infrequent
Well-known
Are you capturing a scene or the correct exposure? All of this seems rather opposite of actually going out there and taking shots which seem to be what Fuji X cameras excel at.
Sid836
Well-known
Have in mind that the ISO rating for digital cameras is different to the ISO/ASA of film and many times it is being calculated differently from camera maker to camera maker.
Each camera maker has standards of its own to assign ISO ratings to its sensor and thus one can have different readings for the same scene but with the same result from different cameras.
Each camera maker has standards of its own to assign ISO ratings to its sensor and thus one can have different readings for the same scene but with the same result from different cameras.
Dogman
Veteran
While I realize you're accustomed to using a handheld meter, this is the practical solution when using the XPro.
ptpdprinter
Veteran
It is not a bit off; Sunny 16 is a bit off.
ptpdprinter
Veteran
Why not use the XPro2 in one of the automatic modes and see how the exposure turns out before going to the expense of buying a light meter. I know you say you are in the habit of using a light meter, and old habits die hard, but how deep could the habit be if you don't even own a light meter.
froyd
Veteran
Very interesting read... I was not aware of the 2/3 stop difference with Sony and Nikon. I now wonder how much variance there's from one comany to the other.
If the difference is constan, it'll be easy to compensate, but Spanik seems to indicate it's not.
adamjbonn
Established
There's different standards to measure things...
I was very hot today, it was 30 degrees
Of course living in Europe I mean Celsius, not Fahrenheit, but you knew that right?!
The histogram is luminance only (like a great many cameras) which is -more or less- just the green channel
But the histogram and the 'what you see is what you get' nature of the EVF combined with a bit of experience should mean you can gague exposure ok
It might be worth setting exp bracketing up to give you a bit of leeway while you find your feet with it and work out which exposure works best with your workflow (some people like darker pictures!)
I was very hot today, it was 30 degrees
Of course living in Europe I mean Celsius, not Fahrenheit, but you knew that right?!
The histogram is luminance only (like a great many cameras) which is -more or less- just the green channel
But the histogram and the 'what you see is what you get' nature of the EVF combined with a bit of experience should mean you can gague exposure ok
It might be worth setting exp bracketing up to give you a bit of leeway while you find your feet with it and work out which exposure works best with your workflow (some people like darker pictures!)
willie_901
Veteran
You Don't Need A Hand-Held Light Meter
You Don't Need A Hand-Held Light Meter
FUJIFILM cameras expose exactly the same way other cameras expose. What is different are the estimates of their in-camera light meter. In me experience, these differences can be unimportant.
With any digital camera it is important to maximize exposure. This maximizes the raw data's signal-to-nose ratio. SNR is the primary factor that determines an image's technical quality. Unnecessary underexposure always affects the shadow regions' quality most.
There are four basic steps to maximize exposure.
o Set the aperture to obtain the depth-of-field required for the photograph you envision.
o Select a shutter speed that freezes either camera and, or subject *motion as needed.
o Use the lowest ISO possible that's consistent with the exposure parameters determined in the previous steps. Electronic stabilization or a tripod provide more exposure parameter flexibility.
o Finally, fine tune either aperture or shutter speed to retain only the interesting or important highlights in all three channels. This means some highlights may intentionally be overexposed. If every highlight region must be recorded, the shadow regions’ S/N will suffer.
The last step is where a light meter is convenient. An initial exposure estimate can make optimizing the shutter and, or aperture times more efficient. But that estimate is just a starting point.
Rather than worry about a how well the light meter maps to the sensor and, or ADC maximum possible signal levels, just automatically bracket the aperture setting. Then you can pick the best exposure and delete the others. I usually do this in post production because in-camera image viewing and histograms can be highly dependent on in-camera JPEG rendering parameters.
I have used four different FUJIFILM X-Series bodies. I found the in-camera light meter provides an reliable initial meter estimate. Based on this estimate I use manual exposure mode and autobracket three shots in -1/3, 0, +1/3 aperture steps. I use the image where the important highlight regions are retained.
Honestly, at least 3/4 of the time I choose the 0 bracket exposure from the set of three.
You Don't Need A Hand-Held Light Meter
FUJIFILM cameras expose exactly the same way other cameras expose. What is different are the estimates of their in-camera light meter. In me experience, these differences can be unimportant.
