Phothomas
Established
Why not put a Winder 1 or 2 on your OM2SP and let it cock the shutter? It should be consistent and likely within the tolerances of your camera.
I tried that. Same effect. The camera is damaged somehow. The winder cocks it too hard. It´s only possible by hand and very carefully.
Thomas
v_roma
Well-known
Also, prompted by this thread, I just got a refurbished OM2n with a 50 1.8 even though I need another camera like I need a hole in the head. Does anyone have any experience with the Olympus 28-48 f4? This is pretty much the FL range I shoot and it would save me carrying two lenses when walking around. The size is particularly attractive and I would be willing to sacrifice *some IQ for that. Thanks.
maitani
Well-known
The 28-48 is one of the higher quality zooms in the om lineup, a solid performer, rather uncommon too, compact perfect for travel. If you find it at a good price, go for it
v_roma
Well-known
Thanks, Maitani. I saw one listed at KEH in EX condition so I went ahead and got it. Paid $115, which I have no clue whether or not is a good price for this particular lens but seemed like a reasonable price to me.
Spyderman
Well-known
Excuse me for reviving such an old thread but I'd like to add my 2 eurocents to the discussion.
For me the best of the OM family is the OM-1N. All the simplicity and beauty of OM-1 with all the improvements incorporated during manufacture of OM-1.
It has beautiful large viewfinder and is simple enough that every skilled repairman can fix it if something goes wrong. The mechanics are simple and very durable. Every time I open one for cleaning and adjustment I admire Mr. Maitani and his design team.
40 years old camera, probably never serviced during its life, with shutter speeds slower by 50% can after some adjustment perform within 10% of the nominal shutter speeds. Everyting is designed to be repairable and adjustable.
The more advanced model of the same era OM-2 adds more complexity to all repair procedures and diagnostics, however even this model is still repairable. Most electronic components are discrete parts which can be replaced.
The later models from OM-2SP until OM-4Ti use flexible circuits which were designed to be replaced if something goes wrong. Try finding replacement now. They also have dimmer viewfinder (unless you can afford a 2- series focus screen) due to all metering in the floor of the mirror box. The earlier of the second generation (2SP, 3, 4) also eat batteries.
For me the best of the OM family is the OM-1N. All the simplicity and beauty of OM-1 with all the improvements incorporated during manufacture of OM-1.
It has beautiful large viewfinder and is simple enough that every skilled repairman can fix it if something goes wrong. The mechanics are simple and very durable. Every time I open one for cleaning and adjustment I admire Mr. Maitani and his design team.
40 years old camera, probably never serviced during its life, with shutter speeds slower by 50% can after some adjustment perform within 10% of the nominal shutter speeds. Everyting is designed to be repairable and adjustable.
The more advanced model of the same era OM-2 adds more complexity to all repair procedures and diagnostics, however even this model is still repairable. Most electronic components are discrete parts which can be replaced.
The later models from OM-2SP until OM-4Ti use flexible circuits which were designed to be replaced if something goes wrong. Try finding replacement now. They also have dimmer viewfinder (unless you can afford a 2- series focus screen) due to all metering in the floor of the mirror box. The earlier of the second generation (2SP, 3, 4) also eat batteries.
MiniMoke
Well-known
For me it's clearly the OM2n.
Beautiful and versatile camera, works automatically with the Olympus T32 flash..... and even 35 years after it left tha factory, it's still going very strong.
A slight adjustment of the shutter times and a cleaning and lubing gave me a brand new feeling camera.
Beautiful and versatile camera, works automatically with the Olympus T32 flash..... and even 35 years after it left tha factory, it's still going very strong.
A slight adjustment of the shutter times and a cleaning and lubing gave me a brand new feeling camera.
Dave Jenkins
Loose Canon
The OM-2n, absolutely. It was my workhorse during the busiest and most productive years of my career. I love the OM system and hated when aging eyes forced me to switch to the Canon autofocus system.
