Zorki.3 - more light than needed

[reagan]

Note: Whereas, there's some really good service info *stickied* in the FSU forum. And whereas, I searched FSU titles for the words "light leak" and got 36 hits. So maybe someone with lots of skills / knowledge / experience in FSUdom should start [and sticky] an "FSU Light Leak Database" with image examples and possible solutions. Just sayin' ...

Okay, here's my current tale of woe. My beloved Zorki.3 produced a gaggle of images on the last roll, several of which, looked similar to this one.

Yes, the streak extends into the sprocket holes. It seems to be coming from the top. This would indicate to me it needs some seals in the back. Tell me if I'm wrong.

The weird part: It usually has a straight edge on one side. Always at slower speeds, 1/50, 1/25. Speeds 1/100 & up, no problem. If it's the back, the speeds have nothing to do with it.

I'm digging out the yak string and nukempucky. Talk to me.

 

[wolves3012]

Does the back fit tightly? Any screw(s) or other obvious places light could be entering? Contrary to popular belief, there is no yak-twine as a light-seal in the FED/Zorki/Kievs, not as standard. None of mine has it and they don't leak. Light-seal consists solely of the black double-trap of the shape of the interlock.

Years ago, my sister worked in X-ray, the entrance to the processing lab had no door (how would you open it with hands full?). Instead, it had a double-trap painted matt black, kind of enlarged version of the back-seals on these cameras but with a human-size gap. It did not leak light.

 

[Landshark]

It doesn't have to be the back. Missing a screw on either end? Wind or counter area?
It's not as likely to be the rewind side since the film goes back into the cartridge.
It doesn't look likely to be the shutter dragging but remove the lens and watch the shutter travel across the film plane. slow speed please.

 

[reagan]

You're right, wolves. No, I wasn't really reaching for the cherished yak hair string ... yet ... and I haven't actually tried that remedy on any of my Russians. yet. 😉

But yep, the back seems to fit just fine. Locks work great and keep it pretty snug and when locked in place, I can't feel any movement in it at all. I've checked the interlocking grooves and they seem pretty clean and clear all around, no gouges, etc. One spot has some paint missing in the bottom of the groove that I thought I'd try to redo. I'm going to pull out the leedle screwdrivers tonight and give all the screws a snug-check.

No, it doesn't have be the back, but it's hard to get light in the sprocket holes from the front. I'll double-check inside ends. And IMO, its a pretty good leak. Should be something obvious. (Famous last words as my sanity slips away. :bang: )

It hasn't been CLA'd while in my possession, but the camera just doesn't have that much wear and tear on it. The curtains look in good shape and speeds sound fine. I've cocked it slowly and fired it numberous times today, in all speeds, shining a flashlight from every angle during wind-on. It's just kinda-sorta got me baffled.

Thanks for the re:'s guys. I'm listening.

 

[batterytypehah!]

Well for what it's worth, my '67 Zorki-4 definitely does have a length of black string running along the upper groove. Barely based on looks, it does not scream home repair to me, and has been there for a long time.

reagan, are you positive it's related to the shutter speed? Couldn't be anything else, like low ambient light or an everready case, that kept the leak from affecting all the frames?

I haven't a clue, of course. Just so we don't go off chasing ghosts.

 

[reagan]

batteryt... No, I'm doubting the shutter speeds are related. Just something I noticed looking at scanned images. Then neg inspection showed light to the edge of the film, so I'm looking closely at the back and ends. I just checked and snugged all body screws. Now for the flashlight and magnifying glass ...

Edit & P.S. - Tomorrow a test roll, with which I'm sure, black electrical tape will be involved.

 

[fanshaw]

In my experience a white patch on colour film is caused by light entering from the front of the camera. Leaks from the back usually cause orange marks.

