Which Contax G body?

Talk to me about "LCD bleed" if you do not mind... what exactly is it and what would i use the LCD for?
KEH is selling G1 w/ LCD bleed for $96...
 
LCD bleeding is either a fading or the digital display or leaking of the display. It can literally look like oil on water.
 
hmmm... and what information does the LCD display? Would I need the LCD for anything if I am just shooting away with a 28mm on autofocus/autoexposure? (like a big p+s)
 
This is what LCD bleed looks like. You can see part of the right LCD is black at the edges:

DSC_0799-1200.jpg
 
The G1 (and as far as I remember the G2 as well) has three LCD's - the in-finder main info display, and the film counter and left hand info display on the body. The latter is rather irrelevant (and I haven't seen a failed one so far), but if the main display in the finder fails, the camera loses much of its functionality - this is the only AE/meter display and the only distance meter display, so that its failure reduces the camera to either blind all auto P&S or all manual scale focus. Most common are partial counter failures at the bottom edge (as depicted above) - these are an aesthetic rather than an operational flaw. Even a total counter failure is pretty much survivable unless you are a low-volume consumer type shooter.
 
Who says the G90 is hard to focus on the Contax G1? It can even manage action shots!


83990010.JPG by kafe-pic, on Flickr

OK, I'll admit I don't have a 100% hit rate, but neither would I if I tried similar shots with the M4 and f5.6 DOF.
 
So we all know that the Contax G1+G2 viewfinders are by no means amazing in terms of size and clarity. I did notice that for use with the 21mm lens, there is a separate viewfinder. If I got a 50mm external viewfinder for use with the 45mm lens, would the auto focus point be accurate using it?
 
filmfan said:
So we all know that the Contax G1+G2 viewfinders are by no means amazing in terms of size and clarity. I did notice that for use with the 21mm lens, there is a separate viewfinder. If I got a 50mm external viewfinder for use with the 45mm lens, would the auto focus point be accurate using it?
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Do you have a VF in mind that has a crosshair or something similar in the middle? or would you just guestimate the AF point?

The biggest negatve I can see is that you would be giving up one of the few "focus confirmation" --I use the term VERY loosely-- of the Contax G: the distance scale in the viefinder. While it's far from being a good focusing tool, you can at least get a sense of whether you are in the neighborhood or not.
 
froyd said:
Do you have a VF in mind that has a crosshair or something similar in the middle? or would you just guestimate the AF point?

The biggest negatve I can see is that you would be giving up one of the few "focus confirmation" --I use the term VERY loosely-- of the Contax G: the distance scale in the viefinder. While it's far from being a good focusing tool, you can at least get a sense of whether you are in the neighborhood or not.
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Interesting. I was thinking of, like, drawing in a crosshair or center dot on a Voigtlander viewfinder or something along those lines. Whatever maybe it's worth it to try.
 
Just Got A Contax G2

Just Got A Contax G2

I just received a Contax G2 on Thursday in the mail. I have had my G1 for about 6 yrs. I always thought it was great camera but I came close to selling my system 2 months ago. I used the G2 for the first time yesterday. The focus is so much faster. It also seems quieter. I think I will be sticking with the Contax G system a little longer. The VF has never been an issue for me.
 
I just bought a G2 coming from a G1. Heard about how much better the G2 is for low light but I'm not sure if my G2's infrared is broken but it is definitely not better than my G1 in low light. I was able to focus in almost darkness with the af assist beam from the G1, but the G2 is having a terribly hard time in just dimly lit situations.
 
Much as I love my M, when I go on vacation the choice of what camera to take is always between the Contax G and it's light weight lenses, and the 3.5 Rolleiflex. Both offer maximum IQ at some of the lightest weights in their format size.
 
SolaresLarrave said:
One thing, jdos: what's in the G2 that you may miss in the G1? Other than second-curtain flash, 1/4000 as the highest shutterspeed, and (probably) a faster ftp speed? Sure, a larger baseline (concept I still haven't grasped) and size, but otherwise, it's the same titanium body with really easy film load, a bit of an annoying shutterlag and TTL flash metering.

Am I missing something? Please, advice. Thanks!!
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I use hyperfocal distance in my photography quite often. I like the manual distance setting in G2, which is through front wheel and by pressing button on the back at the same time. In G1 it happens through top knob, which is easily disturbed. I have both, and quite often use G1 as a backup body, stashed in my backpack just in case, when I do backpacking. All in all G2is much more of a camera.
 
Boy I am happy that thanks to the Widepan adapter I can now use my Hologon 16mm f/8 on a decent camera instead of only on the Contax G1 or G2.

Erik.

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There are two versions of the Contax G1 rangefinder. The two versions can be distinguished by the white or green label located in the film chamber of the body.

The first version, called the white label version, only accepted the 16mm, 28mm, 45mm, and 90mm lenses.

The second version, called the green label version, also accepts the 21mm and 35mm lenses.


White Label/Green Label by Narsuitus, on Flickr
 
I use G1 green sticker with 45/2 and 28/2.8

Pro : Smaller body than the G2, cheaper. You can get (G1+lens) for G2 body only price.
Cons: Focusing in low light sometime not accurate. In bright light no problem.

~ron~
 
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