Soeren
Well-known
Ok Some of you guys really ought to feel guilty now. Seems like I have a Zorki 4 with a J8 lens coming my way. Yeah Im a GAA so what do I do now? Which lenses would be good partners for the Z4 and the J8?
best regards
best regards
Veloman
Recently infected w. RF
I'm sorry, so sorry (for you)!
Well, if you would like something wider, there is the Jupiter-12. If you prefer portraits, take the Jupiter-9, for more reach grab the Jupiter-11! I cannot help you, you'll need a turret finder, too!
One advice though: stop thinking about the characteristics of different 50 mm lenses!
One advice though: stop thinking about the characteristics of different 50 mm lenses!
Soeren
Well-known
Whoahh, they are different?? I need one of each?
Hmm those two lenses where in my mind when I started the thread so Im not that far of. Any sample pics from the j9 and j12? And where do I find the turret finder ?
Best regards
Hmm those two lenses where in my mind when I started the thread so Im not that far of. Any sample pics from the j9 and j12? And where do I find the turret finder ?
Best regards
Crazy Fedya
Well-known
You can look here;
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114319
For samples of J12.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114319
For samples of J12.
Soeren
Well-known
Thanks for the link. Seems there are not many good WA lenses from russia, right?
Do I really need a finder for the 85mm or can I learn to frame in the camerafinder without to many errors? How much less does it cover than the 50mm?
Best regards
Do I really need a finder for the 85mm or can I learn to frame in the camerafinder without to many errors? How much less does it cover than the 50mm?
Best regards
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Thanks for the link. Seems there are not many good WA lenses from russia, right?
Well, the USSR makers (and pretty much anybody except for Leitz) did not invest in RF lens designs any more after the SLR breakthrough in the early sixties. Which coincides with the period in which wide angles started to gain popularity - given the pictorial tastes and available film resolution prior to that time, wide angles were generally considered special application "architectural interiors" lenses for large format use earlier on.
Thanks to that, there are not many good small format decidedly wide angle lenses from the pre SLR period regardless of origin - most Contax lenses shorter than 35mm were only made in two or three digit numbers, and likewise, the bulk of wider LTM lenses are from the period when LTM bodies were already exiting the market.
As a matter of fact, the USSR lens makers even had a wide angle of their own invention that set global standards for later wide angle construction, the Russar - and they produced far more of that than Zeiss ever made of their similarly wide lenses.
But regardless whether the normal/superwide ratio was a hundred or a thousand to one for a given maker or nation of makers, classic lenses wider than 28mm are extremely rare by modern standards, where that ratio among primes is closer to one in five - which beyond fashion is at least partially due to the normals having been replaced by zooms in more pedestrian use.
konicaman
konicaman
Jupiter 12, Jupiter 9
Velkommen i klubben - det kan kun gå ned af bakke fra nu af, men FSU'er er ikke bare vanedannende; de er også ganske underholdende! Hyg dig
Velkommen i klubben - det kan kun gå ned af bakke fra nu af, men FSU'er er ikke bare vanedannende; de er også ganske underholdende! Hyg dig
Soeren
Well-known
Hej konicaman
Hvor i landet befinder du dig og hvilke FSU kameraer bruger du.
Er du også på APUG?
Mvh Søren
Hvor i landet befinder du dig og hvilke FSU kameraer bruger du.
Er du også på APUG?
Mvh Søren
Soeren
Well-known
Turns out the shutter is way off. I contacted the dealer so now its waitng time again. Hmm have anybody in europe ever dealt with Fedka?
Edit
Strange
Best regards
wolves3012
Veteran
Loosen the two tiny screws in the periphery of the speed dial - they're about 120 degrees away from the scribed line. Turn the dial to the correct position and re-tighten them. Be careful, don't undo them any more than needed - if they fall out you'll lose them.Edit
Strangeit turns out the shutter does work but the dial is misaligned or reassempled so the 1/1000 speed is somewhere around B. How do I take it of andput it back on right.
Best regards
Soeren
Well-known
Thanks wolves3012.
Found the B setting loosened the screvs and repositioned the dial and now that is working like a charm. Looks like an amateur has been playing camera repair man so Im curious to what surprises it has waiting for me.
About loading film.
I see why the filmleader has to be narrow but why so long?
best regards
Found the B setting loosened the screvs and repositioned the dial and now that is working like a charm. Looks like an amateur has been playing camera repair man so Im curious to what surprises it has waiting for me.
About loading film.
I see why the filmleader has to be narrow but why so long?
best regards
wolves3012
Veteran
The camera takes the normal, "modern" leader without trimming so you have no need to trim or alter anything. Not sure where you've seen otherwise, trimming only applies to the bottom-loaded cameras.Thanks wolves3012.
Found the B setting loosened the screvs and repositioned the dial and now that is working like a charm. Looks like an amateur has been playing camera repair man so Im curious to what surprises it has waiting for me.
About loading film.
I see why the filmleader has to be narrow but why so long?
best regards
DominikDUK
Well-known
Now you go out and shoot some pictures with the camera. And before buying additional lenses try to get a feel for the camera. I think that like early Leicas and the Contax a Zorki is best used with the standard lens. You don't need a tele or wide angle lens god gave you two feet or a wheelchair. I admit that I bought a pre-war 4/90mm Elmar for my Zorki and it works wonderfully. The Turret finder is a great tool I even use for my 50mm Jupiter and the original viewfinder as RF finder only.
Have Fun
Dominik
Have Fun
Dominik
Soeren
Well-known
The camera takes the normal, "modern" leader without trimming so you have no need to trim or alter anything. Not sure where you've seen otherwise, trimming only applies to the bottom-loaded cameras.
