Frank Petronio
Well-known
Any tips? Do they rely on foam seals for light tightness? How are the ~ 18 year old electronics holding up?
i've got one that's been pretty much dead during the last couple of years due to a bad shutter release (electronic). that's not uncommon i believe, so if i was buying one again this would be on the top of my to "watch out" for.
as i understand it, for that particular problem parts are hard if not impossible to come by..
too bad, because it's a wonderful camera in so many respects...
as i understand it, for that particular problem parts are hard if not impossible to come by..
too bad, because it's a wonderful camera in so many respects...
user237428934
User deletion pending
I bought my hexar classic in 1998. In the last two years I used for aprox. three or four films. But every time I took it out of the cupboard and put a film into it, it just worked fine. Still love this camera. Only problem I ever had was some sand under/in the aperture dial. Chosing an aperture caused some terribly scraping noise. After some month the problem was gone without repair.
Phantomas
Well-known
As mentioned above, by far the most common problem with Hexars is the malfunctioning focus/shutter button problem. It been reported so often that it makes me believe that the failure is almost inevitable.
The problem manifests itself in (a) half-press of shutter button doesn’t hold autofucus; (b) fullpress doesn’t fire the shutter; (c) any combination of the above.
The good news is that the problem is easily fixable. I’ve bought a Hexar a few months ago, black one in a beautiful condition. It came with the aforementioned shutter button failure. Rather than returning the camera I got some discount and brought it to a friend for a fix-up. It worked.
Here’s the deal: the shutter button is a little flimsy on the inside and a simple disassemble-reassemble solves the issue 90% of the time. I have read confirmation of this over and over on interwebs, and had positive experience personally. The hardest part of this process is soldering. If you own a thin soldering apparatus and are fairly confident in your soldering skills it should be no problem.
Bookmark the link below, you’ll need it and that’s the best instruction on disassemble-reassemble shutter button instructions out there.
That being said Hexar is an AWESOME camera! When it comes to dirty street shots few come close. It quickly became one of my favorites. As a metter of fact looking at my shots the past month: Hexar, Hexar, Hexar. Love it.
Don’t let the shutter button issue put you off. Go for it!!!
Fixing shutter button (bottom of the page): http://silvergrain.com/labs/index.php/Konica_Hexar
A little story of my personal experience with this problem:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/hexar/discuss/72157608086802770/
My Hexar shots: http://www.flickr.com/photos/phantomas/sets/72157608742074776/
Good luck!!
The problem manifests itself in (a) half-press of shutter button doesn’t hold autofucus; (b) fullpress doesn’t fire the shutter; (c) any combination of the above.
The good news is that the problem is easily fixable. I’ve bought a Hexar a few months ago, black one in a beautiful condition. It came with the aforementioned shutter button failure. Rather than returning the camera I got some discount and brought it to a friend for a fix-up. It worked.
Here’s the deal: the shutter button is a little flimsy on the inside and a simple disassemble-reassemble solves the issue 90% of the time. I have read confirmation of this over and over on interwebs, and had positive experience personally. The hardest part of this process is soldering. If you own a thin soldering apparatus and are fairly confident in your soldering skills it should be no problem.
Bookmark the link below, you’ll need it and that’s the best instruction on disassemble-reassemble shutter button instructions out there.
That being said Hexar is an AWESOME camera! When it comes to dirty street shots few come close. It quickly became one of my favorites. As a metter of fact looking at my shots the past month: Hexar, Hexar, Hexar. Love it.
Don’t let the shutter button issue put you off. Go for it!!!
Fixing shutter button (bottom of the page): http://silvergrain.com/labs/index.php/Konica_Hexar
A little story of my personal experience with this problem:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/hexar/discuss/72157608086802770/
My Hexar shots: http://www.flickr.com/photos/phantomas/sets/72157608742074776/
Good luck!!
not to hijack the thread, but share a cute little story....
the weirdest thing just happened, using the fine instructions in phanotmas' link, i started disassembling my hexar. all the way up to removing the switch, that apparently requires a soldering iron which i don't have, nor the know-how to use such a thing on a "high tech" circuit board (or whatever these things are called). so "damn it" i thought, and figured i had run into a dead end, with a camera just as dead as before. ...put it together again, battery in, power on,... [drumroll] and it hasn't missed a frame since. in other words, the camera seems to work!! (knock on wood and let's hope it lasts)...
