bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Hi all, i am new to RF world, i am from Indonesia but currently studying in Singapore.
I have an MG-1 that have some problems with the shutter speed. First, when i inserted battery (i use 4x LR44 with aluminum foil to fill up the gap), the meter works but at a glance, the shutter seems to operate at only one speed (1/500 i suppose?) although the yellow and red light indicators work. Secondly, i know that there is no bulb mode in MG-1, but if the meter shows yellow, and i proceed to take a picture, the shutter remains open as long as i press the shutter release button. So, if it is in the normal exposure region, it fires at only one speed but for underexposed shots, it fires at Bulb, which theoretically doesn't exist in the camera.
Anyone knows what could be wrong? Is it the mechanics or the electronics that go wrong? I can't use the erratic shutter test as described in the Yashica Guy website as my hotshoe is also broken (still attached, but is almost falling off)
It is my first RF, i just bought it a few days ago, so i really hope i can make it work, at least until i can afford (i am a student) to get better condition ones in the (hopefully) near future.
Thank you very much in advance for reading!
Cheers,
Bayu
I have an MG-1 that have some problems with the shutter speed. First, when i inserted battery (i use 4x LR44 with aluminum foil to fill up the gap), the meter works but at a glance, the shutter seems to operate at only one speed (1/500 i suppose?) although the yellow and red light indicators work. Secondly, i know that there is no bulb mode in MG-1, but if the meter shows yellow, and i proceed to take a picture, the shutter remains open as long as i press the shutter release button. So, if it is in the normal exposure region, it fires at only one speed but for underexposed shots, it fires at Bulb, which theoretically doesn't exist in the camera.
Anyone knows what could be wrong? Is it the mechanics or the electronics that go wrong? I can't use the erratic shutter test as described in the Yashica Guy website as my hotshoe is also broken (still attached, but is almost falling off)
It is my first RF, i just bought it a few days ago, so i really hope i can make it work, at least until i can afford (i am a student) to get better condition ones in the (hopefully) near future.
Thank you very much in advance for reading!
Cheers,
Bayu
Harlee
Well-known
I presently have 3 MG-1 Yashica cameras and I like them very much. Most likely the problem might be with the infamous POD, or Pad of Death which is located withing the frount left hand side of the body. It most likely needs to be replaced, as they deteriorate over a period of time. There are numerous references regarding the POD which can be found on this site. It can be replaced without taking the camera apart, and removal of the camera's top is pretty straightforward. Good luck!
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Hi, Harlee! Thank you very much for the respond! Sure, i will search the forum about it. Thank you!
farlymac
PF McFarland
Bayu,
What happens, is as the POD (a small piece of rubber) gets old, it tends to shrink. The main switching board inside the camera moves up and down with the shutter release to activate the different functions of the camera, sort of like a large multi-path slider switch, and uses the POD as a bumper. When the POD shrinks, it throws the alignment out on the switching board, and the circuits don't close or open like they should. If it moves too far, you either get a short, or an open, depending on where the contacts line up on the board. This of course causes all sorts of havok, such as what you are experiencing.
I have a GSN that the yellow 'Under' light will not shut off, so the POD is most likely to blame for this. Since I have a couple other Yashica models presently working, I've not bothered with trying to replace the POD yet, but plan to in the near future, as it was my favorite camera. Good luck on fixing yours.
PF
What happens, is as the POD (a small piece of rubber) gets old, it tends to shrink. The main switching board inside the camera moves up and down with the shutter release to activate the different functions of the camera, sort of like a large multi-path slider switch, and uses the POD as a bumper. When the POD shrinks, it throws the alignment out on the switching board, and the circuits don't close or open like they should. If it moves too far, you either get a short, or an open, depending on where the contacts line up on the board. This of course causes all sorts of havok, such as what you are experiencing.
I have a GSN that the yellow 'Under' light will not shut off, so the POD is most likely to blame for this. Since I have a couple other Yashica models presently working, I've not bothered with trying to replace the POD yet, but plan to in the near future, as it was my favorite camera. Good luck on fixing yours.
PF
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Ok, that may answer the problem. But i have difficulty finding ways to take off the top plate. I still have not found the relevant article(s) showing me the steps to take it off. Is the steps the same as taking off the top plate of electro 35 series? Cus that's the only one i can find. I really wanna repair it, since it is my first RF.
