time to brass it yet. Considering it's done with motorcycle-style chrome, I'll probably wear out before it does. Also, don't try this at home; the heat of real plating can really damage the covers, and these had to be straightened quite a bit. I also lost two cameras worth of covers in the process (hence the parts unit I have...). I studied the GL690 for this project, but they are too expensive to use for that.

Otherwise, I am pretty indifferent. The one thing I like better about the BLs is that the initial wind-on requires a lot less leader. The VF is also a little wider in view, and you get a dark-slide indicator (for what it's worth).

Thanks for the kind words on the writeups - I still have to do the 150mm, which has been on my plate for a while.

Best,
Dante

g690chrome.jpg
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That chrome prototype is beautiful!

I prefer the early Norita 66 and Warner 66 to the later Graflex Norita 66 because of a similar look.

Texsport
 
The 50 would be nice, but like others have said, it's so damned expensive. Especially when the Mamiya Press equivalent is a couple hundred dollars, and I've also got that system.

I wouldn't mind the auto-up for my 100/3.5 AE. The darkslide in my 670 body is so fussy (snappy, but gets stuck closed) that I wouldn't chance swapping lenses mid-roll anyway.
 
hamradio said:
I wouldn't mind the auto-up for my 100/3.5 AE. The darkslide in my 670 body is so fussy (snappy, but gets stuck closed) that I wouldn't chance swapping lenses mid-roll anyway.
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Have you tried not putting any pressure at all on the back? That makes a lot of difference with my 670. If I put my fingers anywhere on the back it doesn't open completely. If I hold it at the lens and then release the darkslide it opens completely.
 
Hrm, I haven't tried that, but will keep it in mind next time it gets stuck. For some reason or another, it just doesn't like to spring back if it has been closed and left that way...but if I wind it up to the point just before it latches and let it go, it snaps open like it's new.
 
hamradio said:
Hrm, I haven't tried that, but will keep it in mind next time it gets stuck. For some reason or another, it just doesn't like to spring back if it has been closed and left that way...but if I wind it up to the point just before it latches and let it go, it snaps open like it's new.
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I suspect this is a common problem. I took my 690BL to Nippon Photo Clinic because the shutter wouldn't fire and they claimed it was because the curtain wouldn't come back all the way. They said lubrication was the ticket to making it work better.

I just finesse it back open now.


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JChrome said:
I suspect this is a common problem. I took my 690BL to Nippon Photo Clinic because the shutter wouldn't fire and they claimed it was because the curtain wouldn't come back all the way. They said lubrication was the ticket to making it work better.

I just finesse it back open now.


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What you really need is an extra G690BL body so you don't have to futz with dark slides. Right?

My extra body has a weird delay-action opening. The trick with dark slides is that if they don't snap open is to REWIND them to closed and then re-release rather than trying to use the knob to push them along in the direction of opening. Pushing them forward can wreck a weak one. BTW, Easterwood once told me how much work it is to adjust one of these dark slides - essentially you have to disassemble the whole front standard and then realign everything.

D
 
^^ My take on reasonable would be half of the going ebay asking price , which is still
more than I paid for my Mamiya 7 50mm lens ! Peter
 
Supply and Demand have to meet somewhere.

Of course, relative to the other Fuji lenses out there, the 50 is by far the pack leader which is why it takes people by surprise.

If any of the Zeiss glass for the Hasselblads was priced that way, most people wouldn't bat an eye.


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I think I've hit on why the GW series has the noise it has.

I posted this to the Camerapedia article:

'When tripping the shutter, the noise is curiously loud for a camera with a leaf shutter. Some mistakenly blame the odometer on the bottom of the camera (which is a falsehood that has spread far across the web). However, it was discovered that the noise is not due to the shutter nor the odometer, but rather to the winding mechanism and it's linkage with the shutter.[8]

With 'normal' leaf shutters (such as the Copal or Seiko shutters for large format lenses), the winding mechanism and the power storage is contained within the shutter. For the GW690 series, Fuji moved the power storage (specifically a spring which contains the power to actuate the shutter) from within the lens body to within the top plate of the camera body. The vibration from the release of the shutter causes a 'hum'.

As expected, the interchangeable lens G/BL/GL models do not have this shutter noise due to the power storage and release residing within the lens body.'
 
Well. sounds like an

Well. sounds like an

Corran said:
50mm f/5.6 for a reasonable price........
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OXYMORON to me?

Easier to find a 50 for the Mamiya Press, for a bit better price. I enjoyed the Mamiya Universal for a while and the 100 f2.8, the 75mm, and the 50mm were all great lenses.

Mamiya Sekor glass is pretty close to IQ of Fujinon, but the EBC on the GW camera's a bit better.
 
JChrome said:
I think I've hit on why the GW series has the noise it has.

I posted this to the Camerapedia article:

'When tripping the shutter, the noise is curiously loud for a camera with a leaf shutter. Some mistakenly blame the odometer on the bottom of the camera (which is a falsehood that has spread far across the web). However, it was discovered that the noise is not due to the shutter nor the odometer, but rather to the winding mechanism and it's linkage with the shutter.[8]

With 'normal' leaf shutters (such as the Copal or Seiko shutters for large format lenses), the winding mechanism and the power storage is contained within the shutter. For the GW690 series, Fuji moved the power storage (specifically a spring which contains the power to actuate the shutter) from within the lens body to within the top plate of the camera body. The vibration from the release of the shutter causes a 'hum'.

As expected, the interchangeable lens G/BL/GL models do not have this shutter noise due to the power storage and release residing within the lens body.'
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What's the reference for that? I've never heard of a leaf shutter whose source of power is that far from the point of actuation. I'll dig up my GSW690III service manual when I get home, but this sounds kind of weird.

Dante
 
Dante_Stella said:
What's the reference for that? I've never heard of a leaf shutter whose source of power is that far from the point of actuation. I'll dig up my GSW690III service manual when I get home, but this sounds kind of weird.

Dante
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I deduced it after looking at the interfaces between the shutters in the GW690 and the GL690.

The GL690 has a simple interface which just trips the shutter.

The GW690's interface is powering the shutter. There is a spring which retains the power in the top plate and then moves that flat gear which then interfaces with the shutter in the lens.

Why would Fuji need that spring and gear if the power wasn't stored there? They could've just actuated it in the same fashion as the G/BL/GL series.
 
JChrome said:
The GW690's interface is powering the shutter.
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Nonsense. I've had that shutter out of the lens for repair - it is a perfectly normal Seiko Copal, as used by Mamiya as well, driven by its internal spring.

Personally I have come to suspect that the noise was intentionally built into the cameras, as a audible feedback to the subjects. It is hard to imagine a technical reason not to dampen the springs and rods, when most medium format cameras with much heavier and faster moving components did do so...
 
I could be wrong. But if I am, I am completely baffled as to why they built a power mechanism in the top plate.

But look, the reason the sound is there is because there is a release in the top plate and a flat gear shooting across to actuate the shutter. I don't think there's a debate about that. Now the question is, is that what powers the shutter? Or does that just actuate a release within the shutter which has it's own power?

Come to think of it - it can be proven by the winding mechanism.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCUvAK6dmks

If someone wants to take it a part, not* wind the shutter, but then release the shutter in the normal fashion (with the gears meshing), then if the shutter releases as expected, it would prove me correct (because how else would one wind the shutter?). If the shutter doesn't release, then it is powered within the lens.
 
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