What is the best Nikon body for my AIS Nikkor 50mm 1.4?

[ishpop]

I've been using this lens (originally my dads) for years now on my Olympus E1 with an adapter. I love my Digital Zuiko glass, but this is my favorite lens!

So now that I am shooting 95% film for a few years, It's time to shoot film with what may be my all time favorite lens.

What is a good Nikon body to match with it?

I have many times considered getting an FM2n or FM3a based on various articles and such, but wanted your thoughts?

For reference, I very much enjoy my OM1n, in terms of form factor, so smaller is better.

 

[David Murphy]

F, FMm F2, Nikkormat FT, FS, FT2, FT3 - all my favorites, particularly the F. the FM2 is pretty good too and works with your lens, but not any NAI lenses.

 

[jja]

About the only manual-focus Nikon I wouldn't shoot with is the EM. Everything else is great, depending on your needs.

The FM/FE series are my favorite. FM, FE, FM2(N) FE2, and FM3a are all exactly the same size. I like the meter diodes on the FM/FM2 better than the match-needle meter on the FE/FE2/FM3a. Right now, I use an FM, and it is a joy.

 

[sevo]

Now that is entirely a matter of taste - provided that the bunny ears weren't removed, it will fit any F series body (though with a decline in ergonomics after the F4), any manual focus amateur body, all higher end AF amateur bodies, and pro digital bodies...

 

[ishpop]

What are your guys thoughts on using the Nikon F with a WLF?

 

[David Murphy]

The WLF is fine, but the hardcore F users seek out the non-metered prism. That setup is pure joy to use IMO. Expect to pay about $225 and up for this - the prisms dominate the cost. If you use a metering prism, it should be CLA'ed and battery converted to alkalines - don't waste time on any other approach. Most working camera techs know the F and F2 inside out and can do anything you need on Nikon gear at modest cost.

 

[Issy]

Fg

Fg

>For reference, I very much enjoy my OM1n, in terms of form factor, so smaller is better.

The FG would give you the same form factor, and Ap to boot.

Bill

 

[kxl]

I have both an FM3A and FM2N.

If you want AE, get the FM3A.

If you don't need AE, or if you're on a limited budget (FM3A prices as somewhat high), get an FM2N.

 

[Arvay]

F3HP I would choose if the weight is not critical
If you want lighter - FM2 (fully mech) or FE2/FA with priorities and even with matrix metering (FA)

 

[Benjamin Marks]

Go to KEH or another reputable used camera dealer. There are literally thousands of these high quality, durable machines out there.

Ben

 

[HarryW]

As has been said in earlier posts there's a lot to choose from.
Check out this site to get the extent of what is available to you
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/index.htm
I use an FA and an FT3 both very good - would like to try an F2 and an FM3a
Regards

Harry

 

[italy74]

My advice is, if you can afford it, get the FM3A, otherwise FM2

 

[migtex]

FM2/T or F3/T... if you can spend that much

 

[novum]

The body that already sports a NOCT.

 

[Pickett Wilson]

Another vote for the F3HP. Why pay more. Great camera.

 

[Calzone]

What are your guys thoughts on using the Nikon F with a WLF?

I just bought a DA-2 for my F3HP. The action finder, although differant has the same effect as the WLF in that it effects critical focusing in a bad way making it harder to focus. Seems that the enlarged image is magnified less. I'm not disappointed because for quick action it will serve its purpose.

Are you aware that the image will appear upside down and left and right will be inversed on a Nikon WLF? Not sure of your intended purpose? Street photograpy?

Confused? I'll explain by comparing the veiwfinders on my F2 and my F3 with HP viewfinder. The image on the HP viewfinder appears larger, but under dimm lighting it is easier and faster to focus on my F2. It is totally counterintuitive, but the enlarged image provided by the HP finder is dimmer because it is spread over a larger viewing area. The action finder exaggerates the effect of the HP. Of course this is not an issue with lots of light, but the F2 has a better viewfinder for low light.

I expect, that with a fast lens (F 1.4) you might be using it for low lighting and hand held photograpy. I would favor a F, or F2 over the newer Nikon professional cameras that all have adopted the HP style of viewing.

By way of explaination I would express that I perfer the Nikon Professional Cameras as being the F, F2, F3,F4,F5... all which display 100% of the image that will be exposed on the negitive.

Some of the non-professional cameras only display 92%. Right now there are a lot of old F's and F2's available because they have proven themselves durable and seem to never die. I wouldn't be so afraid of the size and weight. IMHO a heavy camera is a steady camera.

Calzone

 

[Steve Bellayr]

F3HP. The camera is rugged and ergonomically very comfortable. The removable prism is a major plus. For $89, approximately, you can add a motor drive.

 

[nikon_sam]

I have a Nikkor-O 35mm 2.0 (factory AI'd) lens mounted on a F5 and that combo works for me...Many other Nikon bodies have been mentioned...find the body that works for you...I believe that lens will work on all of them...
My 50mm 1.4's are mounted on a F2a and a FE...

 

[peter_n]

For reference, I very much enjoy my OM1n, in terms of form factor, so smaller is better.

FG, a wonderful little camera. Make sure you also get the little grip for it.

 

[ferider]

What did your father use ?