Which developer for HP5+ ?

[kaiyen]

As Anchell and Troop said, reusing developer is penny wise, pound foolish. It just doesn't make sense. If you're using a lot of undiluted developer I guess it gets kind of pricey. But otherwise I don't see the reasoning for it.

allan

 

[allthumbs]

Lest I be misunderstood, it is the Ilfosol S <i>concentrate</i> that is known to go off without warning. Using it one-shot is no guarantee of potency, as I found out.

 

[back alley]

Lest I be misunderstood, it is the Ilfosol S <i>concentrate</i> that is known to go off without warning. Using it one-shot is no guarantee of potency, as I found out.

ah! i misunderstood.
i must be lucky so far as it has kept it's potency for me.
joe

 

[AGN]

Another vote for DD-X.

 

[kaiyen]

This has got to be the longest "what developer to use" thread with the fewest suggestions ever.

My apug instincts are kicking in. I say you use Pyrocat HD. Mix it up yourself from chemicals that you get out of materials which you must first dig out of at least 100' of dirt and/or rock.

allan

 

[jano]

I've done a few rolls in xtol, results are not good -- even with various dilutions, I get a sort of "blah" "bleached" "washed" look, hard to describe. Since that's the only developer I currently have, gave up on hp5 for now.

 

[xabi]

For those who have used HP5+ with HC110, can you post your development time/dil as well as agitation techniques?

HP5 is my favorite film. I develop it in D76 and get good result. When I push it to 1600, I use DDX. I've tried it with HC110 but didn't get good result. The grain is just too obvious (I scan my films).

Thanks.

Jeff

 

[T_om]

I use Diafine.

Which will probably come as a complete surprise to everyone here reading this. 😉

Tom

PS: The only HP5+ shot I have in my gallery at present is the bamboo shot. HP5+ in good 'ol Diafine.

 

[Trius]

Tom: WE ARE SHOCKED!

 

[peterc]

I've always been partial to Ilfosol-S for HP5+ (and FP4+ too). As long as you use your Ilfosol-S by the best before date ... within 4 months (3 is better) of opening the bottle ... I don't think you'll see itb suffer from the sudden death syndrome. But it certainly doesn't have the keeping properties of Rodinal.

Peter

 

[jja]

Jeff, using the Massive Dev. Chart as a guide (http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html), I usually pull back dev. times about 30 seconds using Dil. H, which supposedly helps produce a better scan (less washed out). I'm still experimenting with times, and thus have not settled on an optimal development time for my scanning purposes. So far, -30 seconds gives a nice scan without too much tweaking or post-processing.

I agitate the first 15 seconds, then mildly every minute or so (though I'm not over-diligent on agitation).

I have been shooting HP5+ mostly at 800, and I find the grain acceptable. I think my developing and scanning techniques have improved over time (about 25 rolls, I'm still a youngster at this), so I cannot speak to how noticeable grain is at 1600. Using a Konica-Minolta ScanDual IV + Vuescan, I find the grain reduction setting (set to 'light') quite useful with minimal softening (I use the grain reduction quite sparingly w/ film shot at 800).

 

[allthumbs]

Jeff,

I go pretty much by the book, meaning Ilford's recommendations and www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ for less common dilutions. However, no matter what the time, I do minimal agitation after the 3rd minute, and none at all after the fifth minute.

The one really critical thing about HC-110 is that, no matter the dilution, you must use at least 3mL syrup per standard roll of film (135/36 or 120). That means that for a 240mL steel tank, you should not use dilution G (1:119), and just barely dilution F (1:79), nor should you use the now popular 1:100 dilution. I make it 4mL/roll just to be safe, which since I use steel tanks rules out dilution F altogether, as well as H (1:63). Edit: (Assuming a full length roll, that is.)

 

[allthumbs]

Or I was especially unlucky, but let me urge you to supplement your luck with routine clip tests, if you don't do so already.

 

[xabi]

Great. Thanks for sharing the technique.

Jeff

 

[childers-jk]

Allan & aterlecki

Thanks for the info. I had heard that the two were almost identical, yet heard also that they react differently with HP5. Not to hijack the thread, but is there any truth to that? I mean there is definately some difference between Tri X and HP5, but is there enough to justify two different developers?

I am still new at this and trying to figure things out, so all information is welcome. Even if you think it may be too simple.

Jeff C.

 

[xayraa33]

HP - 5 developed in D76 1:1 has been my favorite staple standard for many many years now. As long as Ilford keeps making that film, and the Rochester giant still markets D 76, I will continue to use this combo.

 

[titrisol]

pssst xayraa33.... when Kodak stops makind D76 yu can stil use Ilford ID11 they are the same
And a lot others will still make clones, such as Sprint, freestyle.....

 

[pesphoto]

Ive used nothing but Sprint for years and it never fails me.

 

[xayraa33]

pssst xayraa33.... when Kodak stops makind D76 yu can stil use Ilford ID11 they are the same
And a lot others will still make clones, such as Sprint, freestyle.....

yes.. I know they are the same... D76 has been always very easy and cheap to buy here in Ontario and photo shops that sell Ilford films sometimes do not carry the Ilford film developers, but the big yellow envelopes of D76, Dektol, Kodakfixer and Hypo Clearing Agent seem to be always available. If D76/ID11 are not being sold in the future, I will mix my own from bulk chemicals , it is a simple formula.

 

[Beniliam]

I use XTOL and HP5... I dont know why other members dont like this combination. One great film for develop in XTOL is Neopan 400/1600