Now I'm back to Olympus with a pair of OMDs, which are the next best thing.
Now I'm back to Olympus with a pair of OMDs, which are the next best thing.
Danlo
Established
Hi guys, just wanted to share some great news
My partners father found a case with an Olympus OM-1 MD (front leather) with Zuiko 50mm /f1.8 Auto-S and an Expert 135mm f/2.8 when sold their house this summer.. Guess who it was given too?
You cant even see its been used, and it works like new. Anybody knows if the Expert 135mm is any good? Does "Auto-s" mean thst it's a cheaper 50mm from those times?
Can this mint++ OM-1 just start to fail me suddenly when its been just lying in a camera case since the beginning of the 80's? From what i understand it could just as well never been used more then a few rolls..
My partners father found a case with an Olympus OM-1 MD (front leather) with Zuiko 50mm /f1.8 Auto-S and an Expert 135mm f/2.8 when sold their house this summer.. Guess who it was given too?
You cant even see its been used, and it works like new. Anybody knows if the Expert 135mm is any good? Does "Auto-s" mean thst it's a cheaper 50mm from those times?
Can this mint++ OM-1 just start to fail me suddenly when its been just lying in a camera case since the beginning of the 80's? From what i understand it could just as well never been used more then a few rolls..
wblynch
Well-known
Auto-S means it has an auto stop-down aperture and S means Standard (W = Wide and T = Telephoto)
Congratulations. Make sure to get the original foam out of there before it damages the prism. (look up OM-1 prism foam...)
Congratulations. Make sure to get the original foam out of there before it damages the prism. (look up OM-1 prism foam...)
aadi
Member
I've used all single-digit OMs and I think the best OM is OM-3 if you don't care about auto-exposure. And for some reason I actually prefer the OM-2 over OM-4 (and 4-Ti).
Also, the OM10 is actually not a bad camera, considering how cheap it is.
Also, the OM10 is actually not a bad camera, considering how cheap it is.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi guys, just wanted to share some great news
My partners father found a case with an Olympus OM-1 MD (front leather) with Zuiko 50mm /f1.8 Auto-S and an Expert 135mm f/2.8 when sold their house this summer.. Guess who it was given too?
You cant even see its been used, and it works like new. Anybody knows if the Expert 135mm is any good? Does "Auto-s" mean thst it's a cheaper 50mm from those times?
Can this mint++ OM-1 just start to fail me suddenly when its been just lying in a camera case since the beginning of the 80's? From what i understand it could just as well never been used more then a few rolls..
Hi,
They go on forever and a day. Mine is so old it hasn't even got the MD connections but get that prism checked whilst spares are still about. (Failing that an OM10 can be a donor.)
You can also get them sorted for modern batteries; well, mine was.
Regards, David
Danlo
Established
Thankyou for the advice about the prism!
Now to a problem I have encountered.
When I was going to check the battery compartment I first opened the smaller round door with a coin and realised that that had to be for the motordrive. The problem is that I just cant close it again.. It just pops up and wont lock down when I try to screw it into place again.. I dont think that the small hatch is broken, it just wont stay down when push it down and turn.. I cant just leave that gaping hole open?!
Any advice on the matter would be deeply appreciated.
Now to a problem I have encountered.
When I was going to check the battery compartment I first opened the smaller round door with a coin and realised that that had to be for the motordrive. The problem is that I just cant close it again.. It just pops up and wont lock down when I try to screw it into place again.. I dont think that the small hatch is broken, it just wont stay down when push it down and turn.. I cant just leave that gaping hole open?!
Any advice on the matter would be deeply appreciated.
Texsport
Well-known
I like the OM T4 but the shutter hangs up too often to be reliable.
I don't always use OM cameras, but when I do, I use an OM4 with motor drive - it's never failed me.
Texsport
I don't always use OM cameras, but when I do, I use an OM4 with motor drive - it's never failed me.
Texsport