Zorki 3m shutter issue

[davidnewtonguitars]

On it's first roll of film, I see a dark band on the right, on all the daylight pictures. There were 2 pics on the roll using longer shutter speeds, an indoor shot at 1/30, and a night-time 1 second, no band.

If I flip the picture, that would be the closing side of the shutter, so is the shutter "slightly capping"?
I have adjusted a Zorki - 1 using Fedka's instruction of reducing the tension of the take-up rollers to the lowest tension that pulls the curtains smoothly across. Do you think those instructions are applicable to the Zorki 3m also?
Or... should I leave well-enough alone, since it appears on a very small part of the frame, and I generally crop my pictures some anyway.

 

[Sega]

Pretty much all of the Fed, Zorki and Zenit line use the same guts, taken from reverse engineering a Leica II, so it should be the same to adjust however disassembly can sometimes be different so have a good read up before taking it apart.

 

[johnf04]

Possibly shutter bounce? That would account for the longer exposure of that strip.

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

Possibly shutter bounce? That would account for the longer exposure of that strip.

Thanks for that... does high spring tension make the shutter bounce?
Feels like the springs are wound up tighter than necessary. I think my seller, even though he services the camera before selling it, tensions the springs tighter than necessary. On my other camera, loosening them made it run just as well and quieter.

Pretty much all of the Fed, Zorki and Zenit line use the same guts, taken from reverse engineering a Leica II, so it should be the same to adjust however disassembly can sometimes be different so have a good read up before taking it apart.

Thanks, on the Zorki 1 the tension screws are right there on the bottom. There is the slow speed escapement on the 3m, so I guess taking the cover off, 2 screws, will expose the spring screws.

 

[Sega]

I couldn't confirm but my 4s and 4K are like that, plate of what feels like steel secured with screws and under that is the tension screws.

 

[nzeeman]

no no it's not shutter bounce - it's capping - it's darker that means it got less light... and yes you can use curtain tension instructions for any FSU.. it's best to go from untensioned and slowly add tension until both curtain pass whole way smoothly...

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

Thanks for the advice, I adjusted the roller tensions today and it sounds better than before, but no film test yet. The 3m has a shutter brake that sticks out on the bottom, a spiral cam deal, but I don't know if it needs to be adjusted yet.

 

[nzeeman]

try to test it with tv... its cheaper than shooting and developing many times... http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html

 

[santino]

A bit off topic: Do you guys know of a repai person in Europe who would install new curtains in my 3m?
I think it is one of the best build fsu cameras and I like it a lot... but my curtains are wrinkled and slow the shutter down.

 

[rbiemer]

A bit off topic: Do you guys know of a repai person in Europe who would install new curtains in my 3m?
I think it is one of the best build fsu cameras and I like it a lot... but my curtains are wrinkled and slow the shutter down.

Oleg. See here:

https://okvintagecamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=144

He has repaired several cameras of mine over the years, including two different Zorki 3m cameras, and I have two more cameras I need to ship to him for servicing.
Excellent work, quick turn around time, and good pricing. Bonus: he is a member here.

Rob

 

[David Hughes]

I'll second that and I'm sure a lot of others will.

Regards, David

 

[santino]

Thanks.

Instead of buying another camera I should send in my 3m, 1d and Leningrad ��

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

try to test it with tv... its cheaper than shooting and developing many times... http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html

Since I don't have an old crt tv, and I can roll short test rolls & develop them in the kitchen, it will be cheaper that way. Besides, the Zorki is my #3 camera, after the #1 & #2 Leica, but it is a tough camera for rough carrying.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I have couple of fsu cameras with this defect. And with uneven exposures.
Using CRT screen does give anything. I'm too slow to read the picture which lasts 1/30.
My last hope is described at rff method with light source behind shutter and taking image with digital camera, With this method I'm able to see difference between cameras with even and uneven exposures.

 

[Sega]

Thanks.

Instead of buying another camera I should send in my 3m, 1d and Leningrad ��

It depends on how much they mean to you and price to replace them.

My first Zorki 4 I'd probably spend on as it's sentimental to me but with the others I'd replace or try and fix myself as I can replace them for £20 due to the UK being full of them thanks to heavy importing, other markets though this might not be the case so I would say do a little research and decide what works out best for you.

 

[David Hughes]

Thanks.

Instead of buying another camera I should send in my 3m, 1d and Leningrad ��

Hi,

I don't think, for one moment, that you will regret it. I have an elderly Zorki 1 and sent it to Oleg years ago and it came back transformed. It felt just like my Leica II. Can I say more?

I'll offer a little advice, send them in one at a time; the oldest first...

Regards, David