al1966
Feed Your Head
I realy want to say what ever 400plus I can get for as little or no money as possible
, but I like the option to shoot lots of film. I guess my fav over all has been HP5 in id11/d76, I know very boring
M
Magus
Guest
Post deleted by posters request
bigdog
Established
Favorite films at various speeds
Favorite films at various speeds
Slow speed when I don't mind a tripod (shot @ 25): EFKE 25 in Rodinal
Medium speed (shot @ 64): AGFA APX 100 in Rondial
Faster speed (shot @ 250): Tri-X 400 in HC110
Fastest speed (Shot @ 1250): Tmax 3200 in Rodinal for pronounced sharp grain
Favorite films at various speeds
Slow speed when I don't mind a tripod (shot @ 25): EFKE 25 in Rodinal
Medium speed (shot @ 64): AGFA APX 100 in Rondial
Faster speed (shot @ 250): Tri-X 400 in HC110
Fastest speed (Shot @ 1250): Tmax 3200 in Rodinal for pronounced sharp grain
RHaroldP
Member
PanF and APX 100 in Rodinal
TriX in D-76
The very best film is whatever is loaded in my camera.
TriX in D-76
The very best film is whatever is loaded in my camera.
Harry Lime
Practitioner
Tri-X @ 400 - If I had to choose one film for the rest of my life, this would be it. I know of no better.
Delta3200 @1600 - I prefer it over Neopan 1600. I get better shadow detail and somehow the grain cuts very well against shots done on Tri-X. It can get nice and 'creamy' looking at lower speeds, which is really beautiful. It's one of the most expensive b/w films out there, but well worth it.
I soup both in Ilford DD-X. Great combination IMO. In this developer Tri-X takes on a very 'pearly' look, with full speed and plenty of shadow/highlight detail. I prefer it over the look I got in XTOL.
Now that APX100 is no more I need to find a nice 100 speed film.
It will probably be Plux-X or HP4...
Oh, and I agree with Tom A about Kodak 5222 Super XX movie stock. Very interesting film that can deliver beautiful results.
Delta3200 @1600 - I prefer it over Neopan 1600. I get better shadow detail and somehow the grain cuts very well against shots done on Tri-X. It can get nice and 'creamy' looking at lower speeds, which is really beautiful. It's one of the most expensive b/w films out there, but well worth it.
I soup both in Ilford DD-X. Great combination IMO. In this developer Tri-X takes on a very 'pearly' look, with full speed and plenty of shadow/highlight detail. I prefer it over the look I got in XTOL.
Now that APX100 is no more I need to find a nice 100 speed film.
It will probably be Plux-X or HP4...
Oh, and I agree with Tom A about Kodak 5222 Super XX movie stock. Very interesting film that can deliver beautiful results.
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markinlondon
Elmar user
If the world were two stops brighter overall I'd shoot nothing but FP4 in ID-11. But as it isn't I'll have to say Tri-x. Or HP5, I'm the exception to Tom A's rule
.
Morca007
Matt
I've got to say, I just love the look of HP5+. And at 400 it's got a pretty wide range.
sweathog
Well-known
markinlondon said:If the world were two stops brighter overall
Haha.
I wish it were a couple of stops darker.
foto_fool
Well-known
This one is for Magus:
A friend of mine once told me that a fine Bordeaux is like a tall Scandanavian blonde reading you a love poem, while a great Burgundy is like a sultry brunette husking wetly in your ear.
(Note to PC folks - the above statement is gender neutral.)
Delta 100 is my blonde, Neopan 1600 is my brunette.
Outside this metaphor, Neopan 3200 is my bette noir, but I'm really starting to dig the Fomapan and Fortepan 200's.
Cheers! - John
A friend of mine once told me that a fine Bordeaux is like a tall Scandanavian blonde reading you a love poem, while a great Burgundy is like a sultry brunette husking wetly in your ear.
(Note to PC folks - the above statement is gender neutral.)
Delta 100 is my blonde, Neopan 1600 is my brunette.
Outside this metaphor, Neopan 3200 is my bette noir, but I'm really starting to dig the Fomapan and Fortepan 200's.
Cheers! - John
M
Magus
Guest
Post deleted by posters request
foto_fool
Well-known
Magus: I guess I need to shoot some FP4+! Believe it or not I never have. I've only recently come to slow B/W films.
For me Delta 100 is like a Bordeaux because it is predictable. Neopan 1600 is - like a Burgundy - less predictable, tougher to master and on occasion more rewarding. Just my humble opinion
.
Cheers! - John
For me Delta 100 is like a Bordeaux because it is predictable. Neopan 1600 is - like a Burgundy - less predictable, tougher to master and on occasion more rewarding. Just my humble opinion
Cheers! - John
gavinlg
Veteran
neopan 1600 so far working best for me...
I haven't tried hp5 yet!
I haven't tried hp5 yet!
sepiareverb
genius and moron
John, you don't know slow if you're thinking FP4 is slow. I'm the opposite- just now coming to the fast films- Three Neopan 1600 rolls are out from the freezer yesterday to play with here in the next few days.
FP4 is a really wonderful film, worth the time it might take to 'master', though I've found it is very easy to figure out. If slow is your new game don't forget to try PanF or the efke 25.
FP4 is a really wonderful film, worth the time it might take to 'master', though I've found it is very easy to figure out. If slow is your new game don't forget to try PanF or the efke 25.
gavinlg
Veteran
double post :s
markinlondon
Elmar user
I've got to say I've used a lot of developers on FP4 over the years and I'll be blowed if I've found one that actually makes it look bad. Rodinal was my least favourite but the results were still more than acceptable.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
XTOL/FP4 isn't the greatest in my work, but I've found I don't much like XTOL for small format film.
M
Magus
Guest
Post deleted by posters request
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Anyone have a good source for Tetenal chemistry in the USA? B&H only has Ultrafin, and I would like to see for myself what they can do.
M
Magus
Guest
Post deleted by posters request
psvensson
Member
Ilford Delta 400. Right speed for general use, while much sharper than Tri-X, especially in solvent developers like D-76. Also more fine-grained, pretty much regardless of developer. Its sensitometric "curve" is very straight, again almost regardless of developer, which yields clean-looking natural images (but I can understand those who like the more interpretive and dramatic look of Tri-X and in particular XP2, which both have S-shaped curves). It's pretty much my only film for both 35mm and 120, though I sometimes use Delta 3200 for speed.
I develop it in a homebrew metol-ascorbic acid developer (derived from the formulas of Patrick Gainer) which yields fantastically fine-grained and sharp images, at the price of some speed loss.
I develop it in a homebrew metol-ascorbic acid developer (derived from the formulas of Patrick Gainer) which yields fantastically fine-grained and sharp images, at the price of some speed loss.
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