Zeiss vs Leica Lenses for M8

[Roger Willco]

Sorry about the cross-post, but I've decided on two focal lengths to start with on the M8. I will use the 28mm most often and the 50mm as a portrait lens. Now the questions are Leica or Zeiss glass and faster/larger/more expensive or slower/smaller/less expensive lenses. (Price are based on the popflash website).


Option 1:

Zeiss ZM 28mm f2.8 + Zeiss ZM 50mm f2.0 + 2 hoods = $1570

versus

Leica 28mm f2.8 ASPH Elmarit + 50mm f2.0 Summicron (used mint) = approximately $2600


Option 2 for a faster 50mm:

Zeiss ZM 28mm f2.8 + Zeiss ZM 50mm f1.5 + 2 hoods = $1937

versus

Leica 28mm f2.8 ASPH Elmarit + 50mm f1.4 Summilux (used mint) = approximately $3800


Option 3 for faster still - not available with Zeiss:

Leica 28mm f2.0 ASPH Summicron + 50mm f2.0 Summicron (both used mint) = approximately $3500

Leica 28mm f2.0 ASPH Summicron + 50mm f1.4 Summilux (both used mint) = approximately $4700


I know everything is a trade off, but what do you think? I'm particularly interested in comparison of the quality and build of Zeiss an Leica lens. I've read Sean Reids reviews in Luminous Landscape, and I'm about to subscribe to his web reviews.

Thanks,

Rog

 

[Photar]

All of these lenses are little jewels. All are beyond question in both optical and mechanical terms. Let you budget decide!

I would go for Option 1b (Leica) because of size and weight. The new Elmarit ASPH was developed for the M8. It must be a perfect match. The Summicron is legend anyway. Also I like to deal with one company instead of two if possible.

 

[jaapv]

Well, Rog, there is not much of a tradeoff with any of the lenses you mention. I'm afraid you'll have to make your own choices based on your inclinations.

 

[humanized_form]

a possible advantage i see with the zeiss lenses is having the 1/3 stops available on the aperture ring. adjusting the m8 exposure compensation seems to involve using a menu option from the lcd screen.... so a quick 1/3 stop tweak of the aperture ring could come in handy instead of menu diving.

kevin

 

[Bromo33333]

Well, Rog, there is not much of a tradeoff with any of the lenses you mention. I'm afraid you'll have to make your own choices based on your inclinations.

What about the codes ont he Leica lenses - will the lack of them on the Zeiss make a difference?

 

[grantray]

I don't think coding will be the issue Leica makes it out to be, plus I really love the Ziess signature. I'll probably be using the ZM 21 & 25 Biogons and the 50 Planar to start. I'll also be acquiring the new 2.8 28 Elmarit from Leica. (It also helps that I can pick up both Biogons and the new 28 for the price of one new Leica 21/2.8.) The only reservation I have concerns whether the ZM 25 will pull up the proper frame, or if it can be modified to do so. If it turns into too much of a problem, I might just stick to the 50 and 21 ZM's and the new 28 Elmarit.

-grant

 

[jano]

a possible advantage i see with the zeiss lenses is having the 1/3 stops available on the aperture ring. adjusting the m8 exposure compensation seems to involve using a menu option from the lcd screen.... so a quick 1/3 stop tweak of the aperture ring could come in handy instead of menu diving.

Huh? If camera is in AE mode, won't the shutter change accordingly? That's the way it works on the ZI, or so I've been told, even though it displays one number for the shutter, there's an "in between" shutter. Right?

 

[Huck Finn]

What about the codes ont he Leica lenses - will the lack of them on the Zeiss make a difference?

If it's an issue on the Zeiss lenses, it will be an issue with all of the old Leica lenses as well. Shouldn't be an issue.

 

[humanized_form]

Huh? If camera is in AE mode, won't the shutter change accordingly? That's the way it works on the ZI, or so I've been told, even though it displays one number for the shutter, there's an "in between" shutter. Right?

i don't know about the Ikon, but i do this all the time with my M7.

i shoot slide film and use the auto mode as a live light meter with the stepless shutter speeds displayed in the viewfinder. so i just scan the scene and meter as i like, once i see what i want regarding shutter speed i half press the shutter which locks the speed. i can then tweak the aperture ring for any exposure compensation, as the shutter speed remains locked, and take the picture. this is super quick and works great as the M7 meter is very accurate. i prefer this method to twiddling with the exposure compensation dials on the back of the M7 (Ikon design seems better in that regard).

kevin