Al Kaplan
Veteran
Get yourself a seperate light meter and start from there.
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Get yourself a seperate light meter and start from there.
I have one, but I'm lazy.
Actually, it takes a lot longer to take a photo when I use it, and I only like to use it on my non-metered cameras ( I have a couple of those ).
Maybe I should try it, though. Who knows - I may like it.
mwooten
light user
But the meter only works if the lens is chipped, correct?
Yes.
You could use a handheld meter, or just chimp a time or two.
BillBingham2
Registered User
There is a strong school of thought that if you shoot without a meter and really review your shots you can get the exposure right a whole lot more than you expect. Add in the histogram in the back and you have instant feed back. Just make sure you display the image with the histogram long enough to decide what you want to do (e.g. another exposure).
The main lenses I am going to use on my DSLR (right now looking like a D3000 or D60) will be the CV SLII 20 and 58, both chipped and a 180/2.8 ED which might get traded in for an 180/2.8 ED AF. I have several other lens I really want to try (e.g. 24, 28, 50, 85, 105) but I want full manual metering in the viewfinder for most of my efforts (getting lazy in old age). That might change if I get better at guessing exposures.
Give it a try, pick up an old 24/2.8. It's a great lens normally and makes a kick ass 36/2.8 on your D70. Small, sharp, reasonably fast and a Nikkor.
B2 (;->
The main lenses I am going to use on my DSLR (right now looking like a D3000 or D60) will be the CV SLII 20 and 58, both chipped and a 180/2.8 ED which might get traded in for an 180/2.8 ED AF. I have several other lens I really want to try (e.g. 24, 28, 50, 85, 105) but I want full manual metering in the viewfinder for most of my efforts (getting lazy in old age). That might change if I get better at guessing exposures.
Give it a try, pick up an old 24/2.8. It's a great lens normally and makes a kick ass 36/2.8 on your D70. Small, sharp, reasonably fast and a Nikkor.
B2 (;->
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
There is a strong school of thought that if you shoot without a meter and really review your shots you can get the exposure right a whole lot more than you expect. Add in the histogram in the back and you have instant feed back. Just make sure you display the image with the histogram long enough to decide what you want to do (e.g. another exposure).
The main lenses I am going to use on my DSLR (right now looking like a D3000 or D60) will be the CV SLII 20 and 58, both chipped and a 180/2.8 ED which might get traded in for an 180/2.8 ED AF. I have several other lens I really want to try (e.g. 24, 28, 50, 85, 105) but I want full manual metering in the viewfinder for most of my efforts (getting lazy in old age). That might change if I get better at guessing exposures.
Give it a try, pick up an old 24/2.8. It's a great lens normally and makes a kick ass 36/2.8 on your D70. Small, sharp, reasonably fast and a Nikkor.
B2 (;->
Maybe I will pick up an old 24. I could try it out, and also let my dad use it on his FA. Until I get an FM3a, that is
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Lenses work fine, metering is a bitch but in M mode they work OK
I think there is a way to have a preview and thus estimating your light
I think there is a way to have a preview and thus estimating your light
ncd_photo
Nikon Fanatic
I use the 20 3.5 a fair bit on my D200 but it meters with that. I think the CV option is probably the best bet for the D70.
This should give you an idea of the size difference from the Tokina 12-24 and the Nikon lens. I know which I prefer for hiking
This should give you an idea of the size difference from the Tokina 12-24 and the Nikon lens. I know which I prefer for hiking

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