 

[Keith]

Weren't you the one splitting your sides laughing while we were posting our problems with our cameras at the beginning of the latest FSU contest? :angel:

😀

 

[reagan]

Weren't you the one splitting your sides laughing while we were posting our problems with our cameras at the beginning of the latest FSU contest? :angel: 😀

Haaa!! Absolutely I was! Laughing profusely because I could soooo relate. And I thought I had all things Russian in pretty decent order. Being delusional has it's advantages. Now in the last 2 - 3 weeks I've burned a hole in the shutter of my black Zorki.1 and discovered this annoying little flare up in my Zorki.3. Two outta three of my favorite FSU shooters are on the down-n'-out list. Geez Louise. Yeah, the little Zorkis are cheap, but its best to have about six of 'em so you don't find yourself suddenly cameraless.

Yep, fanshaw, searching old threads, I found a couple of my own posts where I wrote the same assumption. We'll see if it rings true. Like I said, I'm a little baffled here, but should have some more info this evening.

 

[farlymac]

Weren't you the one splitting your sides laughing while we were posting our problems with our cameras at the beginning of the latest FSU contest? :angel:

😀

As a friend of mine on another forum says, "Karma is a bummer" 😀

Check the rangefinder area, Reagan.

PF

 

[nthearle]

Could it possibly be leaking round the strap lug rivet on the take up side?

 

[reagan]

Test roll #1: 8 shots, various speeds, bright sun & shade then 8 shots, same regimen, after applying electrical tape to seal all around the back and ends.

Results? A couple of smidgens of light along the film's edge on frames shot w/o tape. Not really enough though, to be conclusive. Test roll #2 tomorrow.

PS - I checked the integrity of the strap lugs. Seem fine. And I covered the RF/VF housing for a few shots. We'll see.

 

[reagan]

Test roll #2: 6 shots, nothing covered, some flare. -- 6 shots, RF housing covered, some flare -- 6 shots, RF housing covered, back covered, no flare.
Test roll #3: (Monday) 20 shots, back covered, no case, camera in constant light.

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

When the camera is open you find a thin black metal shield at the bottom hiding the flat release spring and also the tiny screws for tensioning the curtain springs. However it also hides the break for the second (closing) curtain. Check whether your plate has been bent inside thereby obstucting the break (the break is a tiny almost round disk that must be able to turn freely). If the break is obstructed the second (closing) curtain might not close at the right speed at certain shutterspeeds and this may lead to what might appear as a light leak. Hope this helps.

Below a picture of a Z4 that I recently CLA'd (and partly fixed) for a fellow member. The camera was in need of new light seals at the back and sides (never use foam for that!) - hope he doesn't mind showing the picture, it is the more rare Z4: commemorative 50 years revolution:

 

[reagan]

"If the break is obstructed the second (closing) curtain might not close at the right speed at certain shutterspeeds and this may lead to what might appear as a light leak.

Hey Ron, Thanks for looking in! Yep, I actually did check that, but your reminder sent me back to check it closer today as I loaded film. Looks pretty straight to me. What do you think? However, I believe the malady you describe would cause more of an even band of light all the way across the image as opposed to a more one-sided flare that I'm dealing with. I could be wrong.

So I'm loaded up, taped up and a few images into test roll #3. (Good thing I got light leaks or I wouldn't be shootin' at all! 🙄 )

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Hey Ron, Thanks for looking in! Yep, I actually did check that, but your reminder sent me back to check it closer today as I loaded film. Looks pretty straight to me. What do you think? However, I believe the malady you describe would cause more of an even band of light all the way across the image as opposed to a more one-sided flare that I'm dealing with. I could be wrong.

So I'm loaded up, taped up and a few images into test roll #3. (Good thing I got light leaks or I wouldn't be shootin' at all! 🙄 )

Yep, guess in that case the 'light leak' would have a more straight line form, but always good to check that point since it may have been overlooked. The plate on your zorki looks fine btw.
good luck with the test roll

 

[reagan]

Ok, I'm on a road trip, so I only got to take a quick look at the negs after several days of shooting the Z.3 w/tape around back cover. Result? More of the same. zjeesh.

So I'm thinkin' it must be, as has been suggested earlier, leak from the front ... maybe RF housing? When I get home with some more time, I'll have to give some thinkin' to how I'm going to approach this. Not real crazy about draggin' out the screw drivers, but even an occasional ruined shot b/c of a light leak is just not acceptable. It's playin' Zorki Roulette - bang, a good shot trashed.