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
I've read the article, so the steps are more or less the same, i assume? I will give it a try tomorrow, after i get the result of my test roll. If they turn out great, means that there is no problem with the shutter, but if they turn out to be problematic, then i will have to open it up and see what i can do with it. Thank you, guys, for the input so far.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Bayu,
One good thing about taking the top off an MG-1 is you don't have to deal with the ASA setting switch, as this is built into the lens barrel. Take off the film winding lever, then the rewind crank (make sure you pop the back open first, then tape a piece of card over the edge so the back door doesn't close on you), then remove three screws from around the lower edge of the top plate (one on each end, and one in the center rear), and it should come off.
Make sure you note the position of the Auto/Flash switch so when you put it back together it is correct.
Good luck!
PF
One good thing about taking the top off an MG-1 is you don't have to deal with the ASA setting switch, as this is built into the lens barrel. Take off the film winding lever, then the rewind crank (make sure you pop the back open first, then tape a piece of card over the edge so the back door doesn't close on you), then remove three screws from around the lower edge of the top plate (one on each end, and one in the center rear), and it should come off.
Make sure you note the position of the Auto/Flash switch so when you put it back together it is correct.
Good luck!
PF
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bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Okay! Thanks a lot for the pointers! I read that taping the side with cellophane alone would do the trick?
I am getting the results from my first roll of film today, so i will see them first before doing anything, although i really think that there is something wrong, especially with the bulb mode it has now.
But, if the problem is only for underexposed images, then maybe i will think twice before taking the camera apart. I will let you all know the roll result by tonight (Singapore time).
Thanks everyone!
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
If the shutter is staying open like B mode, then there is definitely a problem. Could be the POD or dirty contacts, or both.
Russ
Russ
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Care to share more about dirty contacts? I'm so sorry for asking a lot of questions, please bear with me.
I just got back the results from my test roll, it generally came out good, if not great, but as i suspect, the problem lies in the underexposed scenes where the camera would then go into the bulb mode and ruin the image, or sometimes badly underexposed it. The other pictures show good exposure from the camera, but there are a few (2 or 3) images that are quite overexposed. So, i guess i will open up the camera and hope luck will be on my side!:angel:
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
If the electrical contacts for the exposure system are oxidized it can cause strange things to happen. The same goes for a deteriorated POD. No way to tell for sure without looking at it...
Russ
Russ
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
The oxidized contacts can be cleaned by cleaning it with solution, right? I read that in some other article. Anyway, i have not opened it yet, been very busy with uni works these few days, i think i will open it up after i finish with my uni works.
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
Best thing would be some contact cleaner. Cleans and evaporates without leaving a residue.
Russ
Russ
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Oh, yes, that was what i meant. Anyway, any chance that you might ship your battery adapter to Singapore? I saw your website the other day
monopix
Cam repairer
Do a search over on kyphoto (kyphoto.com) for yashica MG-1. There's information there which may help.
The best battery is the A32PX which is the same size as the original and doesn't need an adapter.
The best battery is the A32PX which is the same size as the original and doesn't need an adapter.
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
I did search on that website, but none specific for MG-1, nonetheless i will try again and see if there are useful articles that may help me along.
Yes, i know about the A32PX, but it is still harder to get here than the LR44, so i am thinking of getting an adapter for LR44, so far i have only been using stuffed aluminum foil.. Thanks for sharing!
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Hi all, sorry to ask again, what could be a suitable replacement for the POD? Is felt a good material? I read in one of the thread that Tupperware lid was used. Any input? Thanks in advance!
monopix
Cam repairer
Not felt, too soft. The Tupperware lid sounds a good idea if you can find one the right thickness. I've used plastic washers.
ErnestoJL
Well-known
Hi!
If the POD is the same as in the Electro 35 (any model) it should be of 2 mm thickness and made of rubber stiff enough to avoid misplacing the sliding contacts after the shutter is fired, it is in the start position. I used a small piece of a rubber carpet and filed it carefully to the right thickness.
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Ernesto
If the POD is the same as in the Electro 35 (any model) it should be of 2 mm thickness and made of rubber stiff enough to avoid misplacing the sliding contacts after the shutter is fired, it is in the start position. I used a small piece of a rubber carpet and filed it carefully to the right thickness.
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Ernesto
bayusuputra
BFA or BSc?
Alright, noted!
Anyway, i happened to come across this article, it says something about Bulb mode. Could this be the problem instead? I have not touch/replace the POD yet..
http://lomotion.20.forumer.com/a/yashica-mg1-internalrepaired_post4108.html