What is the best zoom lens for a Nikon F2?

[shorelineae]

Can you recommend a good zoom lens for use with a Nikon F2. Im interested in the 50-200 mm range. Of course, as light as possible, as cheap as possible - if possible haha.

Thank you.


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[maigo]

What is the best zoom lens for a Nikon F2?

Nikon Series E 75-150mm f3.5

520grams.

https://imaging.nikon.com/history/story/0042/index.htm

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/eserieslenses/htmls/36150mm.htm


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[markus_h_photography]

I'm with Maigo on this one. Very compact and lightweight. Image quality is EXCELLENT; a lot of those Ë"series lenses are absolute sleepers.

 

[ronnies]

If you can find a Nikkor 50-135mm f/3.5 they are very good (but quite scarce).

Ronnie

 

[shorelineae]

Nikon Series E 75-150mm f3.5

520grams.

Thanks for the reply. Sounds very good, very well reviewed, although focus creep seems to be a problem...

 

[narsuitus]

The Nikon F2 is my main 35mm film SLR. In my opinion, the best zoom in the 50-200mm range is the 80-200mm f/2.8.

When shooting in a hostile environment, I use the inexpensive 75-150mm f/3.5 Series E mounted on the inexpensive Nikon EM as a substitute for the more expensive 80-200mm f/2.8 mounted on a Nikon F2.

When I need a lightweight and inexpensive telephoto zoom on my F2, I will mount the 75-150 on my F2.


Nikon Zooms by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[presspass]

The obvious answer is the 80-200 f4.5, second version. Very light, very sharp, and inexpensive. The only down side is focus creep. With that lens, it's more of a focus race. Most are very loose and will slide easily unless you hold the zoom/focus ring. The other suggestions - the 75-150 and 50-135 are both excellent, but they don't reach the 200 range you were asking for. If you want a lens that doesn't creep, the above suggestion of a two-ring 80-200 AF lens is great. It is, however, much heavier than the 4.5.

 

[Tim Murphy]

Vivitar Series 1 lenses are nice

Vivitar Series 1 lenses are nice

Dear shorelineae,

If you will look at 3rd party lenses I've been able to find several Vivitar Series 1 lenses in various ranges like 28-105 and 70-210 for relatively short money. I've bought a few for as little as $9.99 plus shipping through Shopgoodwill auctions. An expensive one might run $ 20.00, but you usually get a hard case with the expensive ones. There are also 28-70 and 35-80 lenses that are a constant f2.8 aperture but they tend to go over the $ 50.00 mark. They are worth looking into in my opinion, especially since most versions I've found have been Nikon AI or AI-S mount and they can often be used on newer Nikon film and digital bodies.

Regards,
Tim Murphy
Harrisburg, PA 🙂

 

[Beemermark]

Better question is what is a bad telephoto zoom that I should shy away from. There are a ton of good Nikkor zooms and even some other brands.

 

[Pál_K]

Better question is what is a bad telephoto zoom that I should shy away from. There are a ton of good Nikkor zooms and even some other brands.

Two that have been disappointments to me are the 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 AIS and the 35-135mm f/3.5-4.5 AIS.

They just produce softer images than I'm used to.

The 28-85 vignettes badly at 28mm with the proper (!) hood. Its zoom operation is done by a ring, which I don't like as much as push-pull.

 

[AlwaysOnAuto]

If you really want to fly under the radar, look for a Vivitar 70-150 3.8 Macro focusing zoom. Really sharp for such a cheap lens, not too heavy and doesn't have the 'theft' draw of a Nikon lens.

 

[Bill Clark]

It depends. How do you define “best?”. What are you going to use it for?

For my photography, people at weddings and portrait work; I use Canon stuff. My primary lens is the 24-70 f2,8.

Now that I’m retired, not as much.

The lens isn’t cheap but I’ve used it a fair amount. Never failed me and my Canon bodies never failed. Great products. Never worried about them performing as I had other items that kept my interest.