thanks for posting the link.
good luck with your hexar quest fp
the weirdest thing just happened, using the fine instructions in phanotmas' link, i started disassembling my hexar. all the way up to removing the switch, that apparently requires a soldering iron which i don't have, nor the know-how to use such a thing on a "high tech" circuit board (or whatever these things are called). so "damn it" i thought, and figured i had run into a dead end, with a camera just as dead as before. ...put it together again, battery in, power on,... [drumroll] and it hasn't missed a frame since. in other words, the camera seems to work!! (knock on wood and let's hope it lasts)...
thanks for posting the link.
good luck with your hexar quest fp
Frank Petronio
Well-known
Thanks. I've had them before, 8-9 years ago, as well as slower cameras (LTMs) and nicer cameras (M-series) but I keep coming back to wanting an auto-camera that doesn't feel like a toy and has a good lens... and I think this is the only one in existence!
It also helps me rationalize not getting that M6 and 35 ASPH on the old credit card....
It also helps me rationalize not getting that M6 and 35 ASPH on the old credit card....
kipkeston
Well-known
I actually just cleaned mine today. It had all the symptoms of a dirty shutter switch. I didn't use the chemicals silvergrain recommended rather just wiped the contacts. You could see the dirt wiping off and the parts coming clean. Works flawlessly now. It's very easy. Follow the directions. I didn't have to unsolder the switch! You just have to be careful and unsnap the cover of the switch to get at the dirty components. It's a very very easy job. Considering this is the only known problem I've heard of for this camera, I'd say we're in huge luck.
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Phantomas
Well-known
Not really. While it might sound like a compact camera, in reality it's almost exactly the same size as Contax G1. They cost about the same too, G1 might be a little more, if it comes with an extra lens or two. They're both automatic cameras but G1 gives you a little better control (a little more clear) over various functions.
But then again, the results from Hexar are something else... But then again - so are G1's
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
In fact, this is a simple fix, it requires taking the top off and prying open a tactile two-way switch. I have done it many times, I sold Hexars on the great auction site and have always serviced them before selling.
There's an article on the camerapedia website that has pictures with it.
If you are willing to pay shipping, I'll even fix it for you at no charge. It's a <1 hour procedure!
kipkeston
Well-known
Given that's the only problem with the camera, I'd say it's a pretty awesome kit.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
other things to look for in a Hexar: the rear viewfinder glass and collar need to be there. The cameras viewfinder is just a clear without it, but dust gets in the viewfinder.
The strap is an item to look for as well. If missing, ask for a rebate since it's near impossible to find. There is a single Domke gripper strap that fits since it is also very narrow, not sure what model designation that strap has.
Any Nikon flash will also work on the Hexar, in case you cannot manage to find the HX-14. As does the RF model, the HX-18w. Nice compact Nikon flash is the SB-30!
There are online English manuals for the AF and RF Hexars to be found on the internet, will look for the links. Finding a Quick reference card is handy also, since the Hexars controls are rather quirky in use.
The strap is an item to look for as well. If missing, ask for a rebate since it's near impossible to find. There is a single Domke gripper strap that fits since it is also very narrow, not sure what model designation that strap has.
Any Nikon flash will also work on the Hexar, in case you cannot manage to find the HX-14. As does the RF model, the HX-18w. Nice compact Nikon flash is the SB-30!
There are online English manuals for the AF and RF Hexars to be found on the internet, will look for the links. Finding a Quick reference card is handy also, since the Hexars controls are rather quirky in use.
Frank Petronio
Well-known
I tend to butcher any camera I attempt to fix. Are there any Hexar-experienced US camera repair people that people recommend?
infrequent
Well-known
@frank - greg weber is a konica specialist. (webercamera.com)
weber was among those who said no to repairing my hexar, due to the lack of parts issue (and if i understood him correctly it wasn't specifically about the focus/shutter release switch but parts in general). but this was over a year and a half ago, and maybe the situation is different now..
v3cron
Well-known
That was my reasoning, and I got a nice Silver version this past summer. It is probably the best auto camera I've used, especially for flash (using the flashmatic mode and a manual flash). It is really the most innovative flash system I've seen. The only drawback is that the thing is so fast, I burn through a roll of film in a matter of seconds.
peepoo
Newbie
I have the same experience as thorirv. It showed E22 error even I take the battery out. I disassembled and found that it is pretty hard to open the button without desolder the button then I decided to put battery back and guess what! it works. I think my shutter button still fine but the camera need a hard reset which reset button is not effective.
