kb244
Well-known
Edit : I've self-repaired it. Note last post. It was a prism that was no longer held in place by the original glue, back behind the frame line baffles
Youtube Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGmnMZIx2sI
Basically a recent acquisition I got off ebay in excellent condition (short of a dent on one corner that was not mentioned in the auction to which I was given a partial refund).
Everything else *Seemed* ok, till I noticed that the frame lines didn't seem to match up with the film window. But then it seemed like it was fine one time and then worse others.
When test shooting thru the viewfinder, I noticed that the frame lines would sometimes jump or move when the shutter fired. So I kept my eye to the viewfinder and rotated from landscape to portrait to notice that all my frame lines be it the 35, 50, 85/100 or 135 would move/jitter with gravity, sometimes jumping completely to the left (even though right side of camera was pointing down, guessing the frame lines are mirrored). Seller suggested it's probably a parallax error (hence the creation of the smartphone video).
The cost of this camera after the partial refund for the dent is about 100... and since everything else 'seems' to work fine, I'm wondering if it's worth sending it off for repair, or if it's going to end up being a money pit.
Originally I was looking to get a P since I used to have one, and loved that, but the 7 seemed intriguing with the larger viewfinder and the switchable frame lines especially the 35mm one being visible (since I have a Canon Serenar 35/2.8 I can use with it).
So if it would be worth repairing, who in the US can do it? And what's the ballpark?
Youtube Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGmnMZIx2sI
Basically a recent acquisition I got off ebay in excellent condition (short of a dent on one corner that was not mentioned in the auction to which I was given a partial refund).
Everything else *Seemed* ok, till I noticed that the frame lines didn't seem to match up with the film window. But then it seemed like it was fine one time and then worse others.
When test shooting thru the viewfinder, I noticed that the frame lines would sometimes jump or move when the shutter fired. So I kept my eye to the viewfinder and rotated from landscape to portrait to notice that all my frame lines be it the 35, 50, 85/100 or 135 would move/jitter with gravity, sometimes jumping completely to the left (even though right side of camera was pointing down, guessing the frame lines are mirrored). Seller suggested it's probably a parallax error (hence the creation of the smartphone video).
The cost of this camera after the partial refund for the dent is about 100... and since everything else 'seems' to work fine, I'm wondering if it's worth sending it off for repair, or if it's going to end up being a money pit.
Originally I was looking to get a P since I used to have one, and loved that, but the 7 seemed intriguing with the larger viewfinder and the switchable frame lines especially the 35mm one being visible (since I have a Canon Serenar 35/2.8 I can use with it).
So if it would be worth repairing, who in the US can do it? And what's the ballpark?
nukecoke
⚛Yashica
Ha, I'm speechless about how the sellers quibble about the obvious problem. Been there several times.
I took this photo sometime last year when I was cleaning the Canon-7. I could see part of the 50mm frameline when it's on 35mm frame line, or vice versa, don't remember. Anyway the problem was easily fixed: the fork shaped thing in the red circle slides up and down along the screw when the focus ring is turned, and behind it the masks for different frame line have similar structure (can't be seen in the picture but they are there). One of the frameline mask's fork jumped out of the screw, hence the messed up frameline. I put it back and everything turned good as it should be.
I'm not completely sure about your problem but to my it looks like one or more of the frameline mask's fork jumped out of the screw. It should be easy to fix if anyone can open the top plate for you. Whether the price is reasonable or not is another problem. I know people all have families and mouths to feed but basically the repairmen charge a lot even for problem can be solved within 30min.
I encourage you to try to repair it yourself but I'm sure many people would say no to it.
I took this photo sometime last year when I was cleaning the Canon-7. I could see part of the 50mm frameline when it's on 35mm frame line, or vice versa, don't remember. Anyway the problem was easily fixed: the fork shaped thing in the red circle slides up and down along the screw when the focus ring is turned, and behind it the masks for different frame line have similar structure (can't be seen in the picture but they are there). One of the frameline mask's fork jumped out of the screw, hence the messed up frameline. I put it back and everything turned good as it should be.
