Which Nikkors to compliment a 50/1.4?

Getting Nikkors ought to be easy! They made millions.
Go for the 28mm f3,5, i like a 35mm have the 2.8(very sharp said not by testers..) the 35mm f2, not as sharp(mine is battered), the 105 f2,5 a legend. i also have a 135mm f3,5 Nikkor, its really nice. The sharpest lens i have the 55mm Micro-Nikkor f3,5! Also the original 45mm pancake.
My special lens, a 200mmf3,5 Takumar, made to fit Nikon by Magnum Photographer, Ian Berry. a stunning HEAVY and BIG lens..
 
I generally work with a two body set up.
50mm. F/1.2 on F2
Either 24mm or 105mm. Depending on the subject type on Nikkormat.
Intermediate or longer Nikkors as needed.
The general principle is that each lens has either half or twice the angle of the 50mm.
 
Nikkors I have loved, and some I have left

Nikkors I have loved, and some I have left

First, I should explain my biases.
1) I like physically smaller lenses. Easier to manipulate, and carry.
2) I like minimal distortion. Unfortunately, most Nikkor wide angle lenses have barrel distortion.
3) Flare resistance is nice to have.
4) Macro and telephoto photography is where SLRs shine in comparison to the rangefinder camera.
5) Nice bokeh in the background

Here's my experiences with the following focal lengths:

20 f/3.5 AIS - very tiny, sharp in the center. Less sharp in the corners wide open, but it does get sharp by about f/8. Some barrel distortion. FLARE RESISTANT! This was the only lens that I used when I visited Taliesin West (Frank Lloyd Wright) in Arizona. I could even get the AZ sun into the picture with no flare or ghosting. With the titanium shutter of your Nikon camera, you don't have to worry about burning a hole in your shutter. Don't put your retina in harm's way by looking in the finder with the sun in the picture, however.

24 f/2.8 AI - This one flares easily if light is in the field. Barrel distortion. Has CRC and is sharp, but the distortion and flare make it not my preferred lens. I still own it, but I never use it.

28 f/2.8 AIS - Super sharp, has CRC. Minimum focus distance makes it almost a macro lens. NO DISTORTION! This is the magic lens compared to the 24mm.

35mm f/1.4 AIS. Nikon doesn't make great 35mm lenses. That conclusion lead me to Leica with the incredible 35 Summicron ASPH 😀. However, of the 35mm lenses that are Nikkors, the 1.4 AIS is probably the best. It has CRC, but the barrel distorion is extreme up close. Don't use this to photograph women - it makes them look "fat". Otherwise, at a reasonable distance, between f/2 and f/8 this lens is really sharp.

I did try the f/2 and f/2.8 versions of the 35mm lenses. The f/2 are somewhat spotty in quality, and not so good close up. The f/2.8 that I had was a horrible dog.

45 f/2.8 AIP - unusual little Tessar lens introduced with the FM3a. It is uncommon, and costs a lot due to its rarity. No distortion, flare resistant (only 4 elements). However, as with all Tessars it vignettes visibly until stopped down to f/5.6.

50mm f/2 or f/1.8 non-AI, AI, AIS, AF Some incredible optics for not much money. No distortion (very mild barrel at minimum focus), and sharp. Neutral bokeh.

The 50 f/1.4 was a lens that I never got along with, though I've owned it about 4 times in the past. The visible barrel distortion and the ugly bokeh in the background really turned me off.

55mm f/2.8 Micro AIS - This macro lens is the sharpest of the 50mm range lenses in manual focus, that you can also use as an everyday lens. Sharp from macro to infinity (due to CRC), with no distortion. I often use this as my standard lens. It has a deeply recessed front element, so very flare resistant. It focuses to 1:2 by itself, and requires an extension tube to get to 1:1.

60mm f/2.8 Micro AF - more expensive, plastic bodied version of the above. Possibly a bit sharper in the macro range than the 55, and it will go to 1:1 by itself without an extension ring. However, it is much bulkier, and I probably should have bought the 55 in the first place and not bought this one. There is very little space on the focus ring towards infinity, so using this as an everyday normal lens is problematic.

