What developer for Tri-X 400@250

[Rhodes]

Used today a roll of tri-x at 250 iso. Have rodinal, x-tol and t-max as developers now. What could be best for this film with this iso?

 

[Bill Clark]

Take a peek here:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

I've printed quite a few pages!

Hope it helps you.

 

[Nigel Meaby]

Of the three, I would say X-tol. You could also take a look at the combinations here http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php


EDIT: Beat me to it Bill! 🙂

 

[filmfan]

XTOL (if you want clean) or Rodinal (if you like grain).

 

[Rhodes]

XTOL (if you want clean) or Rodinal (if you like grain).

Both I guess. May have to flip a coin to decide. 😉

 

[John Bragg]

T-max should be great at that speed. My personal choice is HC-110 at dution H but you don't have it in your inventory.

 

[goffer]

I've used Tmax, XTOL and rodinal with Tri-X, both pushed and pulled, and always preferred XTOL's results. It was a nice median... not too clean, not too grainy. But if it's grain you are after, rodinal.

 

[charjohncarter]

HC-110h at 11:15, 30 seconds initial agitation, then 3 inversions at 10, 7, 4, 1, 68 degrees F (20 degrees C). But be sure you use 250 or 200 EI in bright scenes or 400 in open shade or overcast.

same roll overcast at 400:

and 250 early morning full sun:

But you can do it with any old developer, I just happen to use HC-110.

 

[Brian Legge]

Rodinal 1:50 for 10 minutes works nicely. Great tonality at ei 200-250. It can be slightly grainy in 35mm but is great in 120:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/6138703239

 

[charjohncarter]

Rodinal 1:50 for 10 minutes works nicely. Great tonality at ei 200-250. It can be slightly grainy in 35mm but is great in 120:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/6138703239

I also use Rodinal it is just fine, but maybe like you I don't like the grain in 35mm. Any fine or semi fine grain developer is OK for 35mm, and for me Rodinal is just as good 120. But that is just my preference.

 

[Rob-F]

If you shot Tri-X at 250, you must be looking to increase shadow detail. So I would not use Rodinal. I think XTOL would be my first choice.

 

[charjohncarter]

If you shot Tri-X at 250, you must be looking to increase shadow detail. So I would not use Rodinal. I think XTOL would be my first choice.

If you meter correctly any developer will work for shadows. It is true that Rodinal losses speed as does HC-110 (but less), so you have to adjust for these differences in developers. Or for that matter any developer you choose to use.

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

do a Ralph Gibson special,
over-exposed at ei 100-250
over develop in rodinal
at 1+25 and 11mins @ 68F
what you will get is a rich negative
very suitable for dodging and burning
in the darkroom or in PS.

raytoei

this is my interpretation,
ei 200, in rodinal, grains
are exaggerated due to the
higher temp.

 

[Rob-F]

If you meter correctly any developer will work for shadows. It is true that Rodinal losses speed as does HC-110 (but less), so you have to adjust for these differences in developers. Or for that matter any developer you choose to use.

Yeah, but he already shot this roll. So as far as adjusting the exposure, that train has already left the station.

 

[Tom A]

You could try this combination: Xtol 1:4 with Rodinal 1:100 (basially mix up the Rodinal 1:100 and add the Xtol 1:4 to it). Time 11 min with agitation every 60 sec.
TriX/Nikon SP/ Nikkor 35f1.8.

 

[charjohncarter]

Yeah, but he already shot this roll. So as far as adjusting the exposure, that train has already left the station.

But the OP did ask what to do. And I said any developer would work, but shadow detail will depend on EI that you use. So learn to meter and then adjust your developer (time, temp, agitation) for TRIX. And you will probably have a few more trains leaving the station before you are totally satisfied.

I believe Roger Hicks on his site has a good section on metering.

 

[Rhodes]

The area of the shooting was a saline/saltern area, with a lot of migratory birds/marine birds. The weather was overcast, with periods of sun, the reason that I meter at 250 and not 400. So it will have a good or great contrast.

Tom A. are you refering to this: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html? Once try this once with a 120 film.

 

[Rangefinderfreak]

You could try this combination: Xtol 1:4 with Rodinal 1:100 (basially mix up the Rodinal 1:100 and add the Xtol 1:4 to it). Time 11 min with agitation every 60 sec.
TriX/Nikon SP/ Nikkor 35f1.8.

I agree with Tom ! My favourite for TRI-X, Double-X ( Eastman 5222) and maco RPX-400 ( great new film !) is a similar combination as Tom`s but with HC-110 and Rodinal: For one litre tank equal amounts of both: 15cc of HC-110 and 15cc rodinal concentrate. development for normal contrast (400 iso) is 11 minutes, for 200 asa and lower contrast go with 8 minutes, but ALWAYS test before important work. Final density/ graduation is a matter of taste, style, scanner or analog wet printing etc...