Which Bessa body or better, glass?

[mike goldberg]

Hi Bessa users,
Leica M2 fan here...

I'm considering a 2nd RF body, and a cheaper alternative to another M2.
The problem is in the word "cheap." I've heard there is a cheap feel to the Bessa,
and the range finder is easily knocked out of alignment.

Further, having just ordered the CV 25/4 Skopar...
I'm wondering if me shekels would be far better spent for a
Nokton 40mm 1.4 [multi coated]?

Let's hear and thanks,
mike

 

[fishtek]

Cheap? I don't think so. The Bessa R body is made from composite resins and a solid metal frame, with metal top and bottom plates. The subsequent models have been beefed up even more. In my mind, it's like the different between metal armor and kevlar armor. Lighter doesn't mean necessarily weaker. Some RF's are heavier (Think Leica) by design, and if you compare directly, yeah, you'll notice the difference.

If you treat your camera roughly, you'll eventually blow something up, and some cameras are built to take casual neglect with more grace than others. Me? I keep the bottom half of the case on my camera, and don't worry about it.

Regards!

Don

 

[markinlondon]

The Bessa R is covered with plastic and feels like it. The finder in excellent but there's a feeling of cheapness about the overall construction. The later Bessa's fell much more solid being covered in metal but will still feel a bit flimsy compared to your M2.

 

[roundg]

The Bessa R is covered with plastic and feels like it. The finder in excellent but there's a feeling of cheapness about the overall construction. The later Bessa's fell much more solid being covered in metal but will still feel a bit flimsy compared to your M2.

Totally agree. That why I finally sold all my three bessa, L, T, and R2.....

 

[dazedgonebye]

I've got a Fed-2 that'll feel much more solid than a R/R2/R3.... Of couse, you give up a couple of things, but if a heavy metal feel is what's important to you, I'll make you a good deal.
The Bessas are good shooters. I had a R briefly but gave it up for the auto-exposure of a R3A. The R3A is certainly more substantial than the R, but I never got the feeling that the R was just going to fall apart on me, short of my abusing it.

 

[markinlondon]

Oh, I forgot to say that, in the UK at least, the Bessas aren't that much cheaper than old Leicas. When I went looking for a second body I could buy a used R2 or R2a for £299 but finally bought a second M2 for £350.

 

[Bryan Lee]

Because you already have a Leica it might be a step down to get a Bessa. I have 2 of the R2 bodies and they are pretty dang good for what I paid for them. One has had the focus out of whack one time but it was after a few days in Cambodia on a epic journey down a horribly bad road.


The new mechanical bodies look good and I will most likely get one, I understand they are now built tougher with a stronger rewind but Ive never heard of any real test being done. The big advantage with any new camera is just that, the electronics are new. My old favorite camera was a Rollie with no working meter and I caried around a light meter all the time in my pocket, it was a juggling act on the street. The light meter is nice to have and I doubt you will find anything as good for the same money in a M-Mount, as far as meters go.


If it was a newbie I would say go straight for a Bessa, In your case you should rent or borrow one for a weekend and shoot a few rolls of film and see if you like it, We already know you like the M-2 so you can always fall back to another one.

As far as glass, bigger and faster is always better 😀 Cut back on qauntity and go for qaulity, whatever glass you get now will work great on a MP later :angel:

 

[tedwhite]

You really get your money's worth with a Bessa. I have an R that I carry daily and it shows no signs of being cheaply made. It's an LTM camera, so all that wonderful Leica and Canon glass screws right on. Someday I'll step up to one of the newer Bessa models, probably, but I won't sell this one.

Ted

 

[Jonathan_100]

I carry my Bessa R everywhere—bars, backpacking, my kids' events—it's pretty unstoppable. I blew the shutter once by advancing before a long exposure was done. The strap mounts cause a little problem in the way the rig hangs with lighter lenses—a design flaw that I understand has been corrected in the later models.

It took me a while to get use to the light 'cheap' feel. I came over from a Contax RTS and a Yashica GSN. I don't notice it now. I'm just looking for good results and the Bessa hasn't let me down yet.

jz

 

[cbass]

The RF never goes out of alignment on the Bessa L. 🙂 It's the ultimate second body for LTM wide angle lenses. My personal experience with the L has been very good. It is rugged and simple and stands up well against extremes of heat and cold.

Sometimes derided as the "cheapest" of all the Bessas, the L is by far my favorite and most-used film camera. It is a perfect home for the 25/4 as well.

 

[peter_n]

If you use wide lenses, like the 21, 24/25 or 28 the forthcoming Bessa R4M or R4A is a unique and innovative new camera that at least on paper is very attractive. I'm going to sell a Leica body to get the camera when it arrives in the spring. I don't have any problems using a Canonet with a Leica and I don't expect to have any problems using a Bessa with a Leica either.

 

[Solinar]

I have a Besssa R as a second body for my Leica screw mounts, which I bring with me when I travel.