But Nikon makes great products.

 

[narsuitus]

Here are four telephoto zooms that I like and use on my Nikon F2.


Telephoto Zooms by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[nikon_sam]

Dear shorelineae,

If you will look at 3rd party lenses I've been able to find several Vivitar Series 1 lenses in various ranges like 28-105 and 70-210 for relatively short money. I've bought a few for as little as $9.99 plus shipping through Shopgoodwill auctions. An expensive one might run $ 20.00, but you usually get a hard case with the expensive ones. There are also 28-70 and 35-80 lenses that are a constant f2.8 aperture but they tend to go over the $ 50.00 mark. They are worth looking into in my opinion, especially since most versions I've found have been Nikon AI or AI-S mount and they can often be used on newer Nikon film and digital bodies.

Regards,
Tim Murphy
Harrisburg, PA 🙂

I agree with the Vivitar Series1 lenses...I bought the 35-85mm and 70-210 lenses for my Pentax MXs plus I have the Winders on them too...good balance.

 

[Beemermark]

I agree with a others that the Nikon 80-200/2.8 AF lens has to be one of the best tele zooms ever. Unfortunately stop down metering with the F2 is sort of a PIA. I've often wondered if it is possible to add rabbit ears to the lens? There seems to be little dimples on the lens where the rabbit ear screws would go. Anybody ever done this?

 

[Pál_K]

I agree with a others that the Nikon 80-200/2.8 AF lens has to be one of the best tele zooms ever. Unfortunately stop down metering with the F2 is sort of a PIA. I've often wondered if it is possible to add rabbit ears to the lens? There seems to be little dimples on the lens where the rabbit ear screws would go. Anybody ever done this?

Chronologically:

If you have an F2 Photomic (DP-1 head), F2S, or F2SB, you can meter any lens wide open if the lens has rabbit ears. Without rabbit ears (e.g. AF lenses), you have to meter stopped-down

If you have an F2A or F2AS, you can meter an AI, AIS, AF lens wide open even if it doesn't have rabbit ears. The ridge on the rear of the lens will tell the meter what your aperture will be at the time of exposure. Pre-AI lenses (without ridge) have to be metered stopped down.

Nikon used to, maybe still does, place dimples near f/5.6 indicating where to tap and drill for affixing rabbit ears.
.

 

[Beemermark]

Chronologically:

If you have an F2 Photomic (DP-1 head), F2S, or F2SB, you can meter any lens wide open if the lens has rabbit ears. Without rabbit ears (e.g. AF lenses), you have to meter stopped-down

If you have an F2A or F2AS, you can meter an AI, AIS, AF lens wide open even if it doesn't have rabbit ears. The ridge on the rear of the lens will tell the meter what your aperture will be at the time of exposure. Pre-AI lenses (without ridge) have to be metered stopped down.

Nikon used to, maybe still does, place dimples near f/5.6 indicating where to tap and drill for affixing rabbit ears.
.

Thanks, I forgot the F2A didn't need the rabbit ears (I have the F2 with DP1 finder). So my 80-200 lens has three dimples, one at f4, one at 5.6 and one at f8. Are they actual screw holes painted over or do they need to be drilled and tapped. And which holes? The f4 & f8? TIA

 

[Pál_K]

... So my 80-200 lens has three dimples, one at f4, one at 5.6 and one at f8. Are they actual screw holes painted over or do they need to be drilled and tapped. And which holes? The f4 & f8? TIA

Although I don't have that lens, a close examination of this 55/2.8 Micro-Nikkor shows screws at f/4 and f/8.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

They need to be drilled and tapped if the aperture ring is metal. If it is the AF lens, it is probably plastic which only needs to be drilled.
Phil Forrest

 

[raid]

Galen Rowell preferred using the 75-150 E zoom. Light. Sharp, Cheap.