dfoo
Well-known
Perhaps we're talking about different things. I have two types of auto-flashes, and on both of them you have to set the f-stop and film iso.
Why is light output of automatic flashes so high?
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Perhaps we're talking about different things. I have two types of auto-flashes, and on both of them you have to set the f-stop and film iso.
oftheherd
Veteran
A couple of things. You did not mention which Canonet you are using. I don't recall the others, but the QL III 17 set the aperture if using the dedicated flash (or any other of the same guide number).
Don't worry about auto. In the locations you mentioned, such as a restaurant, if there isn't a similar background close to your subject, the auto setting is likely to be fooled anyway.
My reccommendation would be a flash similar to this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Sunpak-Auto-322...ptZDigital_Camera_Flashes?hash=item2303962bb8 on ebay. Sunpak, and probably others, made more than one line like this. Go manual, and from the calculations provided on the flash (see the ebay photo), set the aperture for the correct exposure at the distance you are shooting at. This is small enough to carry easily with a small camera like the QL 17. It isn't a peice of the sun, like say a Sunpak 544, but should give you what you say you are looking for. Notice that it also lays on its side, and swivels. Perfect for bounce from walls or low ceilings.
I have more than one of these as I find them very easy to use and powerful enough. An added advantage is the power settings, which the calculator handles for you as well.
Don't worry about auto. In the locations you mentioned, such as a restaurant, if there isn't a similar background close to your subject, the auto setting is likely to be fooled anyway.
My reccommendation would be a flash similar to this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Sunpak-Auto-322...ptZDigital_Camera_Flashes?hash=item2303962bb8 on ebay. Sunpak, and probably others, made more than one line like this. Go manual, and from the calculations provided on the flash (see the ebay photo), set the aperture for the correct exposure at the distance you are shooting at. This is small enough to carry easily with a small camera like the QL 17. It isn't a peice of the sun, like say a Sunpak 544, but should give you what you say you are looking for. Notice that it also lays on its side, and swivels. Perfect for bounce from walls or low ceilings.
I have more than one of these as I find them very easy to use and powerful enough. An added advantage is the power settings, which the calculator handles for you as well.
Pickett Wilson
Veteran
Yes, the calculator dial isn't connected to anything. But the effect is the same. Use the settings the calculator dial gives you for a higher ISO than the film you are using and you get less flash output for a given aperture and distance.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
You can often set the ISO - but on most plain hot shoe auto flashes that do not come with a LCD panel, that will merely mechanically shift the mask in front of the internal printed table. Anything ISO (or even f stop) at the flash is purely informative and does not set anything but a calculator display - settable (if the flash has several step automation) is only the flash sensor GN.
dfoo
Well-known
Ok, yes, I understand what you mean now.
charjohncarter
Veteran
My Vivitar 2600 and 2800d go to F4 at 400 ISO. The way some pros do it is to set your camera at F4 and then set the shutter speed for the ambient light; say 1/4 or 1/8. They then turn on the flash (F4 setting) and fire away in the room. The slow shutter speed may cause some background movement but the flash freezes the subject.
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