Selmer Mk VI's are selling for crazy money today! It is just like what's happening with the Leica M6.
The father of a friend of mine traded an alto and a tenor Mk VI. Although he'd had them and played them since the 1950's, they were stll in amazingly good cosmetic and playing condition. He traded them simply because he wanted something different. The saxes he traded them for, which were new, were worth about 1/10th the value of the Selmers. He just didn't know. Needless to say, those Selmers were sold the very next day. I wish I'd known he was going to do that - I'd have offered him fair market value.
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I no pretty sure I bought mine in 1965. The story at that time was they weren’t as good as the earlier pre Vietnam way models because all the good brass was going into making artillery and rifle brass. Now the 60’s vintage are considered some of the best.
I bought mine from Manny’s in NYC. I think I paid something on the order of $450 for the tenor and a bit less for the alto. A year or so ago I saw a couple of clean 60’s vintage for $20K+. Not even considering the value I wish I’d kept playing.
I always had great luck with 231/HP38 in 45acp. I used it as pretty much a universal powder until I started reducing loads. I shoot a lot of snub nose 38’s and started using Berrys 125 flat nose and a minimum load of 231 as per Hogdons. I had several incomplete detonations or squibs due to failure to ignite the powder. I caught it and didn’t fire a second round but on analyzing what happened, the primer detonated but didn’t ignite the powder. The bullet almost made it out but the powder remained in the barrel si I know it had powder. I’m very careful and in 40 years never had a true squib. Anyway it happened again in another revolver so I thought I need to crimp a little tighter. You have to be careful with plated bullets so as not to damage the plating and get separation from the core.
The tighter crimp didn’t help. I then tested several shots with the powder in the rear of the case and chronographed them. The detonated clean and consistent. Then positioning the gun forward shaking the powder to the front of the case my velocity was 200+ fps slower indicating a severe position sensitivity in light loads and light bullets.
I tested again with 158 RNFP polymer coated and never had an issue.
I found N100NF to be similar to Bullseye and #2 close to 231 but no position sensitivity. Consistency is quite good and in light loads I find it much cleaner than 231.
I’m a big fan of light bullets and fast powders especially in short barrels. I feel there’s considerably less recoil and accuracy is high.
Some of the fun of shooting is coming up with that perfect combo for your specific gun. Most people don’t realize but ever barrel has its own personality and what work in one won’t in another.
I bought a Ruger Precision 22wmr a few years ago and did a lot of testing to find the right round. Accuracy at 100yds was all over the place with different manufacturers rounds until I tried Hornady VMax. Works great for me but probably not in another of the same make and model.
I’m not good enough to be a serious competitor but here’s a 5 shot group of the VMax at 100yds.
For those non shooters, you’re not good until you get 5 shots in one ragged hole. I’m working on it.