Ahh ok its just that the manual implied the long leader(pictures). Upon closer inspection of the takeup spool in good light I can see what you mean.
Im surprised how easy it is to focus. hope it is calibrated. framing is a bit harder though (I wear glasses and the diopterthing is not of much use) but Ill get used to it.
Now its time for a testroll
gotta get me a working scanner.
Soeren
Well-known
Now you go out and shoot some pictures with the camera.
Dominik
Hey take it easy Im on it
And before buying additional lenses try to get a feel for the camera. I think that like early Leicas and the Contax a Zorki is best used with the standard lens. You don't need a tele or wide angle lens god gave you two feet or a wheelchair. I admit that I bought a pre-war 4/90mm Elmar for my Zorki and it works wonderfully. The Turret finder is a great tool I even use for my 50mm Jupiter and the original viewfinder as RF finder only.
Yeah It'lll probably be a while before I go for the 85mm but I think I want one. Funny how I take a different aproach to photography using that ollady, or is it Babushka? compared to using my SLR's or even the TLR (another different aproach)
Have Fun
Dominik
I will and allready have.
Soeren
Well-known
It's alive. It's alive 
So far shutterspeeds ok, Negs seem sharp though loupe and no signs of pinholes yet
Think it passes the test and d..... it is fun to use.
Only thing is the framing. I think I have something to work with there since some of my negs didn't come out just as I remember the scene.
That old -63 did good.
One thing. How do I tighten the aperture? It is very loose. And how do you guys get around doing slow shutterspeeds handheld? That Z4 trigger is somewhat stiff.
Best regards
So far shutterspeeds ok, Negs seem sharp though loupe and no signs of pinholes yet
Think it passes the test and d..... it is fun to use.
Only thing is the framing. I think I have something to work with there since some of my negs didn't come out just as I remember the scene.
That old -63 did good.
One thing. How do I tighten the aperture? It is very loose. And how do you guys get around doing slow shutterspeeds handheld? That Z4 trigger is somewhat stiff.
Best regards
wolves3012
Veteran
Glad it all works. The Z-4 isn't noted for deadly accurate framing, something you'll have to learn or get an external finder.It's alive. It's alive
So far shutterspeeds ok, Negs seem sharp though loupe and no signs of pinholes yet
Think it passes the test and d..... it is fun to use.
Only thing is the framing. I think I have something to work with there since some of my negs didn't come out just as I remember the scene.
That old -63 did good.
One thing. How do I tighten the aperture? It is very loose. And how do you guys get around doing slow shutterspeeds handheld? That Z4 trigger is somewhat stiff.
Best regards
The "trigger" shouldn't be very stiff, if it is then maybe a CLA is in order. As for the aperture, if it's loose it's probably got dried-up grease in there that shrank as it dried out. Depends which version of the J-8 you have, it's a bit fiddly but can be a DIY job. Have a look at:
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs/j8service.pdf
See if you're up for attempting it.
Dez
Bodger Extraordinaire
The Z4 is a pretty decent camera if you get a good one, but is by no stretch of the imagination as well built as a Leica, Canon or Contax. That said, you can get excellent results if it is sorted. When you are doing your film tests, I would suggest you verify the close focusing of your J8. These are really sharp lenses, but quality control was quite poor in the adjustment of the focusing mounts, and they often need to be adjusted.
First, check the accuracy of your rangefinder by sighting something as far away as possible to see if the images come together when the focus is set to infinity. The moon is the very best target for that, but if the weather is not cooperating, anything more that 100m away will do as well. If it is not exactly on, remove the screw on the front just beside the viewfinder window: under it you will find another screw that can be adjusted with a small screwdriver- about 1mm is best- to get it exactly correct.
With the RF accurate at infinity, take pictures up close, about 1.2-1.5m, with the lens wide open. It is best to use a subject that has some depth to enable you to determine if the lens is focusing too close or too far. If the lens focuses where the rangefinder says it is, you are in great shape, if not, you will probably need to adjust the shimming in the lens. this is notvery difficult, and there are many posts on RFF showing how to do it.
Best of luck!
Cheers,
Dez
First, check the accuracy of your rangefinder by sighting something as far away as possible to see if the images come together when the focus is set to infinity. The moon is the very best target for that, but if the weather is not cooperating, anything more that 100m away will do as well. If it is not exactly on, remove the screw on the front just beside the viewfinder window: under it you will find another screw that can be adjusted with a small screwdriver- about 1mm is best- to get it exactly correct.
With the RF accurate at infinity, take pictures up close, about 1.2-1.5m, with the lens wide open. It is best to use a subject that has some depth to enable you to determine if the lens is focusing too close or too far. If the lens focuses where the rangefinder says it is, you are in great shape, if not, you will probably need to adjust the shimming in the lens. this is notvery difficult, and there are many posts on RFF showing how to do it.
Best of luck!
Cheers,
Dez
Soeren
Well-known
Thanks guys for the good advice, I appreciate that. The rangefinder seems accurate enough and as soon I have some of my negs enlaged I can telle you about focussing accuracy up close. Both lens and body is -63 and I think Ill eventually have the apperture fixed.
Are there any film/dev combo that will suit old FSU glass well?
I plan to enlarge on Foma paper using Forte developer and my Meopta Axomat enlarger
Best regards
Are there any film/dev combo that will suit old FSU glass well?
I plan to enlarge on Foma paper using Forte developer and my Meopta Axomat enlarger
Best regards
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