Which one for me: M5, M6 or M7?

I had an M6 Classic (a few years ago) and then M7 (about 1.5 years ago). Recently, I purchased another M6 Classic. It is the primo RF for me (though I have never used an M5). I didn't need the M7's auto-exposure and much prefer the size and weight of the M6 Classic. Perfect IMHO.
 
All are good. The M5 tends to be underpriced, and is the best value for the money.

Cheers,
Dez

Weeellllll as long as it does not need any work done to it. That can rapidly kill the best value aspect. But then again, when you are getting the best, it's worth it.
 
It seems that the most common problem with the M5 is a corroded contact for the cell powering the meter, rendering it inoperable. This is actually an easy DIY fix, and I have repaired a couple of M5's with this problem. If you do take the top plate off though, it's pretty intimidating, and you need to be extremely careful not to damage the meter or the various devices that provide the display in the VF.
Repair work on any M can get staggeringly expensive very quickly, the M5 maybe worse than the others, as there are fewer techs willing to work on them because of the above.

Cheers,
Dez
 
There's already tons of great info and opinions in this thread. I thought I'd chime in real quick and say I was in the exact same position about 3 months ago. I had ditched all my Nikon equipment and wanted to go back to a simple one camera setup for 35mm, specifically a metered Leica.

I ended up going the M6 Classic route and am really glad I did so. The M5, though built like a tank, was just too big in my hands (needed to be a good travel companion), and I ultimately wrote off the M7 after much debate because I really didn't need the AE function. Though AE is nice to have, I too wanted a robust camera with the least amount of electronics that I could get away with. Turns out my favorite Nikon body has been the FM2 (fully mechanical and no AE). My AE Nikon bodies, never felt quite as satisfying to shoot. Consequently, all equipment issues came from the bodies that had electronically controlled shutters and AE modes. Electronics and time just don't seem to mix, and I wanted to keep this next Leica for years to come.

Finally, it was down to the M6 Classic vs TTL. In the end I would have taken either one, as the smaller shutter speed dial and meter setup on the M6 Classic is not really a big deal to me. I had read so many things online about how the meter arrows point the wrong way and the shutter speed dial is too small and recessed for use with your index finger. As it turns out, the M6 Classic's meter actually totally makes sense once you start using it. I found a better deal on a pristine late model M6 Classic and went for it. I haven't looked back and I don't regret my decision. I just got back from Portugal and shot the camera for 7 days without a hiccup.

Good Luck with your decision!
 
...If you do take the top plate off though, it's pretty intimidating, and you need to be extremely careful not to damage the meter or the various devices that provide the display in the VF.
Repair work on any M can get staggeringly expensive very quickly, the M5 maybe worse than the others, as there are fewer techs willing to work on them because of the above.

In addition to the issues dealing with the complexity of the M5, most techs (at least in the US and UK) have stopped working on the M5 because parts are getting very scarce. Sherry Krauter bought all remaining parts stock from Leica USA when they ceased offering repairs on the M5 in 2015.

Having said that, the excellent frame lines, the bright viewfinder and terrific spot meter on the M5 make it arguably the best low light shooting M film body available.
 
You already got your film back to confirm that?


😀

(Just cuz I'm jealous I wasn't in Portugal..)

Haha! Touche Huss. Well, no not exactly. I have four rolls going out to theFind Lab this week, but I had about 10 frames left on a roll of Tri-X when I arrived and self-developed the roll yesterday. Everything looked dandy there....so fingers crossed on the rest.
 
I am sole voice(almost) of dissent!
In my old cameras somehow collected,
it's the electronics that have failed.
This is Not the only Leica forum.
On LFI, there were discussions concerning a M7.
It seems not many service people are able to fully repair the M7!
Special equipment reqd. should the curtains be damaged,
requiring re-set of shutter speeds.
Shutter curtains do fail.
My M3 reqd. a new drum and re-set ,plus new curtains.
The M5 is "known" for a problem with meter readings..
The meter keeps moving! Is folks know cause, say.
My M6TTL is 15 years old, no service yet.
I hate the viewfinder.
"Guess finder" with 50mm. 😡
It is badly inaccurate. Tested with my M3, M2 and tripod.
You have worked with Contax, I guess no meter.
Get a M2, M4, M4-2, or M4-P.
I love my M3, most used, but like me, old.
 
