Which SLR allows consistent handheld steady and slow shutterspeed ?

Canon EOS 1N-RS. I've used that camera to handhold shots down to a second. It's amazing for action panning. They are pretty inexpensive these days when you can find one. Built like tanks too. Mine was very reliable.

Phil Forrest
 
Just to add to what others have said, mass helps. But more recent high-end cameras also tend to have more sophisticated counterbalance and damping systems.Modern high-end DSLRs really show this progress.
 
My Minolta SRT's work pretty well at slower exposures; I can do 1/15 or 1/8 in a pinch. Shooting multipleframes, if it is a repeatable event, is a good idea. Relaxing and bracing, of course. Like firing a target rifle.

It's more technique and self-control than choice of camera body.
 
It's technique and a camera with some mass IMO. I regularly use my D700 at speeds below 1/20 and get acceptable sharpness. I often crouch down and brace the camera on my right knee ... sort of an organic monopod! :D

Or I'll find something to lean against for bracing.

The mirror black out doesn't bother me ... from the moment I press that shutter I've decided on what I wanted to capture and a moments black out in the finder isn't going to change the end result!
 
The Contax RX and Aria have very smooth shutter and Mirror action. I've had great luck over the years with those two cameras in low light and slow speeds often to 1/15.
 
thanks much for all the responses. i will probably practice on the pellix a bit more at 1/15 and try even 1/8. It seems that a heavier body + technique are key here.
 
You don't need any particular camera for slow speed shooting, you simply need a steady hand. You can use the same technique with a camera which you use with a firearm; a good stance, proper breathing technique, and a smooth and light push on the shutter button.

A heavier camera (like a heavier firearm) is steadier than a light camera. A motor drive with batteries installed can give you a steadier camera, and even better balance, and the added weight also reduces the amount of vibration caused by the shutter (if you are shooting with the motor drive turned off).
 
I tend to agree with Frontman. I know my Minolta XK will give good steady hand held shots at 1/15 but I suspect others will as well. Older Nikons, even Spotmatics, but not my Minolta SRT's.
 
Pretty much what everyone else said. A heavy camera is better, and the less vibration from the shutter and from mirror clatter, the better. For me, it's the Nikon F100, FA, or FE2. The optional battery pack for the F100 adds more mass, and further improves stability. The same goes for motor drives on the other models. All that clatter and bang of the motor occurs after the exposure, not during; while the added mass makes the camera more solid.
 
The EOS RT has the normal mode and RT mode. With the switch set to "RT" it will fire the shutter with the 8 millisecond delay (from memory). A part of the reason it can do this so fast is it will also stop down the aperture when you focus (as soon as the autofocus locks the mechanism stops the lens) and not when you release the shutter. So, if you set the camera to RT mode and focus, the camera has stopped down in advance, the mirror doesn't move--all that happens when you depress the release the rest of the way is the shutter opens and closes. I haven't tried the EOS1-N RS yet, but this would be even better, with many more features. Both RT and 1-N RS were available quite inexpensively from KEH last time I checked, although personally I don't need autofocus very often, so the RT gets little use these days.

But there are certain applications where they are almost unbeatable. I think I may have mentioned once that I took a few fireworks shots three years or so ago. Had an RT loaded with colour neg and an EOS 630 (on which the RT is based) with Provia 100F. It was so much easier to make long exposures with the RT, because you could actually verify that you'd captured the bursts during the exposure and could monitor the framing. With the 630, it was a case of hold the cable release open and hoping for the best... For flash work (as was previously mentioned) you get the benefit of watching the flash fire during the exposure, like a TLR or RF, which can be useful sometimes, too.

The RT/RS mirror bounces 2/3 of a stop of light up to the finder as I recall. So ISO 100 film effectively becomes 64. A friend has a Pellix (as well as an RT). The Pellix was sophisticated for its day, but the viewfinders are chalk and cheese. The RT finder is a lot brighter. And the mirrors have held up well to date and seem to be more robust--I have cleaned mine (carefully) a couple of times with no trouble whatsoever.
Regards,
Brett
 
Keith said:
It's technique and a camera with some mass IMO. I regularly use my D700 at speeds below 1/20 and get acceptable sharpness.
Click to expand...

How does the tiny noble OM compare in this regard to that big ugly beast D700? :D

I just have to know (ordered an OM-1 yesterday)!
 
Anything modern with image stabilization, but I'm thinking the new OM-D, with 6-axis stabilization is probably the winner. My brother told me he was able to shoot a pretty good second and a half exposure with his, and he was VERY surprised. With this kind of technical improvement, any mention of old heavy cameras seems totally out of date.
 
Olympus Pen-F series.
Yes, solid and heavy body helps, but so does a tiny mirror flipping sideways.
 
Over the years I have often taken hand-held shots with my OM1 at 1/15 and even 1/8. Works great. Sometimes I have to take a second shot to make sure. Be very still.
 
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