Leicas are the Ideal camera
Leicas are the Ideal camera
Having carried Leicas in Afghanistan since 1983, in their variouses guises of M6s, M7s, MP & IIIG as well as an X-Pan I cannot think of a better system, if you do not need the immediacy of digital.
As previously stated dust is going to be your biggest issue. The best thing to combat this is a good bag. I have relegated my Domke friends to the odd outing now, in favour of Lowpro’s Stealth Reporter bags – 200 AW + optional filmbag end attachments for my Leicas & 400AW for my Canon 1Ds. I still wrap my camera bodies & lenses in chamois leathers, which also make good lense cleaners. For the outside of the bodies & lenses I use a shaving brush.
Cold can be an issue if you travel to the upper reaches of the Hindu Kush – Panjshir, Badakshan, Wakhan etc. [Take spare batteries & don’t go straight out of a warm chaikhana into the cold without acclimatising your cameras & film]
Leicas are wonderfully unobtrusive and allow photographs to be taken in situations when the big Digi Press cameras may be removed.
The obverse side to this is that they do not look like "serious" pro cameras to the uninitiated, and this can preclude you from some events if you are unknown.
But all “snappers” take second place to those toting video cameras.
Afghan is status driven society where obvious wealth – fancy cameras like canons and betacams - supposedly determine the owners importance.
A Leica can appear to be a poorman’s camera. This can work very much in your favour should you have the misfortune to encounter a checkpoint manned by venal warlords’ thugs who may think that it is not worth their while relieving you of such an antiquated piece of machinery
Don't be discouraged, as Afghans are one of the most hospitable races in the world and they also have an innate proclivity in enjoying having their picture taken. Though this is in benign situations when you are known and the purpose of your presence has been accepted.
Please don’t allow natural caution to be overcome by short-term valour. In all my time with the mujahideen and their successors, I have never had a “Capa Spanish” moment – so please don’t seek something that is a chimera, and certainly not worth risking your life for.
Afghanistan is incredibly polarised at the moment especially in outlying areas [particularly in the southern pushtun provinces the US & Coalition have taken on the guise, in the eyes of the pushtun people, of that that the Soviets enjoyed in the 80s]. ie infidel invaders.
Military style gear is not advised, although flackvests should be considered when travelling south of Kabul or when travelling to J’bad and its environs.
You will get better info from those journos staying at Gandamack Lodge when you reach Kabul
http://www.gandamacklodge.co.uk/
Also you should download the pdf file from AREU of the Kabul contact,s which is an invaluable help when trying to set up meets in spite of the Kabul fumed-filled gridlock, with those who can help.
http://www.areu.org.af/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=17
Finally, this time of year you may want to take some 200 & 400 asa film as things can be rather gloomy – especially in the mountains. Hope this is of some help and I wish you every success. The Afghans are one of the most marvellous if not the most infuriating people. But do enjoy your time there.
ATB
Rhodie