OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
I'm having so much trouble getting a decent lab that I'm sorely tempted to try some Ilford XP2 so I can drop it off at a local lab - they're great for colour but no longer do black & white.
Anyone out there have any good experiences with it...or nightmares?
I am not in a position to dev my own at the moment though this is likely to change in the future so please no comments about getting a darkroom...I know!!
Thanks
Anyone out there have any good experiences with it...or nightmares?
I am not in a position to dev my own at the moment though this is likely to change in the future so please no comments about getting a darkroom...I know!!
Thanks
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
I've used Fuji Neopan 400 CN manufactured by Ilford, and heavily based on XP2, and been very happy with it.
markinlondon
Elmar user
XP2 is a good compromise if you've no developing facilities. It looks very contrasty but scans really well. I've always liked it best at EI200-250, the shadow detail is better and the contrast is better controlled. In a pinch I've rated the same roll from 100 - 800 and got printable results. Proof prints (and scans) from the lab may suffer from colour casts. Fortunately, my local independent lab are quite good at avoiding these.
peterc
Heretic
I've been quite happy with XP2, but if you have a scanner (or get your negs scanned for you), you can use color C41 film and scan it as B&W or desaturate it in Photoshop.
Generally the color films can be cheaper to buy and you have a wide range of speeds available.
Peter
Generally the color films can be cheaper to buy and you have a wide range of speeds available.
Peter
markinlondon
Elmar user
Peter has a point and I have to say that XP2 looks more like a desaturated colour film than any b&w film I can think of. This shouldn't be a surprise as that's pretty much what it is.
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
I guess the best thing is to try a few and see what comes back with the best results. As with most people here I'll be using any prints as proofs and scanning/printing myself digitally.
I'm not keen on overly contrasty films as it doesn't give you the detail and 'play' that you may need later but I'll check it out. Never really looked into this kind of film before..
I'm not keen on overly contrasty films as it doesn't give you the detail and 'play' that you may need later but I'll check it out. Never really looked into this kind of film before..
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
"use color C41 film and scan it as B&W or desaturate it in Photoshop"
...as I miss the most obvious!
Time to experiment with a whole series of emulsions. I've been inspired by some of the less saturated colour images on here, notably Swann and John ( if I don't embarrass him too much ) and would like to try a few out whilst still keeping my b/w stuff going.
...as I miss the most obvious!
Time to experiment with a whole series of emulsions. I've been inspired by some of the less saturated colour images on here, notably Swann and John ( if I don't embarrass him too much ) and would like to try a few out whilst still keeping my b/w stuff going.
peterc
Heretic
charjohncarter
Veteran
I wasn't crazy about the Kodak version, but it was convenient. I found a couple of things (caveat 'I'm not an expert') First, I liked it better for scanning when it was slightly over exposed (fix that in PS). The dark areas in low light for me did not scan well. Second, I would do weak Neat Image process to soften the aliasing or grain. Third, I would use the 'remove color' tool in PS (no color cast). Forth, I would use curves to pull some midtones. Finally, resize down.
This also is a good excuse or catalyst for your starting to process your own B&W film too.
Avotius
Some guy
I have tried the color film then photoshoping it to bw and it just doesn't work for me, color film's contrast and what not is just different and I prefer a higher contrast in my pictures which I know is the opposite of most people here. I highly recommend xp2 though, I used to shoot hp5 and it just didnt satisfy me, then I was shooting delta 100 at 400 and liking that but didnt like developing it myself as chemicals are getting harder and harder to find on this side of china, so I tried xp2 and havnt looked back, besides the convince, the way it renders images fits me well.
I shoot it at box speed, like this image: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=46638
This one is at 320, which is ok but not for all things when loaded into my yashica gsn: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=43977
I shoot it at box speed, like this image: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=46638
This one is at 320, which is ok but not for all things when loaded into my yashica gsn: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=43977
blakley
blakley
I like XP2 a lot, actually. I'm using mostly Delta these days because it's cheaper to buy and the processing (at home) is cheaper too, but XP2 gives really nice results. I used it in England over the holiday 'cause I wanted to get the shots processed there in a high-street lab before going back on the plane, and I got some very nice results. Here are a few; click the photos to see more at flickr.




Sparrow
Veteran
Often use Fuji 400 superia as a black and white, scans well and just de-saturate in PS, used nothing else on holiday last year and it was a joy not having to pick either b&w or colour to load up with.
Pablito
coco frío
All the above suggestions are good, but you just need to be aware that these b&w c41 films have a very different "look" than traditional b&w. For me personally, they don't work at all. I find them too flat with the middle values too close together. And I like traditional grain. But we all are victims of circumstance, and you gotta make do with what you gotta make to.
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
A few previous threads may give you more info:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30333&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19908&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12601&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6859&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2752&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4445&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2522&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1487&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30333&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19908&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12601&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6859&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2752&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4445&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2522&highlight=XP2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1487&highlight=XP2
vodid
Cone of Uncertainty
I like XP2. Unlike some of the silver-based B&W films I've had difficulty scanning, the negatives scan easily and beautifully. Take it to a pro lab, have them develop the film only, no prints, which is cheap. I did a friends wedding awhile back, with a Mamiya C220, and dug out the old negatives fairly recently and scanned them with a flatbed scanner (Epson Perfection 4870 photo). See for yourself if you like the results...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/haroldgee/sets/72157594197127772/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/haroldgee/sets/72157594197127772/
wdenies
wdenies
XP2: very good all round film (maybe not for purists)
- very flexible ISO settings (I rate it at 300)
- can be developed anywhere, but never never ask the lab to make prints. They will look horrible!
But....
during trips I use more and more the BW conversion method. I can not take enough bodies with me to solve any situation.
In this situation I shoot on Fuji 160/400 or digital (sorry)
Reminder:
Desaturation is just the beginning of the art of BW conversion.
BW previsualisation: look at the scent through a red filter.
Wim
- very flexible ISO settings (I rate it at 300)
- can be developed anywhere, but never never ask the lab to make prints. They will look horrible!
But....
during trips I use more and more the BW conversion method. I can not take enough bodies with me to solve any situation.
In this situation I shoot on Fuji 160/400 or digital (sorry)
Reminder:
Desaturation is just the beginning of the art of BW conversion.
BW previsualisation: look at the scent through a red filter.
Wim
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