Zoom or primes for X-e series ? ?

yinyangbt

MFL addicted
Local time
1:18 PM
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
117
Location
Romania
What do you prefer? On the X-T series, being of a reflex shape a zoom can balance ok, but on the rangefinder-like X-e? How do you think /feel about? What's your experience? I am still confused trying to decide for a light and small solution for street/travel/take everywhere
 
I need to add a side grip when I use the 18-55 (or any "large-ish lens) on my X-E1 or X-A1. That makes the whole set not small.
Also .... "street/travel/take everywhere" is kind of conflicting.
Travel? - zoom
Street? / Take everywhere? - I'd go with what Joe said.
 
It sounds good on paper, but I don't think the OIS is really very effective, so it is not something to rely on.

One of the many things I like about the RF format is the way you can brace the camera against your nose and cheek to add to the stability. One of the benefits of being a geezer is that I learned to shoot before the days of IS, AF, AE and all those letters.
 
How do you think /feel about? What's your experience? I am still confused trying to decide for a light and small solution for street/travel/take everywhere

I do not attempt to rely on one lens for a one-lens solution. Instead, depending on what I will be shooting, where I will be shooting, and how long I will be shooting, I choose between the zoom, the small prime, or the smaller camera in my equipment inventory.
 
XF 18mm f2 and XF 50mm f2 was my light street/travel kit.

XF 27mm is nice too but I don't like that it doesn't have aperture dial on the lens
 
On my X-T2 I tend to use the 18-55mm and the 50mm. On the X-Pro2, I tend to use the 27mm and the 35mm. Stabilization doesn't work for how I photograph most of the time.
 
If you use a thumb grip, the balance magically improves with any lens.

Well, maybe not the long heavy zooms....
 
Don't you miss the image stabilisation on the primes in low light?

Nope.

I just shoot raw at base ISO (200) and push global brightness during post-production. The sensor noise levels are essentially ISO invariant (within ~ 1/3 stop).

In extreme low light, I use ISO 1600 and do the same. Above ISO 1600 ISO switches to from electronic amplification to digital multiplication.

So, I just set the appropriate shutter time and, or aperture and ignore the meter. Often I auto bracket a three exposure aperture burst by 1/3 or 1/2 stops and pick the best exposure (the one that retains useful highlight region detail) and delete the others.

For XTrans III sensors (X-Pro2, X100F, XT-2, XE-3) I use ISO 800 instead of 200. These cameras have dual-gain sensor technology. There's no S/N advantage from using ISO above 800 in extreme low light.


The only disadvantage is in-camera image review is not practical.
 
Now that the price is irresistibly cheap I have just bought an X-E2 and very much like the 27mm on it, it's a really compact combination. The 18mm is nice because it's also very light but I think the 18-55mm is lusting after an X-T1/X-T2 body (but only in its dreams for the moment).
 
I used the 18-55 on my XE2 on a recent trip. They worked fine together, at for me. Gave great results. I am however a prime user mainly. I recently bought the X100F and will use that as my main camera and will put my XE2 and 35/2 up for sale. I don’t really need interchangeable options any more.

Paul
 
I used the 18-55 on my XE2 on a recent trip. They worked fine together, at for me. Gave great results. I am however a prime user mainly. I recently bought the X100F and will use that as my main camera and will put my XE2 and 35/2 up for sale. I don’t really need interchangeable options any more.

Paul

no need for interchangeable options?
can i ask why?
 
For some , like one of my friends (he's a 50mm guy -well in fact a 75mm in FF terms - imagine he goes on travel hollidays with only that !), there is only one focal with wich they are comfortable .... I am somewhere in the middle .I'd like two.
 
Back
Top Bottom