What have you just BOUGHT?

[Malcolm M]

Eyepiece for Nikon F.

I took my F to the West Yorkshire Cameras coffee morning a couple of weeks ago, and it was dreadful. (The camera, not the coffee). It was impossible to focus on the ground class. Everything went from very blurry via moderately blurry back to very blurry.

Then I came across this on eBay. It’s some sort of solution, but by no means complete. It’s supposed to run from -1.5 to +3.5 dioptres, but by my reckoning it only makes +1 dioptre max. This is OK, because (a) it’s what I want, and (b) it stays in position jammed against its limit. For intermediate positions, it really needs a locking screw, click stops or more friction.

The bigger problem is that it magnifies the focussing screen about 50%, which means you can’t readily see, without squinting round corners, either the ends of the screen or the meter needle above. The latter would be more of an issue if the meter actually worked.

Conclusion- it’s some use, but the search for a proper correction lens continues.

 

[Dralowid]

View attachment 4874154View attachment 4874155

Eyepiece for Nikon F.

I took my F to the West Yorkshire Cameras coffee morning a couple of weeks ago, and it was dreadful. (The camera, not the coffee). It was impossible to focus on the ground class. Everything went from very blurry via moderately blurry back to very blurry.

Then I came across this on eBay. It’s some sort of solution, but by no means complete. It’s supposed to run from -1.5 to +3.5 dioptres, but by my reckoning it only makes +1 dioptre max. This is OK, because (a) it’s what I want, and (b) it stays in position jammed against its limit. For intermediate positions, it really needs a locking screw, click stops or more friction.

The bigger problem is that it magnifies the focussing screen about 50%, which means you can’t readily see, without squinting round corners, either the ends of the screen or the meter needle above. The latter would be more of an issue if the meter actually worked.

Conclusion- it’s some use, but the search for a proper correction lens continues.

Have you tried experimenting by chopping up an old pair of glasses? It was an ugly but satisfactory solution on an old Leicaflex.

The plan was too see that it could be done then buy a plastic pair of specs from the optician to my latest prescription...on the assumption that plastic would be easier to cut.

Never got round to it.

 

[Alpsman]

Have you tried experimenting by chopping up an old pair of glasses? It was an ugly but satisfactory solution on an old Leicaflex.

The plan was too see that it could be done then buy a plastic pair of specs from the optician to my latest prescription...on the assumption that plastic would be easier to cut.

Never got round to it.

I did IT with an old pair of glasses and made a threaded ring for 3D-printing with a recess for the cutout lens.

Nikon Augenkorrekturlinse; Nikon eye piece correction lens by blechbude | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Download 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

 

[Alpsman]

The flesh is weak, so is the mind.
Bajonet is for the Nikon F2 and with adapter for Nikon Rangefinder also.

 

[Malcolm M]

The two Retinas bought at Flints have arrived, via an air-lift to Edinburgh (don’t ask).



The 119 is a little battered around the edges, but it is pushing 90 years old, and the shutter sounds very slightly slow (I think 1/25th and 1/50th should sound instantaneous). Maybe a test film is required. The lens appears clean, I can see no holes in the bellows, and the viewfinder is very slightly hazy (but nothing like the crystal clarity of early Leicas). Came with case and lens hood. Should be good for the intended use as a lend-out for Forties weekends.



The 1a doesn’t work, as described. I was briefly excited to discover there was a film in it, but judging from the amount of rewinding it was unused, and it was Fujicolour rather than FP2.



I want the shutter release lever for my Compur Leica, and hope that the Heath Robinson connection to the camera-top release doesn’t get in the way.

 

[shawn]

This body just arrived. Unfortunately, the high speed shutter timings are off. 1/250 is shooting at 1/188, 1/500 at 1/109, 1/1000 at 1/534 and 1/2000 at 1/971. Waiting to hear back from the seller.

View attachment 4870517

As an update on this, National Camera Exchange followed through with their warranty. They sent the camera to DAG and I just got it back. It is much better now and very consistent over 5 trials per shutter speed.

1 second = 1/0.94 with every trial being 0.93 or 0.94.
1/2 second =1/1.76 with 0.04 difference
1/4 second =1/3.82
1/8 =1/8.24
1/15 = 1/15.0 (everything either 14.9 or 15)
1/30 = 1/30.6
1/60 = 1/59.8
1/125 = 1/119 (everything either 118 or 119)
1/250 = 1/206 (was 1/188 before service)
1/500 = 1/387 (was 1/109 before service)
1/1000 = 1/1008 (was 1/534 before service)
1/2000 =1/2732 (was 1/971 before service)

The 2000th is a little fast but only by about a 1/3 of a stop. Much better than it was before by overexposing a stop or 1/500 being almost 2 stops overexposed.

 

[Jbennett68]

Rollei 35. Very clean body. I’ve got some adapters for 675 batteries on the way and I’ll see if the meter works.

 

[Jbennett68]

Rollei 35. Very clean body. I’ve got some adapters for 675 batteries on the way and I’ll see if the meter works. View attachment 4874275View attachment 4874276

Why do my images keep posting sideways?

 

[Ken Ford]

Why do my images keep posting sideways?

Are you vacationing on the equator?

 

[Rayt]

135 format film from Freestyle:

8 x Aristapan 100
8 x Arista Ultra Edu 200
10 x Kodak Portra 400

500ml Rodinal

 

[Jbennett68]

Are you vacationing on the equator?

Like I could afford a vacation. Have you seen how often I post in this thread?

 

[Muggins]

Last weekend I bought an Isolette II which, wonderful to relate, has neither lingerie instead of bellows nor green grease! I've been after one for years to go with my Kershaw 450, which I'm convinced is an Isolette knock-off. It's not particularly high spec the Apotar lens with a 4-speed Pronto shutter, but I'm looking forward to it reaching the front of the queue to play with:

 

[serif]

Got this Samoca 35LE a couple days ago for about $2.



There were signs of previous attempts at servicing, the most obvious being stripped screws, scratches around the front lens area and on the top cover, and a completely non-existing rangefinder patch. The lens was very loose, and the light meter cover was also bent.

Opening up the camera was easy, and it revealed the reason why rangefinder patch was missing. Someone tried to clean up the viewfinder area, including the beamsplitter:



I mean, the viewfinder was clear, but also unusable.

Fortunately i had the remains of a Canonet 28 in my parts bin, checked its rangefinder mechanism quickly, and while their beamsplitter sizes don't match exactly, i was able to fit it in the Samoca. Replaced the torn paper cover, fixed the loose lens, adjusted infinity to match the scale on the lens, and adjusted the rangefinder too. The lightmeter needed a slight adjustment too, which is really easy on this model -- while it doesn't seem to be really precise, it'll be good enough for B&W.

Shutter speeds from 1/5 to 1/300 feel right (although i haven't tested yet how accurate they are), 1 and 1/2sec are sticky, behaving like B. Not sure i can do anything about it, not confident enough to take apart the shutter, and i don't really plan using those times anyways.

The lens seems clean, shutter is soft and silent, and the viewfinder is surprisingly bright! I'll try and shoot a roll with it, and may order a nice new beamsplitter if i like it.