By the way, Greg Weber reply my email after a month later, told that he can't fix Hexar because lacks of parts so DIY is the way to go.
By the way, Greg Weber reply my email after a month later, told that he can't fix Hexar because lacks of parts so DIY is the way to go.
Ming The Merciless
Established
I own the black version of this camera and recently the shutter would not respond on an intermittent basis. I assumed it was because I had been out with it for a long time in cold weather. I may take it to Crysler repair on 34th St. This is the best camera I've ever used for street photography.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
DIY button repair, recommended!
DIY button repair, recommended!
Once you have taken out the battery, leave it for a day or two. The system needs to drain all current in order to reset. Simply taking out and putting in the battery won't do the trick.
There really is no need to solder or de-solder anything. The button is a black rubber one, held down to a plastic base by means of a silver-metal, kind of clamping plate. Get the smallest screw driver in the house (or a needle even), and pry one side of the plate loose. The button will pop loose.
In it, is a brass part that looks like a bug or a beetle. It's actually a two way switch: pressing lightly engages metering and focusing, pressing through makes the switch sink further and triggers the shutter.
Make sure not to bend any part of it while cleaning with clear vinegar and a cotton swab. The acid in the vinegar will clear all the corrosion on the brass, which normally causes the two way switch to trigger focus and metering.
Replace the brass part (hollow side down) and replace the button and silver plate that holds it down. Make sure it snaps into place. Reassemble, you're done.
Fifteen minute job, saves weeks of repair time and quite the buck.
DIY button repair, recommended!
Once you have taken out the battery, leave it for a day or two. The system needs to drain all current in order to reset. Simply taking out and putting in the battery won't do the trick.
There really is no need to solder or de-solder anything. The button is a black rubber one, held down to a plastic base by means of a silver-metal, kind of clamping plate. Get the smallest screw driver in the house (or a needle even), and pry one side of the plate loose. The button will pop loose.
In it, is a brass part that looks like a bug or a beetle. It's actually a two way switch: pressing lightly engages metering and focusing, pressing through makes the switch sink further and triggers the shutter.
Make sure not to bend any part of it while cleaning with clear vinegar and a cotton swab. The acid in the vinegar will clear all the corrosion on the brass, which normally causes the two way switch to trigger focus and metering.
Replace the brass part (hollow side down) and replace the button and silver plate that holds it down. Make sure it snaps into place. Reassemble, you're done.
Fifteen minute job, saves weeks of repair time and quite the buck.
kipkeston
Well-known
Since this is a common misconception I would like to reiterate that you do not need to unsolder the switch to clean inside.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
pictorial DIY
pictorial DIY
The link to the pictorial DIY is on the Silvergrain wiki, click here
Another tip, to avoid the E22 error: This error occurs when you are focusing nearby with a filter on. The front element jams up into the filter. Konica used to provide factory shimming through dealers, but I have never seen a shim for the whole front element since Konica's demise.
The trick: get another 46mm filter, wrap it up in a towel and carefully knock out the glass. Remove all splinters. Use this as a spacer between your filter and the lens. It will not protrude past the built-in lens hood and thus will not cause any ghost reflections. The filter will not jam up anymore.
It is a good idea to do this anyway, every now and then I forget that the focusing mechanism has trouble focusing through windows and the camera might involuntarily focus close. The perfect occasion for your front element to jam up...
pictorial DIY
The link to the pictorial DIY is on the Silvergrain wiki, click here
Another tip, to avoid the E22 error: This error occurs when you are focusing nearby with a filter on. The front element jams up into the filter. Konica used to provide factory shimming through dealers, but I have never seen a shim for the whole front element since Konica's demise.
The trick: get another 46mm filter, wrap it up in a towel and carefully knock out the glass. Remove all splinters. Use this as a spacer between your filter and the lens. It will not protrude past the built-in lens hood and thus will not cause any ghost reflections. The filter will not jam up anymore.
It is a good idea to do this anyway, every now and then I forget that the focusing mechanism has trouble focusing through windows and the camera might involuntarily focus close. The perfect occasion for your front element to jam up...