Will a Hexar AF.....

Mmm, sounds like you need to dump yours. Have you had the shutter button checked?

All the dreadful errors made with this camera are down to me - apart from backlighting, which can fool the metering and give very underexposed shots. But in all other conditions, even with slide film, I've found the metering absolutely faultless.

DO you have a filter on there? That could cause the ERR code.
 
I bought a regular filter to protect the lens and the nd filter for bright sunny weather. The bottom line is that it's one big hassel. I've even had trouble closing the back when I put in new film. I can't think of one decent shot that I've been able to take with it.
 
It's the filter that's causing the ERR message - the lens is hitting it on close focus. You need to add another filter ring to move it away from the lens.

But overall it sounds like you've got an abused example...
 
dazedgonebye said:
I shoot it at f2 whenever possible.
Obviously, it is not at its sharpest wide open, but it is acceptably sharp, and the bokeh is very much to my taste.
In fact, I've bought 46mm ND filters so I can shoot wide open outside.
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Hear hear!

BTW, do you manually change the ISO setting (e.g. for ISO 400 with an ND filter of .6, set to ISO 100) to compensate for the ND filter? I realized after one roll that I had to do this because the light metering is not done through the lens, but I think it's done by the little round thingie right next to the lens.
 
Gabriel M.A. said:
Hear hear!

BTW, do you manually change the ISO setting (e.g. for ISO 400 with an ND filter of .6, set to ISO 100) to compensate for the ND filter? I realized after one roll that I had to do this because the light metering is not done through the lens, but I think it's done by the little round thingie right next to the lens.
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Yep, you have to compensate via iso setting. I'm not sure the exposure compensation setting gives you enough control.
 
dazedgonebye said:
Yep, you have to compensate via iso setting. I'm not sure the exposure compensation setting gives you enough control.
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Only about two stops, and when you turn the camera off, it won't remember your EV compensation; but it will remember the manual ISO setting.
 
Focusing on the AF is more accurate, for all intents and purposes. It auto-corrects for focus shift as the lens stops down, so it's sharper than most fast 35mm lenses on rangefinder cameras.

Would you even need the M2 with a Hexar at the wide end and an F3 at the long end? The M2 does 35, 50 and 90 comfortably. 35mm can be done with the Hexar, 85mm can be done with the F3, and you don't need a 50mm. So you can sell the M2.

See? Gear acquisition syndrome problem solved.

szekiat said:
I currently shoot the hexar RF and an M2 as my staple film gear and will soon be adding a F3 w/85f2 just for portraits. The thing is, i've heard so much about the abilities of the hexar AF as a stealth cam with quality.

I love my current setup to bits, but am curious as to just how good the hexar AF is compared to say a hexar rf with 50hex and 28 ultron. Is it every bit as sharp at f2 or is it one of those lenses that performs when stopped down to 2.8.

Gah, this is thinly veiled GAS!!! Anyone with a hexar af to trade in the uk let me know what u want!
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Still keeping it

Still keeping it

I bought mine a few months ago, and I had problem with the shutter button. It seem to be a common problem with used Hexar AF. I fixed the problem and sold my used one to get a new silver Hexar new in box at a reasonable price. I used mine for some specific purpose, I like to used in the subway or on the bus with the stealth mode. I Keep the camera at my breast and shoot at people. Those pictures explain why I still keep my Hexar AF.
 
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