akptc
Shoot first, think later
Rich, I love the feel of your shots - thank you!
OldNick
Well-known
According to a list I downloaded some time ago:
Elmar 50mm 1935
Summaron 35mm 1955
Elmar 90mm 1956
Hence, unless the 50mm was coated after manufacturing, it should be an uncoated lens as others have suggested.
Jim N.
Elmar 50mm 1935
Summaron 35mm 1955
Elmar 90mm 1956
Hence, unless the 50mm was coated after manufacturing, it should be an uncoated lens as others have suggested.
Jim N.
akptc
Shoot first, think later
Jim, thank you for looking it up. I've looked at the Elmar under all sorts of angles and it doesn't look coated.
Tun
kiumjoon
i have a question to ask too. Actually whats the difference from a coated and uncoated? which is better?
Ronald M
Veteran
The Summaron is coated so make consecutive pictures on one roll to see. Move in closer with the Summaron.
The difference will be the dark tones are not as dark, the light ones not as bright, and any over exposed areas will have less detail. Color intensitity is less.
Turn down the contrast and color saturation on your TV to see it real time.
The big jump is from non coated to coated and then a smaller step to multicoating.
The difference will be the dark tones are not as dark, the light ones not as bright, and any over exposed areas will have less detail. Color intensitity is less.
Turn down the contrast and color saturation on your TV to see it real time.
The big jump is from non coated to coated and then a smaller step to multicoating.
akptc
Shoot first, think later
I found some interesting sample shots with the Summaron 35/3.5 and Elmar 90/4.
Summaron 35/3.5
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7asgb/newphotographythroughvintagecameras2/id19.html
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7asgb/newphotographythroughvintagecameras2/id20.html
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BzqW&tag=
http://www.englandphotographic.com/methods.html
Elmar 90/4
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7asgb/newphotographythroughvintagecameras2/id21.html
Summaron 35/3.5
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7asgb/newphotographythroughvintagecameras2/id19.html
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7asgb/newphotographythroughvintagecameras2/id20.html
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BzqW&tag=
http://www.englandphotographic.com/methods.html
Elmar 90/4
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7asgb/newphotographythroughvintagecameras2/id21.html
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
doubs43 said:Look closer and you'll see "5cm" clearly engraved on the Elmar. I think you've mistaken the aperture marking for the focal lenmgth.
Walker
Oops!! My bad! :bang:
yossarian
Well-known
Andy, another consideration is lighting of the particular subjects. If you're doing long
or medium shots with the sun behind you, the characteristics you're after will never
show, especially if the exposure calls for small apertures. Try some tighter shots with
side or back lighting, then look not only at the main subject in the final print, but check the area of transition from in-focus to gradually more out of focus. Try to avoid
stopping down any farther than f/8 or f/9, as the case may be. The comments about
quickie commercial processing are essentially correct, but with care in the use of
light the glow*will* show up, even on the machine prints. And if ever in doubt
about exposure, crank it up--it's nearly impossible to completely overexpose modern
negative films. No human eye can tell the difference between "correct" exposure and one stop over--that's how broad the latitude is.
Fred
or medium shots with the sun behind you, the characteristics you're after will never
show, especially if the exposure calls for small apertures. Try some tighter shots with
side or back lighting, then look not only at the main subject in the final print, but check the area of transition from in-focus to gradually more out of focus. Try to avoid
stopping down any farther than f/8 or f/9, as the case may be. The comments about
quickie commercial processing are essentially correct, but with care in the use of
light the glow*will* show up, even on the machine prints. And if ever in doubt
about exposure, crank it up--it's nearly impossible to completely overexpose modern
negative films. No human eye can tell the difference between "correct" exposure and one stop over--that's how broad the latitude is.
Fred
akptc
Shoot first, think later
Fred, thanks a bunch for the advice. I've already reloaded with Tmax 400, pre-cut a few more rolls and will shoot 'till I get it right (the family is considering a vacation w/out meyossarian said:Andy, another consideration is lighting of the particular subjects...
Fred
yossarian
Well-known
akptc said:Fred, thanks a bunch for the advice. I've already reloaded with Tmax 400, pre-cut a few more rolls and will shoot 'till I get it right (the family is considering a vacation w/out me).
It serves you right for buying the bag I wanted
Fred
akptc
Shoot first, think later
Sorry Fred... btw, the seller just emailed me, said the bag was in pristine conditionyossarian said:It serves you right for buying the bag I wanted![]()
Fred
John Shriver
Well-known
Being uncoated, your Elmar will have lower contrast than a coated lens. But not dramatically, since the Elmar is a very simple lens, with four elements in three groups. That means that there are four peices of glass, and two are glued together. Each air-to-glass interface causes a loss of light and contrast, so there are six such surfaces in the Elmar.
Coated lenses with more than 3 groups will have more reduction in contrast due to lack of coating.
Coating doesn't increase sharpness, just contrast, and a little more light transmission.
Coated lenses with more than 3 groups will have more reduction in contrast due to lack of coating.
Coating doesn't increase sharpness, just contrast, and a little more light transmission.
yossarian
Well-known
akptc said:Sorry Fred... btw, the seller just emailed me, said the bag was in pristine condition![]()
"Pristine" you say....that word....you are possessed, aren't you? He got inside you
and is using you for all his nefarious plots. The only way for you to save your soul
is to send me the accursed bag. Otherwise, your every thought, every move will be
under his misanthropic control. It's dangerous for me, but I must do this for you
Andy--it's your only way out.
akptc
Shoot first, think later
John, thank you for the info. I've ordered a few books, including " Leica: Witness to a Century", the "Leica Pocket Book", and the "The New Leica manual:...", in hopes of educating myself a bit more. I must say I enjoyed reading "The Leica M" book, so these new ones should be a treat as well.
Fred, so kind of you to offer your spiritual help (i.e. to spirit away my new pristine Caontax G bag
). I will think about it.... nope, I am keeping the bag, curses be damned
) You can have the pick of my pre-Ford-era system bags though...
Fred, so kind of you to offer your spiritual help (i.e. to spirit away my new pristine Caontax G bag
Mike Kovacs
Contax Connaisseur
Remember, the old prewar Elmar 50/3.5 was THE LENS that made 35mm photography a feasible proposition. High resolution optics are needed to get reasonable prints from such a small film area.
That it seems barely different from much more modern lenses is quite a credit to the achievement Leitz made in the 1920's with this lens! The Elmar only improved over time - if you can handle the slower speed, its certainly a first-class lens, as are any of the myriad of 4/3 Zeiss Tessar type designs.
That it seems barely different from much more modern lenses is quite a credit to the achievement Leitz made in the 1920's with this lens! The Elmar only improved over time - if you can handle the slower speed, its certainly a first-class lens, as are any of the myriad of 4/3 Zeiss Tessar type designs.
akptc
Shoot first, think later
- Which Leica lens would be the modern incarnation of the Elmar 50/3.5?Mike Kovacs said:... That it seems barely different from much more modern lenses is quite a credit to the achievement Leitz made in the 1920's with this lens!...
T
tedwhite
Guest
Maybe the Elmar-M 50/2.8 collapsible?
Mike Kovacs
Contax Connaisseur
geez gearheads, I'm talking about the results on film... 
lubitel
Well-known
is that normal that the Elmar lens has feet markings and not meter?
Les Lammers
Established
lubitel said:is that normal that the Elmar lens has feet markings and not meter?
The meter scaled lenses were usually sold in Europe. Feet or meters, it really makes no difference.
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