back alley
IMAGES
this may be in the archives already but then i must have missed it.
from my reading here i concluded that tri-x rated at 1250 in diafine might be my best bet.
i like the results from my limited shooting/scanning from this combo.
my only concern so far is not being able to open up on a bright day because of the increase in film speed.
i know i can 'normailze' things by shooting at a slower speed and using a different developer (on hand, ilfosol s, dd-x & rodinal) but if wanted to continue using the diafine for all my developing...what is the slowest i can rate tri-x and still get 'good' results?
joe
from my reading here i concluded that tri-x rated at 1250 in diafine might be my best bet.
i like the results from my limited shooting/scanning from this combo.
my only concern so far is not being able to open up on a bright day because of the increase in film speed.
i know i can 'normailze' things by shooting at a slower speed and using a different developer (on hand, ilfosol s, dd-x & rodinal) but if wanted to continue using the diafine for all my developing...what is the slowest i can rate tri-x and still get 'good' results?
joe
aizan
Veteran
try 800. using diafine was one of the main reasons i got a hexar rf, actually.
M
Marc Jutras
Guest
How about ND filters? Also, an orange or red filter would cut some light while giving you a higher contrast which is what Diafine seems to love. What do you think?
I just received my Diafine kit (1 gal.). I'll go get the rest of the stuff I need to start using it soon. Got to start rolling some HP5+...
I just received my Diafine kit (1 gal.). I'll go get the rest of the stuff I need to start using it soon. Got to start rolling some HP5+...
back alley
IMAGES
i could use filters and actually have a few around here but guess i'm trying to simplify as much as possible, carry as few things as i might.
photoshop also alleviates the 'need' for filters quite a bit.
joe
photoshop also alleviates the 'need' for filters quite a bit.
joe
M
Marc Jutras
Guest
Carrying a 2 stop ND would remain small enough ( I guess) and would give you some latitude.
back alley
IMAGES
true enough
Marc is right, use a filter.....
N
Nick R.
Guest
I've shot it at 400 and have had good results in diafine. The first time was when I forgot to manually change the speed until I'd shot about half a roll on my hexar af. It all depends on the contrast.
I agree with the filter suggestion too. I don't have an ND, but have used a dark orange filter having a 2-stop filter factor. Two stops seems minimal... Filterless, Sunny 16 would call for about f/22 at 1/1000 sec., assuming EI 1250 and bright sun. Often 1/1000 is actually slower than marked, and diffraction effects reduce sharpness at f/22, even if available. I think I'd want more than 4 stops of ND if I used this EI much in daylight.
back alley
IMAGES
i'll need to find these in 34 & 40 mm sizes as these fit my most used lenses.
i could use my series vi hoods for the 40 but i prefer my non series hood (smaller) for the 35/2 which is my most used lens. for 34 i have no series hood/filters.
i have a lovely selection of series vi filters...
joe
i could use my series vi hoods for the 40 but i prefer my non series hood (smaller) for the 35/2 which is my most used lens. for 34 i have no series hood/filters.
i have a lovely selection of series vi filters...
joe
Another option?
Use Plus X.
Use Plus X.
I hate this f...ing screen..............
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titrisol
Bottom Feeder
diafine will develop to a constant contrast index.
So you can shoot Tri-X from 400 to 1200 without much concerns. The negatives maybe dense but the contrast will be kept in check.
So you can shoot Tri-X from 400 to 1200 without much concerns. The negatives maybe dense but the contrast will be kept in check.
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