hans voralberg
Veteran
I'll chime in and say DDX is a very versatile developer and quite easy to mix as it's liquid 😉
What developer for Tri-X/HP5/Neopan 400
- Thread starter swmlon
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 26
- Views 5K
oscroft
Veteran
For fast films (inc Tri-X, HP5 and Neopan) I'm using nothing but HC-110 these days.
It has the convenience of being a liquid concentrate with a long shelf life (and a long fridge life when opened), and I really like the results I get from it.
In use, I find the thick syrup in small quantities quite tricky to measure accurately (even with a syringe), so I dilute some to the "European concentrate" strength (100ml syrup plus 320ml water) and then work from that.
It has the convenience of being a liquid concentrate with a long shelf life (and a long fridge life when opened), and I really like the results I get from it.
In use, I find the thick syrup in small quantities quite tricky to measure accurately (even with a syringe), so I dilute some to the "European concentrate" strength (100ml syrup plus 320ml water) and then work from that.
mr_phillip
Well-known
Lots of sensible recommendations here. I like Tri-X and HP5+ in HC-110, but Neopan 400 not so much. Although HC-110 generally isn't all that great for pushing films, it'll happily take Tr-X to 1600 and HP5 up to 800 with good results. As a bonus it's easy to store and mix, and lasts more or less forever.
My other recommendation would be XTOL - ideal for pushing, great for sharpness and tonality (you get better acutance at 1+3 than 1+1 if that's a priority). The only downside with XTOL is that it comes in five litre packs only, and (although it lasts better now than it used to when first launched) when it dies it does so with no visual indication.
My other recommendation would be XTOL - ideal for pushing, great for sharpness and tonality (you get better acutance at 1+3 than 1+1 if that's a priority). The only downside with XTOL is that it comes in five litre packs only, and (although it lasts better now than it used to when first launched) when it dies it does so with no visual indication.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Ilford DDX is my poison of choice.
But Xtol is also great
D76 is the workhorse of the industry, delivers good results
But Xtol is also great
D76 is the workhorse of the industry, delivers good results
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Dial thermometers are not always accurate straight out of the box. There's usually a nut under the dial that you can turn to adjust it, but you'll need a laboratory grade mercury thermometer to compare it to. It used to be common to have both because the dial thermometer is faster reacting.
Once you've found the time and temperature that gives you the type of negative you like, and the manufactures suggestions are only suggestions, always use the same thermometer. If it's off when you do your testing it should be off the same amount in the future.
Always measure and mix your chemistry in THE SAME beakers. I use cheap measuring cups from the dollar store. Last time I got a set of three for a buck. I checked them and they're not accurate. When I'm measuring 1:1 I first put the developer in a measuring cup, pour that into a larger cup, then put water in the first cup up to the same line as I used to measure the developer. When I mix the two together it's exactly 1:1.
Once you've found the time and temperature that gives you the type of negative you like, and the manufactures suggestions are only suggestions, always use the same thermometer. If it's off when you do your testing it should be off the same amount in the future.
Always measure and mix your chemistry in THE SAME beakers. I use cheap measuring cups from the dollar store. Last time I got a set of three for a buck. I checked them and they're not accurate. When I'm measuring 1:1 I first put the developer in a measuring cup, pour that into a larger cup, then put water in the first cup up to the same line as I used to measure the developer. When I mix the two together it's exactly 1:1.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Every devloper will work with Trix so find one you like to mix, use, and store. Then find your film speed and developer time. Barry Thornton's site has two long articles on determining film speed and development times. I made a simplified version that I have used and that can be done on every roll of film. If you are interested personal message me.
MichiganBill
Member
I would second maddoc's suggestion. Pick one film and one developer, and do 10 rolls or so before trying another. Write down the developing time, temp, and agitation on the negative sleeve for each roll. Once you get an idea of what you like or dislike about the combination, you can vary it and try other combinations. With experience you'll find a film and developer which express what you want in your photos. Eventually you'll be able to vary time/agitation/developer to achieve your goals. It'll be better than sliced bread, even! (Do post your photos, too!)
Similar threads
- Article
