What can I do next time to avoid this disaster?

[cp_ste.croix]

Ok, so I just got my lovely new M6 and a new scanner (nikon v-ed) and decided that I should get some chemistry as well.


The following are my disasterous results. Images have only been resized, other than that, that's the way they came out of the scanner.

Can they be saved? Can my next roll be saved? I'm coming to the realization that I don't know what I'm doing.

 

[cp_ste.croix]

excuse the psd file ext. I have no idea what all the estensions are and didn't know that a tiff file wasn't valid here and that I couldn't change it into anything other than a psd file without re-scanning it, which would take me forever.

In all honesty, after spending so much time looking forward to seeing my results, I'm more than a little depressed and frustrated right now.

 

[foto_fool]

Relax and take a breath. Have a scotch. The tonality and detail in your scan are great. The developing went fine. Lose the squeegee tongs and do your final rinse in PhotoFlo. Dry overnight before cutting your strips. Books? So 20th century. Google what you want to know and take everything you find together and with a grain of salt. BTW - online posts here work well at 800 pixels on the longest side. You can crop/resize image to a pixel size in Photoshop, or to 6"x4" and 133 pixels per inch.

- John

 

[Keith]

I think you're being a little hard on yourself ... I don't see a disaster I just see early results at the beginning of a fairly difficult learning process. I've only been developing my own film for a couple of months and have probably processed twenty or so rolls and I'm only just now starting to get consistent results ... scanning included.

I've asked a lot of questions on this forum and always get helpful and understanding advice and you'll find it no different ... don't be disheartened.

When it all clicks and you get it right it's a wonderful feeling ... you'll be over the moon! 🙂

 

[Bryce]

Scratches- can be caused by a list of things. Using a squeegee or your fingers to remove water droplets are possible. Also, some plastic sleeves have been known to cause scratches like the one in your first image.
Water marks- caused by water droplets drying on the film. In order to leave a mark like that the water must contain minerals that are left behind when the water has evaporated. Using distilled water for the final rinse eliminates this risk.
.PSD files- Not generally recommended for internet use because they are relatively large and are not universally compatible with all software. To convert to .JPG files in Photoshop, first make sure you have an 8 bit rgb file. You can find these under Image> Mode. Then, when saving the file you'll have to select .JPG as the file type.
All things photography (and other hands on activities) involve trial and error. Everyone has to learn, one mistake at a time. Don't become frustrated, it isn't hard- just persist and you'll get better and better!

 

[kuzano]

Quit beating yourself up....

Quit beating yourself up....

You are just the victim of a recurring human condition. Trying too much new all at once. New camera, new scanner, new processing... it can be overwhelming when you take all that on at once. The picture is actually quite nice, good tonality, good focus AND the streak could not have happened in the camera. Not straight enough.

I'd suggest you back off a bit... You know the old saying:

How do you eat an elephant?
One bite at a time.

If you are concerned about that picture, break the tasks down. Shoot a roll of film and have it commercially processed. Then scan it and see what happens. If you still have a problem (which I doubt), then look at the scanning. However, remember that the film goes very straight through the camera and the scan mechanism on the scanner is on parallel and very straight tracks.

I know a lot of people on this board process film. I tried it 40 years ago.. hated it. All my film goes to professional processors. I don't really pay much more than the 1 hour places, although there is ONE good big box store processor here in town. I also know I don't pay any more than the equipment and chemicals to home process, not to mention the time value placed on time in the darkroom.

 

[jbf]

Hey now, I gotta say there is nothing wrong with your negatives asside from the obvious few scratches and some cleaning marks.

The highlights are a little blown out but that can easily be just the scanning workflow. 🙂

In reality I think it's a great personal portrait shot. As mentioned it has great tones from what I can tell, and the expression, etc is quite nice.

You really are being way too hard on yourself. These are great results for having done this for the first time! You shouldnt be depressed, you should be happy! 🙂


My first roll developed was EXTREMELY under exposed. Apparently the box of film I was using (given to me by someone else) was mis-marked. It was labeled as Fuji Neopan 400... In reality. It was Rollei 25 speed film. Haha!

Anyway, back to the subject at hand, just relax, you've gotten far better results than what i've seen from a lot of people on their first time.

Just keep shooting and developing and posting your results! 🙂

 

[cp_ste.croix]

Thanks guys...the morning finds me with recharged batteries, though yesterday was a little dark.

I should get some photoflow, the guy at the store where I purchased my kit told me I didn't need it. I'll also dump the squeegee and drip dry.

There are other negs (the psd one is one) where the negative looks like it has weird light blotches that almost look like fingerprints. Could this be from spooling the film with my hands? Should I be wearing surgical gloves to avoid getting oils on the film?

Generally I'm happy with exposures, and for the most part, focus. So that's something. Also, I'm not sure Ilfosol was the best choice for Tri-x, as my reading on the internet have seemed to confirm that it's tough on med fast film.

 

[hans voralberg]

Yep, wear gloves. Help with your skin too. And those are just scratched negs, be careful next time

 

[foto_fool]

There are other negs (the psd one is one) where the negative looks like it has weird light blotches that almost look like fingerprints. Could this be from spooling the film with my hands? Should I be wearing surgical gloves to avoid getting oils on the film?

Generally I'm happy with exposures, and for the most part, focus. So that's something. Also, I'm not sure Ilfosol was the best choice for Tri-x, as my reading on the internet have seemed to confirm that it's tough on med fast film.

I have not shot Tri-X in forever and when I did I developed with D-76. But I have not been pleased with the results with other 400 speed films in Ilfosol (APX particularly) though HP5+ turned out OK. Efke 50 in Ilfosol is sweet. I'm using Ilfotec DDX for 400 and faster and really liking it.

The point is debatable but I like using fixer with hardener, especially with Efke, Foma and Forte emulsions. These negs scratch easily.

I stopped wearing gloves - latex or plastic stick to the acetate and I lose too much feel with the thin cotton "dustless" type. Your results may vary. I do wash my hands with strong soap before I handle film and don't eat or drink in the timiing breaks - try to keep my fingers oil-free.

Most of the fingerprints I get on negs comes from getting impatient about lining them up in the scanner carrier and touching the surface.

- John

 

[Tom A]

Chris, also remember that we currently have a running mudbath coming out of our taps! My darkroom has been down for 2 weeks due to the City of Vancouvers inability to filter its water! If I develop films, they can be used as 000 sandpaper!
As for choise of developer, go for something higly standardized (D 76/ID 11) or make your own and match the film to it. One of my favourites is the PCK formula from Patrick Gainer. This is an ascorbic acid (vit C) based developer and it works well with Tri X and gives a slightly tighter grain than D 76. I do recommmend Photo Flo as a last bath as it will reduce drying spots.
I am also a great believer in stuff like divided D76 (keeps the highlights under control) or Steve Anchells Td 201. The important "bible" for all of this is "The Film Developing Cook Book".
Let me know when you are ready to "do your own" and as I am getting to a point where I am going to have to re-order some raw chemicals, we can do it in one shot.
How is the 90 working out?

 

[cp_ste.croix]

From what I can see the 90 is working great! I like the 50 as well. Honestly, given my skill set, most lenses are going to out perform me/my scanning/my developing anyways. Hopefully my 35 will arrive this week.

Tom, I'm probably willing to order chems in the new year, and I will try and find the cookbook this coming weekend.

Luckily for me, I'm off as of the end of this week so I'll get out shooting some more and stop by next Teusday for some tea and pie.