sepiareverb
genius and moron
Sticking on this off topic M5 segue, just spoke to Don and he will mask off the stoooopid 75mm frames on my M5...
How will you shoot the 1.25 Noctilux?
Sticking on this off topic M5 segue, just spoke to Don and he will mask off the stoooopid 75mm frames on my M5...
How will you shoot the 1.25 Noctilux?
The M4/M2 framelines are seen by many as ideal. Why did Leica not choose for those in the M-A? For many people this is a reason not to choose for the M-A I guess.
Erik.
I believe this has been discussed (maybe over at LUF though), but the change was to to make the framing accurate at 0.7m rather than 1.0m. As you focus closer the field of view gets smaller. With the M2/4 framelines focused at 0.7m you will get less on the film than the framelines show. With the M6 on framelines you will always get more on the film, never less.
True, but this is useless as the majority of shots is taken on larger distances (I presume ...).
It is totally useless tho have frames in a viewfinder that are not as precise as possible (my opinion ...).
Erik.
True, but this is useless as the majority of shots is taken on larger distances (I presume ...).
It is totally useless tho have frames in a viewfinder that are not as precise as possible (my opinion ...).
If you need framing indication that is "as precise as possible" you need a TTL viewing camera with a 100% coverage viewfinder, not a rangefinder.
if you need perfect framing, use a camera with TTL viewing.
I've ment to say: As precise as possible with a rangefinder. I am happy that there are lots and lots of M2's, M3's, M4's and M5's for me to choose from. I still do not understand why the later M's have framelines optimized for close ups as it is better for close ups to use a TTL-viewing camera.
I have found this to be true. Sometimes in my zeal to use the full frame with my SLR, I find myself in the darkroom wishing I hadn't cropped quite so tightly. A little leeway on the more side gives you some needed flexibility when you print.It is always better, with a rangefinder camera, to see a little less than what you'll get rather than a little more. The is the majority opinion, by the vast majority of users/photographers.
- It is always better, with a rangefinder camera, to see a little less than what you'll get rather than a little more. The is the majority opinion, by the vast majority of users/photographers.
I have found this to be true. Sometimes in my zeal to use the full frame with my SLR, I find myself in the darkroom wishing I hadn't cropped quite so tightly. A little leeway on the more side gives you some needed flexibility when you print.
Frame lines are just an aid to framing ... they don't define what you frame. You have to see what the lens sees with your mind. :angel:
G
having owned most of the M models (M3, M2, M4-P, M4-2, M6, M6TTL, M9, M-P typ 240, M-D typ 262), I have hardly ever even noticed the differences in the frame line definitions.
Hi,
I seem to recall reading in one of their catalogues that the aim was to cover what you get once the developed film was mounted in a slide frame and slides cut off a small percentage of the edges. And, of course, years ago who used anything else for colour? And for B&W prints the enlarger frame would cut off the edges.
It also explains why looking at old cameras' negatives you see slight distortions where the body hasn't been machined too precisely.