Which M?

[NL2377]

I'm thinking about purchasing an M come january when my scholarships run back around, but I'm not quite sure what exactly all of the differences are between them, and which would best suit me. My budget varies according to whether or not I get all of my wants/needs satisfied... but Im looking at something between $600 and $1000.

As My SLR setup consists of 20, 24, 28, 35, 50, 105, and an 80-200, I would like to go for some of the more obscure lengths to fill out my focal length gaps. So I am looking for a body that can handle a 40mm (my fav focal length) and either a 75 or a 90 for portraiture.

Now I would love to have TTL, but I'm guessing that's out of my price range, and I already have a decent light meter (Gossen Digipro F) so I don't really need it... it would be more for kicks then anything else.

As far as aesthetics are concerned. My Fav M's are the ones w/ the tilted rewind knob. there's something about them that I absolutely adore.

I really don't know what the .68 or .72, or whatever the different numbers are, mean, so If I could have some guidance towards that, and which would be sufficient for my needs, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks In advance for helping out!

 

[rbiemer]

Nicholas,
Here is a good overview of the M cameras:http://cameraquest.com/mguide.htm
I am not any kind of expert in these but am getting ready to get my own first Leica and Mr. Gandy's page has been very helpful.
Rob

 

[EmilGil]

Sounds like an M4 of some kind would be your cup of tea. Original one or M4-2 with 4 frames (35, 50, 90, 135), M4-P with six frames (28, 35, 50, 75, 90, 135). They all have the angled rewind knob. They can be found well within range of your budget, the most expensive one being the original M4.

 

[PHOTOEIL]

low budget : buy Canada made stuff (M4-2, M4-P) and M2 (Wetzlar).
Normal budget : buy M3, M4 AND M5.
High budget : buy M6, Wetzlar or Solms, M7 (used).
Super budget : buy new
When it comes on picture taking, they are all about the same, plus minus.
Do not care for scratches or little dents, a well used and cared of body is better than one from a safe deposit vault. Camera's, even Leica's, are made to be used, they happen to be (good) tools.
Of course this is my very personal opinion... and on the web you will find far more and better info.
I can not speak for the screw mount Leica's.

Good luck,

 

[NL2377]

Thanks for the advice... After reading SG's site, the M4-2 and other canada variations and models after that, don't seem too appealing to me, since according to steve, leica went to a replace rather then adjust mentality. Personally I'm a fine tuning man, myself (though I know nothing about CLA's or any of the sort.) so something along the lines of an M4, M3, or M2, sound more like what I'd be interested in.

In regards to the loading and rewinding times, how much faster is an M4 then say an M3 or M2? I like the Idea of having the wider baseline rf of the M3, but I don't know that it will make THAT much of a diff, seeing as though I'm used to shooting w/ barnacks whose baselines are much shorter.

 

[Kyle]

The M3/M2 rewind style can be a bit annoying sometimes, but overall its not that bad and I don't think its that slow. You get used to it. I'd go for a good M2 since you get the 35/50/90 frames, which are more useful than the M3s 50/90/135. Plus M4's seem to be overpriced and M2s are more reasonable. If you go with any of these cameras, you won't be disappointed.

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request

 

[LADP]

I would have suggested an MP except for two things you mentioned... budget and angled rewing crank.

They're all great, but with tongue in cheek I would say, you can get an MP now, or get an MP later, but eventually you will want an MP.

I actually traded out my M6 for an MP largely because I didn't want the angled rewind crank. The angled rewind crank extends beyond the rest of the body on the left side. The problem with that is that if you put your camera away in a bag with the left side down, you are putting some pressure on that angled shaft, and it could potentially bend the shaft over time or possibly with one hard setting down of the bag. With the old style lift up knob, this isn't a concern as it doesn't extend past the left side of the body. The tradeoff is that it takes a little longer to rewind you roll unless you get the above mentioned lever adapter. The problem with that is that it will mar the pull up knob with the set screw. Artorius mentions one that won't, though I haven't seen that one. That sounds cool.

Since I'm not shooting in war zones where every second counts, I am willing to take an extra 30 seconds or so to rewind my film. Just my opinion, YMMV.

 

[Ronald M]

Make to fit is how all modern manufacturing is done. It is cheaper and easier to make the parts so they fit properly. Adjusting was from the old days when machines could not hold the proper tolerences.

That said there was great craftmanship in M2/3/4 models. They also have age related issues even if they have never been used.