85mm f/2 AIS: I've had two. One was really excellent, the other was less so. You'll have to try a few to get a really good one. Nikon makes excellent telephoto lenses, so you have a lot of choices. I don't own any of the 85mm lenses, as they are too similar to my 105. If I was to get an 85, it would probably be the huge 1.4 - that is a special lens.

105 f/2.5 AIS. I have the double - Gauss version with the pull-out hood. It has some residual spherical aberration for smooth bokeh wide open. By about f/4, it is sharp as a tack. This lens has a long focus throw near infinity. I made the mistake of scale focusing it on infinity and taking a picture of a locomotive about 100 feet away. It was not sharp. On closer examination, 100 feet is not infinity with this lens. You need to watch your focusing screen very carefully with this lens to make sure that you have the exact plane that you want in focus.

I've noticed that the Nikkor 50mm f/2 HC and Leica Summicron 50 also exhibit this discrimination at long distances. Even 200 feet isn't infinity for these lenses. You need to really get the focus right.

70-180 Micro Nikkor f/4.5 - 5.6 The world's only zooming true macro lens. It almost reaches 1:1 on its own. You need to add the 6T doublet lens to get to 1:1. Not very popular when it was released in the 1990s, it is now a highly desired collectable (along with the doublet). The lens is super sharp, and the zooming feature makes macro framing so much easier when in the field. It's the only zoom lens that I own, but now super expensive if you can even find one for sale.

135 f/2 DC - a special medium telephoto lens with bokeh control! This is my current lust object.

180 f/2.8 ED AIS - super sharp, distortion free. Also, bulky and heavy. For such a large lens it has NO tripod mount. It puts all the strain on your camera's lens mount. These reasons lead me to get rid of it. Instead, the 200 f/4 is also very sharp, in a much more compact package. However, I do find the 200mm range too much for everyday, and not telephoto enough when you need the reach. Thus, my tending to look into the 135 DC, and I don't own the 200mm lens anymore.

300mm f/4 ED-IF AF: this is an incredibly sharp telephoto lens. It comes with a really poor (unstable) tripod collar. I've replaced mine with one from Kirk. RRS also makes a good tripod collar for this lens. With the 1.4X teleconverter added, and extension rings behind it, it makes a killer 420mm macro lens. Needless to say, you need a strong, rigid tripod to really make the most of this lens. The lens is somewhat long, but not heavy for its size.
 
I forgot to add that I did have the 50mm f/1.2 for a while. However, it is very sensitive to the focus plane and it has curvature of field. So, you cannot focus using the center of the screen with its focus aids (split image RF, microprism), then recompose. Putting the subject off to one side will throw off its focus at f/1.2. It has visible barrel distortion also. Bokeh was better than the f/1.4 lens.
 
Sparrow6224, thanks for the excellent Nikkor lens essay!

For the OP, for your FE and FM cameras:
- Important: You want AI, AI-converted, or AIS lenses.
- My favorites: 35mm f/2 (any of above), 28mm f/2.8 AIS, 55 f/3.5 Micro, and 105 f/2.5.

For the 28mm f/2.8, the AIS is superb and any others are good but not superb. The AIS lens was a new design with close-range correction.

For comparative evaluations of these classic Nikkors by a very serious photographer, I recommend Bjorn Rorslett's original site http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html#top1
 
The Vivitar is more known as being "the medical zoom". It was too expensive when it was sold as a flat field lens and now it is in demand, but it is not a rare lens like the ostly Nikkor.
 
I've bookmarked this page.
Hope that gets me back to it when I;m a bit more sober - it's Saturday night here and I've just acquired (you wouldn't belivee how hard it is to hit the "c" for axquired instead of the "x") a D600, and can hardly read the mamual.
Peter M, Sparrow(Vince), Robert, Raid et al.
Such good posts.
Advice to treasure.
Take bnote of it young man!
 
Oh boy oh boy. Have I been down this road. I LOVE the FE by the way; much more than the FE2. Indeed I love my FE so much I've just decided to sell my big F3. I like the FE more.
...

Clearly I've enjoyed myself thinking about this. Too much....

