Rollei fan
Newbie
In short: how do you get to the shutter on a Zeiss Contessa 35 (early 50s model, Compur Rapid shutter) so you can do a little cleaning (longest times are sluggish).
The more detailed description the better! Thanks in advance!
(I posted this question a couple of days ago, but unfortunately it has disappeared due to server problems, so I hope that those who may have answered to it, could do it again)
The more detailed description the better! Thanks in advance!
(I posted this question a couple of days ago, but unfortunately it has disappeared due to server problems, so I hope that those who may have answered to it, could do it again)
ZeissFan
Veteran
OK, so that got whacked in the process. Let's try again:
First, you must loosen (not necessary to remove) the three sets screws that hold the distance scale ring. You'll need a very tiny screwdriver for that. If you're in the U.S., you can get one at Radio Shack. Loosen those three screws and remove the ring.
Next, remove the four screws that hold the lens shroud. They are of different sizes and lengths, so make sure you note that. Pull the shroud from the lens/shutter assembly.
The serrated ring that connects to both the distance scale and rangefinder should simply lift off. Next, you might want to make a small scratch mark on the front group and the middle lens. Make the scratch mark on the brass of the lens barrel (obviously not on the lens). This will help you set infinity focus.
Note that there should be three small drilled impressions in the barrel. These denote the locations of the set screws. The important thing here is that they are not equidistant from each other. They are at unique positions, and when reassembling, each one will line up with the set screw. If the set screws don't line up with the drill spots, then the lens hasn't been reassembled correctly. That's important to know.
So now unscrew the lens and then use a spanner wrench to remove the middle element. You can now remove the facing ring of the shutter and service normally.
Reassemble in the opposite order.
Reassembly will require you to first recalibrate the rangefinder to infinity. Then you must recollimate the lens to infinity. And finally, you must ensure that the serrated ring is replaced at the precise position where the distance scale sits at the infinity mark while not allowing the serrated ring to rotate the wedge prisms out of calibration. I hope that made sense.
This part requires patience, but once set it's permanent.
There are numerous collimating instructions available. Here are mine. If you have a method that works, then use that.
If you get stuck at any point, just drop me a note. I've worked on about a dozen of these -- maybe 15, so I'm very familiar with the ins and outs of this particular model.
Good luck.
First, you must loosen (not necessary to remove) the three sets screws that hold the distance scale ring. You'll need a very tiny screwdriver for that. If you're in the U.S., you can get one at Radio Shack. Loosen those three screws and remove the ring.
Next, remove the four screws that hold the lens shroud. They are of different sizes and lengths, so make sure you note that. Pull the shroud from the lens/shutter assembly.
The serrated ring that connects to both the distance scale and rangefinder should simply lift off. Next, you might want to make a small scratch mark on the front group and the middle lens. Make the scratch mark on the brass of the lens barrel (obviously not on the lens). This will help you set infinity focus.
Note that there should be three small drilled impressions in the barrel. These denote the locations of the set screws. The important thing here is that they are not equidistant from each other. They are at unique positions, and when reassembling, each one will line up with the set screw. If the set screws don't line up with the drill spots, then the lens hasn't been reassembled correctly. That's important to know.
So now unscrew the lens and then use a spanner wrench to remove the middle element. You can now remove the facing ring of the shutter and service normally.
Reassemble in the opposite order.
Reassembly will require you to first recalibrate the rangefinder to infinity. Then you must recollimate the lens to infinity. And finally, you must ensure that the serrated ring is replaced at the precise position where the distance scale sits at the infinity mark while not allowing the serrated ring to rotate the wedge prisms out of calibration. I hope that made sense.
This part requires patience, but once set it's permanent.
There are numerous collimating instructions available. Here are mine. If you have a method that works, then use that.
If you get stuck at any point, just drop me a note. I've worked on about a dozen of these -- maybe 15, so I'm very familiar with the ins and outs of this particular model.
Good luck.
Rollei fan
Newbie
Thanks, I saved this on my PC for future reference! 
Mike Kovacs
Contax Connaisseur
If you check the Zeiss Ikon board, I put some photos up of my Contessa of the same type. It needed a full shutter job, removed from the camera, split in two to clean the oily leaves. Rangefinder prism was separated but I got a spare parts body from my bestest best camera buddy, you-know-who in this thread.
Its a real nice shooter now, in my pocket today. I just read Zeissfan's description having stripped a parts Contessa just yesterday, and I don't think he missed any steps. When reassembling, you have to set the rangefinder to infinity and make sure you put the geared ring with the tab in the correct position, to engage the focus ring with the tab when its at the infinity mark. (much easier than it sounds)
Another thing - if the vertical alignment is correct on yours, do not take the cover off the rotating wedge assembly. If they are out by as much as one gear tooth, the image will move at an angle. Every Super Ikonta, Moskva and Contessa I have worked on had this problem to date. Its a real pain moving it one tooth, reassembling, trying out, disassembling, move another tooth, etc!