Other than the need to recalibrate the RF - because I dropped the camera - it has never failed to take a useable photo.

As a curious sort and to service the camera, I've had a look under the bonnet, so to speak. With the top and bottom covers removed, the build does not look very robust to my eyes. My FED 2 will definitely outlast the Bessa R, but as for having it as a second body I'm happy with it.

 

[gb hill]

I think you should go with the bessa L. It's priced cheap, unless you wan't a black bodied L. For $100 bucks or less you got a great scale focus camera to play around with, especially since the 25/4 isn't rf coupled anyway.

 

[mike goldberg]

Thanks guys... there's a lot of good info here.
QUESTIONS:
- Given that I have 35 & 90 lenses in M-mount, would it not make more sense to go for a Bessa R2?
- Also, what is a Bessa R2a? Let's leave the '3' series out of the equation now as too expensive.

Re: CV Nokton 1.4 MC: It's supposed to be a fabulous lens, so let's hear...
Thanks & ciao, mike

 

[JonathanA]

I don't know about the R but I have the R3A and it feels really solid. It's got a metal build as stated before and I've got no fear of breaking it when I run through traffic and what not. Of course if your going to be throwing your camera against walls it's going to break, but if your afraid of dropping it or bumping into things then I wouldn't worry.

The R2A is the same thing as the R3A except it has a 35mm frameline (where as the R3A has the 40mm) and also it doesn't have the full 1:1 viewfinder but that's not a problem. Oh and the R2A also has AE which is actually quite useful on the fun.

 

[surlysimon]

I have both R and R2, the R has traveled extensivly and aside from worn paint (which looks wierd on a platic body well the black paint version does) it is still fine. the R with a 35/2.5 or 28/3.5 it is a very small and light camera to carry around and use. I do sometimes feel a little uncomftable with the plastic feel of the R but then it rminds me of the advantages of that plastic and I get over it.
The big thing to get over is the metal Vs Plastic thing, yes in some uses metal is streets ahead, in others Plastic just makes sense, and some engineering plastics are actualy stronger as well as lighter then metal.
So I guess what I am saying is if you want a second body to carry and use along with your M2 but one that gives you a different feel and veiw go with an R and enjoy it for what it is.

 

[mike goldberg]

OK, it's getting more clear...

Given that I have an excellent Summaron 35/2.8,
I don't think I'll be rushing into the Nokton 40/1.4.
Gandy says the R2a is 3mm taller than the R
because of the metal in the top and bottom plates.
Re: SHUTTER: I'm familiar with the Copal all metal,
vertical travel shutter that syncs flash at 1/125.

Do you find the shutter noisy?
Thanks, mike

 

[surlysimon]

The shutter is noisier than a Leica or Canon or Nikon, but that said in 99% of circumstances I don't think it's a problem. If you can try one and see what you think remembering that the noise you hear is much louder than your subject will hear. The R is slightly quiter than the R2 and we are told the R#M is quietest of all.

 

[mike goldberg]

Hi surlysimon, down under in Melbourne.
Perhaps one day, I shall visit your fair city.

You are a treasure trove of info.
Let's review for clarity:

- The R shutter is slightly quieter than the R2?
- The LTM screw mount presents BOTH an advantage and disadvantage...
*I cannot use my Leitz 35 & 90's on an R.
*I CAN use the CV 25/4 Skopar which is on its way from Gandy, on either my M2 or the R. There are a lot of good, used low cost lenses available in LTM mount, AND these can be used on an M body with an adapter OR on the R, without.

Tho' I'm taking my time with this, I had a look at KEH. There's a silver R, Exc+ for $215-. An R2 is double that, and then some. I'm using the M2 with a hand held meter [and often with NO meter]... I think I can live without AE. I like the LOOK of the R, it is 3mm shorter than the R2, and lighter.

Comments and Feedback welcome ;-)
mike

 

[surlysimon]

Glad to be of service Mike

R Vs R2

The R is lighter and very slightly smaller (put a 35 scopar or that 25 on it and it's pocketable), it will fit lots of reasonably priced lenses I use Jupiter 8, industar , canon and voigtlander lenses. The meter is allways avalible and mine has never let me down. your Signature lists a jupiter 8 is that LTM? if so there is yiur first R lens.

The R2 feels more solid and does use an M mount (I use mine with a 40/1.4 relying on the 35mm framelines). The meter in the R2 only works if you wind the film on which can be a blessing or a pain it depends on how you shoot. The R2 is still a mechanical shutter so if the batteries go it still fires, you have to go to the R2A to get AE. The R2 also acepts a trigger winder if that interests you.

As I and others have said these cameras can be great users, I have had no problems with mine so far. There are usualy lots of Rs and R2s for sale (try the Classifieds here) so I think taking your time is wise, try to find someway of trying one to see if it suits.

Good Luck