You would not purchase a new untitled 1955 auto and expect it to run out of the showroom. This is not much different.

 

[gregg]

I've shot with the M2, M4-P and M6-TTL - for me none are as usable as the M6 Classic. I don't need TTL (bought on a whim) and everything else is just perfect. I used a friends MP on loan and can't say I was swayed to thinking I would "need" the MP eventually - actually bought a second M6 Classic body after the experience. $950-$1200 USD is the going price for these bodies relatively new (10-15 years old) and in good shape. Best of luck!

 

[PHOTOEIL]

I actually traded out my M6 for an MP largely because I didn't want the angled rewind crank. The angled rewind crank extends beyond the rest of the body on the left side. The problem with that is that if you put your camera away in a bag with the left side down, you are putting some pressure on that angled shaft, and it could potentially bend the shaft over time or possibly with one hard setting down of the bag. With the old style lift up knob, this isn't a concern as it doesn't extend past the left side of the body. The tradeoff is that it takes a little longer to rewind you roll unless you get the above mentioned lever adapter. The problem with that is that it will mar the pull up knob with the set screw. Artorius mentions one that won't, though I haven't seen that one. That sounds cool.

Since I'm not shooting in war zones where every second counts, I am willing to take an extra 30 seconds or so to rewind my film. Just my opinion, YMMV.

Have a look at the M5 rewind crank, not bad at all.

 

[drewbarb]

I smashed up the angled rewind crank of my old M4P and broke a shaft on an M6 before I figured out that I prefer the M3 and M2 finders anyway. The older style rewind knob has never given me problems. In terms of speed, I don't think it's much slower than a crank- besides, there are no pictures worth taking while I'm changing film, to steal a phrase.

If I were to want a rewind lever for the M3/2/P knob, I'd get one-that fully encloses the knob, such as the now-discontinued Wasserman crank or the old "Magnum" design. I think twice about new Leica MP design.

 

[Goodyear]

As far as winding and reloading goes, I have an M2 and an M6 and my experiences areas follows:

Rewinding with the M2 doesn't take much longer than with the M6 - certainly, I've never found it to be an issue.

Loading is a slightly different story. Loading the M2 is a little fiddly (I have yet to find the rapidload kit - they're like hen's teeth), but I can load the M6 faster than any camera I've ever used, with the possible exception of my wife's motor-driven SLR that does it for you. Actually, I still reckon I can load my M6 faster than she can load that...

But the M2.... the loading is not the big deal some would have you believe, and in my estimation it is by far the better-made camera

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request

 

[DriesI]

0.58 or 0.72?

0.58 or 0.72?

I really don't know what the .68 or .72, or whatever the different numbers are, mean, so If I could have some guidance towards that, and which would be sufficient for my needs, it would be greatly appreciated.

I am lusting for an M as well, and had my mind set on a new (you only live once) black paint MP 0.58.
This because I wear glasses, and I use 50 and 35 lenses.

But now I see the MP3 set Tony Rose has to offer...
it has a 0.72 viewfinder.

As I have never looked through a 0.58 viewfinder, I would like to hear some experiences of glasses wearers.
Is the 50 mm frame too small? If you work with a 0.72, how do you experience the limitations while using a 35?

Should I opt for comfortable framelines overview, or should I opt for the unique and sexy MP3?


thanks in advance for your thoughts...

 

[markinlondon]

I am lusting for an M as well, and had my mind set on a new (you only live once) black paint MP 0.58.
This because I wear glasses, and I use 50 and 35 lenses.

But now I see the MP3 set Tony Rose has to offer...
it has a 0.72 viewfinder.

As I have never looked through a 0.58 viewfinder, I would like to hear some experiences of glasses wearers.
Is the 50 mm frame too small? If you work with a 0.72, how do you experience the limitations while using a 35?

Should I opt for comfortable framelines overview, or should I opt for the unique and sexy MP3?


thanks in advance for your thoughts...

I wear glasses and can see the 35 frame in my M6 and M2 (both .72) but not much outside. The 50 frame is fine in both. The M2 has more accurate (slightly larger) 35 & 50 frame than the M6, I suspect the same would go for the MP3. My glasses are quite close fitting titanium frames.

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request

 

[venchka]

...

Normal budget : AND M5.
...

Good luck,

I have held 2 and bought 1 that fit into your budget.

 

[venchka]

...That said there was great craftmanship in M2/3/4 models.

and the M5.

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request