Sometimes it can be a real bitch reinstalling the slow speed escapement if you have to remove the two screws for cleaning. Both sides need to be properly positioned to get 1 sec and 1/10 working correctly. A shutter speed tester is almost mandatory. In some ways, its almost easier to split the shutter in two, remove the leaves, and soak the entire front half with escapement in lighter fluid. That's assuming that someone didn't already work on the camera and left the speeds set wrong.
Its a real nice shooter now, in my pocket today. I just read Zeissfan's description having stripped a parts Contessa just yesterday, and I don't think he missed any steps. When reassembling, you have to set the rangefinder to infinity and make sure you put the geared ring with the tab in the correct position, to engage the focus ring with the tab when its at the infinity mark. (much easier than it sounds)
Another thing - if the vertical alignment is correct on yours, do not take the cover off the rotating wedge assembly. If they are out by as much as one gear tooth, the image will move at an angle. Every Super Ikonta, Moskva and Contessa I have worked on had this problem to date. Its a real pain moving it one tooth, reassembling, trying out, disassembling, move another tooth, etc!
Sometimes it can be a real bitch reinstalling the slow speed escapement if you have to remove the two screws for cleaning. Both sides need to be properly positioned to get 1 sec and 1/10 working correctly. A shutter speed tester is almost mandatory. In some ways, its almost easier to split the shutter in two, remove the leaves, and soak the entire front half with escapement in lighter fluid. That's assuming that someone didn't already work on the camera and left the speeds set wrong.
newfilm
Well-known
I understands this is probably a dead topic, but lets see if the original author still around
I recently brought a Contessa folding version as well, and it does need that cleaning inside of lens and also the shutter release seems stuck even with film loaded.
I'm wondering if anyone got a repair/serive manual for it in pdf or something which I can study first to so not to turn my contessa into a permanent paper weight.
Also the link in this post is not working anymore, wonder if there is an update.
Many thanks!
I recently brought a Contessa folding version as well, and it does need that cleaning inside of lens and also the shutter release seems stuck even with film loaded.
I'm wondering if anyone got a repair/serive manual for it in pdf or something which I can study first to so not to turn my contessa into a permanent paper weight.
Also the link in this post is not working anymore, wonder if there is an update.
Many thanks!
I understands this is probably a dead topic, but lets see if the original author still around
I recently brought a Contessa folding version as well, and it does need that cleaning inside of lens and also the shutter release seems stuck even with film loaded.
I'm wondering if anyone got a repair/serive manual for it in pdf or something which I can study first to so not to turn my contessa into a permanent paper weight.
Also the link in this post is not working anymore, wonder if there is an update.
Many thanks!
I may have a manual in pdf. I will check later this morning.
Cheers,
Brett
I've had a look and have a repair manual for an earlier rim set Compur Rapid. If yours is a later type there are some differences.I understands this is probably a dead topic, but lets see if the original author still around
I recently brought a Contessa folding version as well, and it does need that cleaning inside of lens and also the shutter release seems stuck even with film loaded.
I'm wondering if anyone got a repair/serive manual for it in pdf or something which I can study first to so not to turn my contessa into a permanent paper weight.
Also the link in this post is not working anymore, wonder if there is an update.
Many thanks!
Later Compur Rapids have enough in common with a Synchro Compur design that the repair manual for these will be of help. You'll find these available on line from time to time. For example, the following ebay seller sometimes offers them for sale (no connection with me):
http://www.ebay.com/usr/u-mecking
Cheers
Brett
newfilm
Well-known
The font face of the lens says "compur" and "synchro", I guess that's the "new" version?
Thanks for the link, but it looks like the manual and shipping price is more than what I paid for the camera itself
I manage to get the shuttle release to unstuck some how, and now realize the slow speed is a little on the lower side, 1 sec is more like 3 sec and so on, the fast one 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 seems about right.
I guess I'll load up a roll of film and try it out and see if I can live with only the faster speed.
Thanks for the link, but it looks like the manual and shipping price is more than what I paid for the camera itself
I manage to get the shuttle release to unstuck some how, and now realize the slow speed is a little on the lower side, 1 sec is more like 3 sec and so on, the fast one 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 seems about right.
I guess I'll load up a roll of film and try it out and see if I can live with only the faster speed.
The font face of the lens says "compur" and "synchro", I guess that's the "new" version?
Thanks for the link, but it looks like the manual and shipping price is more than what I paid for the camera itself
I manage to get the shuttle release to unstuck some how, and now realize the slow speed is a little on the lower side, 1 sec is more like 3 sec and so on, the fast one 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 seems about right.
I guess I'll load up a roll of film and try it out and see if I can live with only the faster speed.
Perhaps so, but I suppose it depends on your existing skill level, and the likelihood of your repairing other cameras, as to whether you'd regard the purchase as an investment, or an expense...
Cheers,
Brett
newfilm
Well-known
A bit of update. I found someone that sell the manual, but he says that the manual does not have instruction to repair a shutter and the picture on the reprint is somewhat low res that it might not help me much. So now I'm searching for a part camera to turn up so I can do some relative no pressure practice and study to see how things works.
oh by the way, film came back, speed on the higher speed does works ok, slow speed is as expected over exposed due to slower than specs.
oh by the way, film came back, speed on the higher speed does works ok, slow speed is as expected over exposed due to slower than specs.