XTOL and Stand Development

Lilserenity

Well-known
Local time
4:00 PM
Joined
Aug 21, 2008
Messages
1,031
Location
Worthing, W Sx
Hiya,

I aim to shoot some Fuji Acros this weekend for unbelievably the first time. I have been meaning to for a long while but Tri-X, HP5+, FP4+ and PanF have kept me pretty happy for a long time. I've heard good things so I'm looking forward to it (particularly as I can buy it over the counter less than a mile from my front door for just over £3 a 36exp roll) -- however I also want to try out stand development.

I have settled somewhat on XTOL as my developer of choice, I've just mixed up 5l of stock solution which I will be using as a matter of course regardless.

However I have also read a lot lately about using Rodinal for stand development. However, before I consider buying some Rodinal as well as 5l of XTOL (which is a fair amount to get through) I wanted to hear of any examples of people using XTOL for stand development, even better - XTOL and Acros.

The basic rule of thumb seems to be 1:100 dillution for 1hr in Rodinal, 1:200 for a 2hr dev time in Rodinal and 1:300 for a 3hr dev time in Rodinal.

I have tended to use XTOL straight/stock or 1:1 mostly on the advice that 1:2 or 1:3 wasn't recommended. It's probably fine but I rarely shoot rolls of film just to mess around (I know I should... But I'm always keen to shoot from the heart and get to the heart of the subject and shooting test stuff never gets on the agenda)

Any hints and tips of XTOL for stand development? I've also read about part mixing XTOL with Rodinal but I want to see if what I have is of any use before splashing out on more developer.

Many thanks,
Vicky
 
Just the opposite:
Xtol 1:3, 10 minutes, continuous agitation in a Jobo tank. Works for everything I've put in it: Hp5+, Delta 100, PanF+, Foma 200.
Xtol 1:3 AND Rodinal 1:100 mixed together, Efke 25, 8 minutes, normal agitation every minute.
 
I found something from Google but never tried. There was some instructions for dilutions. Photo.net and Apug are often a good source for these...
 
Thanks for the responses. I think I might try asking on APUG. I've just mixed up a whole bunch of stock XTOL yesterday, potentially a 1:3 dillution would start to yield some results.

I've been reading with great interest the effect of Rodinal and XTOL together lately too.
 
Rather than try a new film and a new developer, why not try the new film in your standard xtol at your usual dilution - then you can compare the new film to your current favorites. Changing more than one variable leaves you uncertain as to what worked - or didn't.

KenD
 
Hi Vicky.

I have never used Xtol but I have used Rodinal for many years and can assure you of one thing. It will keep literally for ever so buy a bottle and go ahead and dabble with it. Even when you have no Xtol to hand, your faithful bottle of Rodinal will be there for you. Get used to working with it and you always have fresh developer to hand. Also the potential to get more than one look from each of the films you are using. Xtol for smoothness and Rodinal for biting sharpness and wonderful tonality..
 
Acros is a great film, but for my taste it lacks acutance and the tonality can vary considerably depending on the developer. Undiluted Xtol is probably the least indicated developer to use, as it is solvent and with weak tonality to start with. You will get grainless washed out negs which will appear unsharp. I find acutance developers to perform far better, in particular Rodinal does well even at 1+50, and this film probably looks best in pyro type developers, here are a couple of examples:
Rodinal 1+100

2372223050_070e3629a7_b.jpg


Prescysol EF ( Pyrocat HD) semi stand:

2193690452_8c2f2a220b_b.jpg


Another great acutance developer for slow films : FX 39

2971165838_12ff098a88_b.jpg
 
Acros is a great film, but for my taste it lacks acutance and the tonality can vary considerably depending on the developer. Undiluted Xtol is probably the least indicated developer to use, as it is solvent and with weak tonality to start with. You will get grainless washed out negs which will appear unsharp. I find acutance developers to perform far better, in particular Rodinal does well even at 1+50, and this film probably looks best in pyro type developers, here are a couple of examples:

Rodinal 1+100

What method of developing did you use? I've been having a hard time getting acros to come out with stand developing. I get sharp negatives but absolutely no tonal range or shadow detail, just highlights and blanks.
 
Back
Top Bottom