. . . .Let me answer three ways.

1) It does not matter. Get the least expensive working camera you can and start shooting.

2) M6. M5's are great but too old; M7's are great but too electronic. Electronics are, in my experience, the Achilles' heel of Leicas. My M5 needed a new metering/battery connection, my M6 needed its entire metering circuit board replaced after about 10 years of being ridden pretty hard, my M7 arrived with its "cassette reading" ISO pins, not functioning, My R4 needed its magnets and switches (shutter controls) replaced. Nothing purely mechanical has ever spontaneously gone wrong with my Leicas -- not even rangefinder misalignment and I have been using them since 1991. So: M6. Old, but not too old, and at the current sweet spot in terms of dollars vs. life-left-per-unit and parts availability etc. Also, M6 works fine without batteries.

3) You haven't said how you like to shoot or what lenses/focal lengths are your favorites. If 21 or wider, the M5 is out, as deeply recessed lens elements interfere with the metering arm. Ditto all collapsible lenses (when collapsed). If 90mm or longer (or 50/f:1 or faster), only the M6 TTL comes in a variant with an 0.85 finder. If you shoot a lot of contra-jour (into the sun or other light source), the finder in the M5 has superior flare resistance. If you need a spot meter, the M5 is the closest. If you need AE, then the M7 is the only choice. Very large hands: M5 (maybe) but try to hold one and see. I have medium sized hands and all three were/are very comfortable to shoot. Fit and finish is arguably highest on the M5 (last of the hand fitted Leicas), but I never noticed the difference, along with nifty M5 plusses like a ratcheted rewind crank. Need a Rapidwinder or Autowinder? M6 or M7, but no M5.

Finally, I have owned all three. I sold the M7 a year after getting it. Not because it wasn't great, once the auto-ISO feature was fixed, but because it was the most valuable camera I had and I needed to raise money for an M8. The accuracy of the M7 shutter was great in concept, but made no difference in my results (and when you get right down to it most film doesn't meaningfully register exposure discrepancies of less than 1/3 stop except in the most technical applications). Next to go was an M6 TTL. Wonderful camera, but once again in its condition it was the best way to raise money (spent on a puppy, not on camera gear). Also, when I use a flash, I use a handheld meter, so the TTL feature was wasted on me. Still left in the stable: M6 Classic, M5, M3 (2x), M2, CL (2x).

Which brings me back to point number 1. The little secret about Leicas is this: it's the lenses, stupid (I say this to myself only). I don't really think that the camera doesn't matter. But in the end? It's the lenses. And they will go on anything with an M-mount.
 
The M5 is "known" for a problem with meter readings..
The meter keeps moving! Is folks know cause, say.

Maybe a wrong battery is used. The meter of my M5 is a joy to use.

I also have problems with the 50mm frames from M6, M6TTL, M7 and MP (new). Leica will do a lot of people a favor when they offer the possibility to change these frames with those of the M2.

Erik.
 
For several years I extensively tested my M5 with original Mercury and CRIS adapter in every conceivable lighting situation.

In every case the readings were absolutely identical. I was therefore convinced.
 
In my eyes, three factors come to mind: price, haptics, and AE. Per haptics, the M6 Classic is the best of any camera I have ever used.
 
Of the three I've always preferred the M6 Classic, but I'm starting to come around to the idea of a M7 instead - I've gotten really used to shooting in aperture priority with exposure lock with my other cameras. Plus, no worries about shutter burns.
 
Haha! Touche Huss. Well, no not exactly. I have four rolls going out to theFind Lab this week, but I had about 10 frames left on a roll of Tri-X when I arrived and self-developed the roll yesterday. Everything looked dandy there....so fingers crossed on the rest.

Thefindlab is great for C41, I use them all the time. I switch to northcoastphoto for E6 or real B&W as they are great too, but much cheaper for those two processes.

Of course we now expect you to post pics from Portugal!
 
I've never owned the M5, but have owned 2 M6's and an M7. I eventually sold the M7 and kept one of my M6's. If I were looking, and looking for reliability, ease of use, and minimal reliance on batteries, I'd highly recommend the M6. If AE is of interest, I guess you have a different choice, but for me, the AE was useful on the M7, but not so impressive that I couldn't live without it.
 
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