stillshunter
unlearning digital habits
Guys I realise this line of questioning is not only tiresome, repetitive and subjective, but I could really use some help here. I'm returning to film and have so far been lucky enough to have someone soup my negatives for me, but it's time to stand on my own two feet. I have access to both TMax and Tri-X 400 film which I'm happy with - though am keen to try a few others in the coming weeks. Now after much research I'd settled on Xtol - but living rural here in Australia and having issues with delivery of chemicals to a PO Box - I'm now stuck with buying from a bricks and mortar store. My local store only stocks Ilford. So with ID-11, LC-29, DDX, etc., on the shelves which would you put in the basket?
I don't mind grain - hence why I shoot with 400 and film
- but I also like creaminess (esp. in the mid-tones), nice shadow detail and reasonable (not over-the-top) contrast. Liquids seem the easiest to handle while I get familiar with the process, but I'd prefer not to compromise on quality - as I want to make sure these formative results are good ones that keep me as hooked to development as I am to shooting - so happy to mix powders.
Any opinions on Ilford chems only are much appreciated.
I don't mind grain - hence why I shoot with 400 and film
- but I also like creaminess (esp. in the mid-tones), nice shadow detail and reasonable (not over-the-top) contrast. Liquids seem the easiest to handle while I get familiar with the process, but I'd prefer not to compromise on quality - as I want to make sure these formative results are good ones that keep me as hooked to development as I am to shooting - so happy to mix powders.Any opinions on Ilford chems only are much appreciated.
Jockos
Well-known
ID-11 is basically the same as Kodak D-76, which works great for just about any film!
ooze
Established
They're all good enough
For a start, I would suggest either ID-11 or DDX. ID-11 will need mixing from powder. DDX is more expensive.
Ilford Perceptol may reduce the film speed somewhat (depends on dilution) and will require some testing, so I would not recommend that as a start. However, once you've learned how to use it it's a superb developer.
For a start, I would suggest either ID-11 or DDX. ID-11 will need mixing from powder. DDX is more expensive.
Ilford Perceptol may reduce the film speed somewhat (depends on dilution) and will require some testing, so I would not recommend that as a start. However, once you've learned how to use it it's a superb developer.
Johnmcd
Well-known
I find Ilfosol 3 very easy and economical to use and gives very consistent results with the Delta 100 and 400 films. Also great with HP4 and HP5.
John
John
Freakscene
Obscure member
If you PM me I can send you a 5L Xtol pack to get you started.
Marty
Marty
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
That's good of you Marty.
Xtol is a great developer and until I got seduced by the grain of Rodinal it was all I used. Easy to mix and relatively inexpensive!
stillshunter
unlearning digital habits
You guys are great!!!
@Freakscene - PMed mate.
@Freakscene - PMed mate.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I recently purchased a variety of developers other than Rodinal to test with Delta 100 and FP4+ 4x5. None of that is related to your question except for why I am looking forward to the results with Ilfosol 3 vs the others -- XTol, HC-110 and my standby Rodinal.
Peter Cameron uses Ilfosol 3 a lot and the results he led me to buy a bottle.
Peter Cameron uses Ilfosol 3 a lot and the results he led me to buy a bottle.
joeswe
Well-known
robert blu
quiet photographer
For B&W I mainly use delta films and develop them with Ilfosol 3 . I testing now DDX (mainly for the 400)
robert
robert
btgc
Veteran
LC29 is developer letting jump start from zero - that's all I can say. As said ^^^, keeps well (strong + if you do not develop too often).