I'm not completely sure about your problem but to my it looks like one or more of the frameline mask's fork jumped out of the screw. It should be easy to fix if anyone can open the top plate for you. Whether the price is reasonable or not is another problem. I know people all have families and mouths to feed but basically the repairmen charge a lot even for problem can be solved within 30min.
I encourage you to try to repair it yourself but I'm sure many people would say no to it.
Sid836
Well-known
The V shaped spring on the left came off letting the frame lines holder move freely. It is an easy fix as long as that spring has not been broken and its "arms" can still reach the holders on the frame line holder.
kb244
Well-known
I'm assuming you mean where the blue arrow is pointing.
I'll have to think on it. Adjusting the Horz/Vert RF double image is one thing. The moment I start removing parts/covers/etc I'm pretty sure I would forfeit any ability to return the camera.
It's going to be a numbers game for me. For what I got at 100, it seems like a good deal (unless you can find a 7 for under 150 shipped that has everything including those frame lines working). The problem is, finding someone who has the professional expertise and experience to do it, and if they wouldn't' charge more than 50-75 (since CLA'd -ish for 200 total would still be a good deal... *IF* I can get someone to do it).
Edit : I can't seem to find any of the steps leading up to the shutter knob here http://www.ipernity.com/doc/299425/album/733571
Mainly staring down page 5 of the service manual to see if I can wrap my brain around it.
Attachments
kb244
Well-known
It's not a spring. It's the prism in the rear moving about. Will get video/picture shortly
kb244
Well-known
Couple views of the front.
And a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjtZ_z-URwk
Open to suggestions on an adhesive or other means to hold the prism correctly in place.
Would shellac, or some rosin work? (The rosin is thread sealant I use for vintage fountain pens to seal like vacumatics etc, which can be dissolved with some alcohol, and only requires hot water to loosen as opposed to shellac which requires a heat gun. Neither one are CAs so they don't vapor).
Edit: The plan:
EDIT
And Done.
edit: after noting that several parts of the camera were already shellac'd (glass elements to metal mostly) I went ahead and shellac'd the red and the blue lines letting it dry for about an hour before reassembling. Everything seems fine (hardest part was getting the shutter selection dial back in the correct position with the correct ISO and meter reading selected).
Initial test looks good, no movement of the frame lines except when focusing (normal parallax movement). Now the only thing left I gotta do is re-check the rangefinder calibration against the ground glass and see where the actual frame falls vs the projected frame lines.
Going to let it sit for a few more hours to ensure the shellac is fully hardened before messing with it further.
retinax
Well-known
Thank you, kb244, for letting us know about this DIY repair.
I have the same issue.
Can anyone comment on alternatives to shellac? I don't have any around and wouldn't need it for anything else. I think I've read that superglue causes fogging on optics, is that true? Epoxy is a bit too durable, although a very small amount might be the ticket. I also have a sort of contact cement that is for shoe repairs around
. Nail lacquer? Tape? Wedges?
I have the same issue.
Can anyone comment on alternatives to shellac? I don't have any around and wouldn't need it for anything else. I think I've read that superglue causes fogging on optics, is that true? Epoxy is a bit too durable, although a very small amount might be the ticket. I also have a sort of contact cement that is for shoe repairs around
. Nail lacquer? Tape? Wedges?
richardHaw
junk scavenger
Thank you, kb244, for letting us know about this DIY repair.
I have the same issue.
Can anyone comment on alternatives to shellac? I don't have any around and wouldn't need it for anything else. I think I've read that superglue causes fogging on optics, is that true? Epoxy is a bit too durable, although a very small amount might be the ticket. I also have a sort of contact cement that is for shoe repairs around
i use clear nail polish or red lacquer.
nail polish is what we use at the watch repair shop when we run out of loctite threadlocker.
that was in the 1980s so orders take weeks to months to arrive so...retinax
Well-known
i use clear nail polish or red lacquer.
nail polish is what we use at the watch repair shop when we run out of loctite threadlocker.
Thanks, the thing is that the nail lacquers my girl uses take ages to dry and I'd prefer not having something outgas under the top cover after I've reinstalled it. Leaning toward tiny dab of epoxy in a place where it can be filed or cut off if need be.