With any digital camera it is important to maximize exposure. This maximizes the raw data's signal-to-nose ratio. SNR is the primary factor that determines an image's technical quality. Unnecessary underexposure always affects the shadow regions' quality most.
There are four basic steps to maximize exposure.
o Set the aperture to obtain the depth-of-field required for the photograph you envision.
o Select a shutter speed that freezes either camera and, or subject *motion as needed.
o Use the lowest ISO possible that's consistent with the exposure parameters determined in the previous steps. Electronic stabilization or a tripod provide more exposure parameter flexibility.
o Finally, fine tune either aperture or shutter speed to retain only the interesting or important highlights in all three channels. This means some highlights may intentionally be overexposed. If every highlight region must be recorded, the shadow regions’ S/N will suffer.
The last step is where a light meter is convenient. An initial exposure estimate can make optimizing the shutter and, or aperture times more efficient. But that estimate is just a starting point.
Rather than worry about a how well the light meter maps to the sensor and, or ADC maximum possible signal levels, just automatically bracket the aperture setting. Then you can pick the best exposure and delete the others. I usually do this in post production because in-camera image viewing and histograms can be highly dependent on in-camera JPEG rendering parameters.
I have used four different FUJIFILM X-Series bodies. I found the in-camera light meter provides an reliable initial meter estimate. Based on this estimate I use manual exposure mode and autobracket three shots in -1/3, 0, +1/3 aperture steps. I use the image where the important highlight regions are retained.
Honestly, at least 3/4 of the time I choose the 0 bracket exposure from the set of three.
twopointeight
Well-known
There's another non-technical reason to use a handheld meter if you are shooting people. It slows things down and engages you with the subject. Its a touch of old school which can work in your favor. Just like setting up strobes to impress your client and then opting for natural light anyway. Or using a Rolleiflex when you know that an XPro2 at 200 iso will give you about the same quality.
SaveKodak
Well-known
The image off the EVF will create a much better exposure than even a meter will. Just use the EVF, you can place your skin tones right where they need to be.
13Promet
Well-known
That's the same experience I had with an X-E2, and the same conclusion I came to.
adamjbonn
Established
Fuji's ISO standard that denotes 200 is about 160 in a different currency
DXO don't test Fuji
Fuji cameras are aware of their own metering methods, if the EVF/histogram is indicating a correct exposure (give of take the limitations of a luminance only histogram - which is hardly a Fuji only thing) then that's what you'll get, a correct exposure
Like temperate, it's either hot or cold, it's not important if you present that data in F or C degrees
infrequent
Well-known
Just overexpose by a third then if inclined? Best to just leave it alone!
Man, this thread makes me very happy that I am happy with Fuji's metering and that I don't overthink this.
adamjbonn
Established
joe bosak
Well-known
JHutchins
Well-known
This, like so many other questions and comments I see or hear about exposure, seems pointless if not actually ill formed. Although cameras are much more mechanically consistent than they were back in the days when they were all mechanical there's still sample variation in shuttet speeds, sensor response, lens magnification, aperture size and lens transmission ability (glass absorbs and reflects light so transmission is not necessarily consistent across lenses even if the aperture is identical) to make it difficult to answer this question definitely without a much more well thought out test program than I've ever seen anyone implement. For my purposes, I've never noticed a problem with Fuji cameras or had unexpected results as a result of guessing exposure. People who are more particular than I am in their need for precise repeatability in exposure do what Adams instructed everyone to do as the first step of the zone system -- precisely calibrate every step of your workflow using all of your equipment so that you know exactly what you will get every time you press the shutter button. People who expect more precision than I expect who do not do this are people who will spend their lives being frustrated and it will be their own fault.
ptpdprinter
Veteran
Taken together, how much variation do you think there is? One stop? Two stops? Enough to matter?
Dinksta
Slavic Sensation
I would suggest just shooting the camera and compensating after reviewing the shot. It is digital btw . If you must use a light meter I have had very good results using the iPhone Apps with both film and digital, However they will not do flash.
. If you must use a light meter I have had very good results using the iPhone Apps with both film and digital, However they will not do flash.
bhop73
Well-known
Add me to that list.