X2. I've used most of this lenses mentioned by Sparrow and agree. Very good synopsis. My ideal kit would be a 20, 35, & 105...

You might consider the AF-Ds for the 20/2.8 and 35f2. They are plasticy, but the "D" are generally the same or better glass than the AIS (excepting the 28mm), but can bridge between old film cameras and new DSLRs for AF.

-Charlie
 
50, 85, 105, 180 mm ... I tend to prefer a normal to long focal length with SLR cameras, leaving wide to portrait to the RF cameras.

Back in the day when the FM was my only camera for a while, my kit was 20, 35, 85. I added 50, 105, 180 later, long with a second body.
 
I've bookmarked this page.
Hope that gets me back to it when I;m a bit more sober - it's Saturday night here and I've just acquired (you wouldn't belivee how hard it is to hit the "c" for axquired instead of the "x") a D600, and can hardly read the mamual.
Peter M, Sparrow(Vince), Robert, Raid et al.
Such good posts.
Advice to treasure.
Take bnote of it young man!

I'm not so young, but I've definitely been taking note. I watched two 28/2.8 lenses go for $200 and $290 on eBay. Eeek!
 
Beware of rear element lens scratches on the 28 2.8 AIS

Beware of rear element lens scratches on the 28 2.8 AIS

Hi thought I should warn you folks who are thinking of buying this optic used that you need to carefully examine the rear element in oblique lighting. The rear element bulges beyond the metal parts of the lens. If someone sets the lens down without a rear cap (WHY would you ever do that???), then the rear element will be scratched.:bang:

After seeing innumerable used lenses with this flaw, I finally bought a new one from B&H.

The flow for a lens change is:
1) front cap the lens
2) dismount, place lens front down
3) rear cap.
 
Couldn't agree more... the razor's edge !

I'll second that. The 28/3.5 is a real sleeper.

I also have an FE and find that the 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/3.5, 85/1.8, 105/2.5 and 80-200/4.5 cover almost all the bases.

I would love to add a 24/2.8 if I could find one cheap but if I never do I won't sweat it.
 
I recommend the 24mm f/2.8 AiS not the f/2... Yes the f/2 is faster, but the f/2.8 is better corrected, and very sharp at f/2.8!

And the f/2.8 is near perfect in distortion correction.


Monument Circle, Indianapolis, 7-5-2012 by Peter Arbib, on Flickr




Around Monument Circle 4-24-2012 by Peter Arbib, on Flickr


Digital as Film by Peter Arbib, on Flickr

NO Distortion correction was used!

Just saying, and the a 105 f/2.5. not sure on which version....But, the FM can take all variety's....
because you can raise the Ai Pin out of the way.
The reason I got an FE! I have a few Non-Ai lenses.
 
You might consider the AF-Ds for the 20/2.8 and 35f2. They are plasticy, but the "D" are generally the same or better glass than the AIS (excepting the 28mm), but can bridge between old film cameras and new DSLRs for AF.

That may be true generally, but the 35mm f/2 D is a different optical formula and not as good as the manual focus versions of the lens. The D lens is sharp in the center but weak in the corners.

For references see http://photozone.de and Bjorn's lens comments.

I use my 35 D on AF bodies, but for the OP with an FE and FM, I think the manual focus 35's are a better bet.
 
That may be true generally, but the 35mm f/2 D is a different optical formula and not as good as the manual focus versions of the lens. The D lens is sharp in the center but weak in the corners.

For references see
http://photozone.de and Bjorn's lens comments.

I use my 35 D on AF bodies, but for the OP with an FE and FM, I think the manual focus 35's are a better bet.


I have both the AF D version and an early pre AI version that has been converted. Never tested them against each other but I should do that. I have no plans to sell either as both are fine lenses. Usually WAs are shot stopped down so the corner issues of the later lens are not so manifest. If used in dim conditions and shot open the issue tends not to arise so much either as corners are seldom so important in this situation.
 
I'm getting a bit ahead of myself and off topic, but humor me... Are any of the discontinued Voigtlander SLR AI mount lenses worthy of consideration, or are they more intended for crop sensor DSLR cameras?
 
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