What to expect from M3 and 50mm

The rigid or DR Summicron aren't as sharp wide open as today's lenses, but they are sharp enough for most things,[..]
However, in case you are not satisfied with the f2.0 1 meter shots, you could take a look at photos done by these other amateur users of the same combo: Henri Cartier Bresson, Ralph Gibson, Gianni Berengo Gardin, etc...

Oh, I was very, very surprised by the 2.0-shoots. I wasn't expecting much and really was only looking for the typical leica characteristics in terms of contrasts and bokeh. I think I got it all with this lens (a shorter near-focus limit would have been sweet though).

However, I find it very hard to focus in dim light with lots of distracting lines in the viewfinder.
 
That's a cute bird ! 🙂

Thank you 🙂

It's a Senegal Parrot:
2249531868_1f697402da.jpg

(while looking at a big photo of another bird).
 
Oh, I was very, very surprised by the 2.0-shoots. I wasn't expecting much and really was only looking for the typical leica characteristics in terms of contrasts and bokeh. I think I got it all with this lens (a shorter near-focus limit would have been sweet though).

However, I find it very hard to focus in dim light with lots of distracting lines in the viewfinder.

With the 50, there shouldn't be any other framelines visible. M3's focus easily in dim light. Maybe your camera is having some mechanical problems. Stu
 
With the 50, there shouldn't be any other framelines visible. M3's focus easily in dim light. Maybe your camera is having some mechanical problems. Stu

Often enough when I try to explain things in English I sort of take erroneous short cuts.

What I meant was that when I'm focusing on something and there are several vertical lines but on different distances I get confused. I guess (hope) this is something I will learn.
 
The 1m close focusing and other factors inherit with the M3/50 present you some constraints that are at odds with with your stated goal, i.e. short depth of field studies and portraits. And a digital or slr with an inexpensive 50/1.4 or even a reasonable Nikon 50/1.2 ($400) will allow you to do those short DOF, close shots with ease. But by giving the Leica a good honest try it may lead you to discover a new sort of style or way to make photos.

The short depth of field look has been getting very popular and widespread -- sort of trendy -- I've been through that cycle myself -- but perhaps it is time to look beyond simply finding nice bokeh and shooting everything wide-open?
 
The short depth of field look has been getting very popular and widespread -- sort of trendy -- I've been through that cycle myself -- but perhaps it is time to look beyond simply finding nice bokeh and shooting everything wide-open?

Sure is! As I stated in the OP:

Me said:
I'm not at all concerned about moving on and developing a new style of shooting when I use this set up (I mean, heck that's mainly why I bought it).

However, 90% of the things I see on flickr and around is pretty much the opposite (very large DOF) when using a Leica RF (except when ppl use noct's and goes into the extremes in the other direction). It would be fun having the ability to do both (hence, I'm considering a 90mm summicron or elmarit). Although I see, that using big apertures and relatively short distances puts big demands on my ability to focus quickly (unless it's a stationary subject).

To conclude; I do confess to having been amused by trendy shallow DOF-photography for a time, but I'm looking into developing a new style of shooting. However, the carachteristcs of the lenses used must present another dimension to make up for an imo, loss of aestetics that the short DOF yield.
 
Sure is! As I stated in the OP:

However, 90% of the things I see on flickr and around is pretty much the opposite (very large DOF) when using a Leica RF (except when ppl use noct's and goes into the extremes in the other direction). It would be fun having the ability to do both (hence, I'm considering a 90mm summicron or elmarit). Although I see, that using big apertures and relatively short distances puts big demands on my ability to focus quickly (unless it's a stationary subject).

To conclude; I do confess to having been amused by trendy shallow DOF-photography for a time, but I'm looking into developing a new style of shooting. However, the carachteristcs of the lenses used must present another dimension to make up for an imo, loss of aestetics that the short DOF yield.

Like you I recently got a M3 with a 50/2 summicron. I also appreciate a smaller DOF. Here's from my first roll, shot with Kodachrome:

2902307544_721637f842.jpg


2902307558_0153225eb9.jpg
 
They are from 1980. The first is taken in Amsterdam, the second in St. Cloud, near Paris.
I still have the lens. De camera was a ds transformed into an ss, sadly I sold it long ago.
The original prints are incredebly sharp.

Erik.
 
Rodluvan, about the split, it's using the patch like the split in SLR's. Basically you find some vertical lines in your shot that cuts thru the patch (for me it's the disc slot of my nintendo wii hehe), and you'll notice that the patch works like a split focusing screen as an SLR. Very useful in low light.

I think by now you see the power of the rigid 😀 sharp, yet old. Our friends call that cheating, especially when you shoot bw. You can really cheat 2 stops off it whereas modern lenses will lose you that highlight or shadow.
 
Daniel, I see you are concerend about minimum focus distance with your M3. Here is one solution. Just put one of these between your 50 and your M3. This may even get you closer than you wanted--but there are other options for using the Visoflex--if you have a 90mm lens, which can be used for close focus with or without the OTZFO focusing mount. A used Visoflex is not expensive. Best, Rob.
 

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90mm on Visoflex II

90mm on Visoflex II

Here it is with a 90mm, using the lens' own focusing mount. This gets in very close, but is less extreme than with a 50.
 

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Lastly, here is the 90mm lens head used on the OTZFO focusing mount. With this you can go from infinity to about 12 inches from the lens; which is about 18 inches from the film plane (the right place to measure distance). You use the Visoflex like an SLR. But you only need it for the close range--you can take it off when you want rangefinder operation.
 

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One last option. This Dual Range Summicron, with the close focusing "eyes" in place, will focus from about 33 inches down to 19 inches. With the eyes removed, it goes from about 1M to infinity. The DR Summicron is optically the same as your rigid, but has the dual range close-focus mount. Your best option, for you style of photography?

Just wanted to illustrate the range of versatility you can have with your M3.
 

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