Zorki 5 Camera

ZorkiKat said:
One more thing: there is an odd design issue found in the Z-5 which was resolved in the Z-6. In the Z-5, the shutter should not be cocked without any lens on the camera.

Without the lens, the RF sensor extends out of the lens mount, and in doing so, the RF parts on the top plate wanders into the area where the shutter speed disc rotates. The RF part concerned can mesh with the shutter mechanism and damage these parts. Having a lens on the camera pushes the sensor back and limits the movement of the RF parts on the top plate.

Jay
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This is a great advice, Jay. Thanks. I usually play with cameras without a lens on each, but with the Zorki-5 I will make sure to have a lens mounted on it.

Raid
 
I have two Zorki-5's, both second version, and both with 1958 serial numbers. I love their design and I love their feel and handling. I believe they will go down as one of the classic FSU cameras along with the FED-2 and few others. They seem to be an oddity in Zorki evolution because they are bottom loaders seven years after the removable back was introduced in the Zorki-3, they have a lever advance fourteen years before the 4K, and they have the longest rangefinder base of any Zorki (67mm - same as the FED-2). It would not be too hard to imagine (although I am not suggesting that it is the case) that they are fashioned after the Leica M3 which only pre-dated them by four years. On the subject of it being a bottom loader there are advantages to that design which don't get much mention: firstly that the one-piece continuous body shell is stronger than one with removable or hinged back, and secondly that they are less prone to light leaks. Don't forget that Leica has persisted with bottom loading right up to the present time, although the M series has a hinged flap on the back as well.
 
""The "M" designation often stands for an improved model, take it to mean (but not really so) as 'modernised' or 'modified' ""

Yeah, the EM :) .. I often used my TTL as a secondary camera with a different lens on it, OK, it was`t as refined as the Spotmatic or as easy to focus (let alone the K1000 which I replaced it with) but it always worked and the meter was very good.. the downer was the Helios "44M" 58mm F2 lens which was dreamy unless pretty well stopped down and wasn`t a patch on the Jupiter-8 (I wasn`t expecting much from the first J8 after my experience with KMZs M42 F2 effort - it came as a Shock when it was excellent !) .. I used my SMC Takumars on it anyway, the Helios only got used twice and never again, I gave it away with the camera a couple of years ago..
 
Well stated, w.Legend. Zorki.5 is somewhat a "sleeper" between the popular Zorki.1s & 4s.

It's a beautiful cloudy, grey, drizzly, cold, depressing... normal Illinois day. Think I'll load the Fiver and hit the streets... ehhh, go to the Coffee Shop.
 
I am starting to like the Zorki-5. It looks really cool,and having a long RF baseis a great advantage for more accurate focusing.

Raid
 
Which Zorki-5's have the square rangefinder window? I had been thinking of using the top cover from one of those to put it on my otherwise fine Zorki-6.
 
rxmd said:
Which Zorki-5's have the square rangefinder window? I had been thinking of using the top cover from one of those to put it on my otherwise fine Zorki-6.
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Looks like there's "Type.1" and "Type.2" ..... check it out.

http://www.russianplaza.com/Zorki I 1 2 3 4 5 6 C M.htm

Mine has the round and is has a very distinct and good sized round RF patch. I rather like it.

cheers
 
Just to add my praises to the talk of the Z five. I love mine - the first time I held it, it felt perfect in my hands and the heavy wind and bottom loading really don't matter. It came with a rigid black I50 lens which turns out great images. I think it looks cool and functions well.
 
rxmd said:
Which Zorki-5's have the square rangefinder window? I had been thinking of using the top cover from one of those to put it on my otherwise fine Zorki-6.
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That's what had crossed my mind also. I think that it would take a little more engineering than I would want as the top casing is higher than the 6. Even the 5b has a higher casing, which otherwise looks identical to the 6.

Dave...
 

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Today I used the Zorki-5 for the first time. I was for a surprise; I had no clue how to set the speed dial. The speeds are clearly marked on the dial but there is no reference point to allign with the speed. Can someone here point meto that obscure reference point? Thanks.

Raid
 
There may have been a small dot of paint that wore off. The reference point should be due west, or 9 o'clock. In other words left. You can locate it by finding where the B setting is (shutter open).
 
Yeah Raid, there's a small dot (mine is engraved) on the center of the shutter speed selector. It's teeeeeiiiiiinyyyy, but it's there. And fraley is right, when the shutter ISN'T cocked, it's almost at the 9 o'clock position. But it turns with the winding of the film/shutter.
 

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I just checked both of mine. One has the dot at about 3 o'clock before cocking the shutter, and the other is at about 4 o'clock. I guess that one of the consistencies of FSU manufacture is that they are always inconsistent.
 
Now I have another challenge with the Zorki-5. I discovered that the roll of film never moved inside the camera even though I had trimmed the film down. I now feel as if there is something blocking the film advancement. I set the camera on B and I removed whatever film I could find, but there still seems to be something blocking film advance. I don't want to have someone take the camera apart because of this. This is a problem with bottom loading cameras; you can't see what is going "there". Do you have any tips what to do next?


Raid
 
raid said:
Now I have another challenge with the Zorki-5. I discovered that the roll of film never moved inside the camera even though I had trimmed the film down. I now feel as if there is something blocking the film advancement. I set the camera on B and I removed whatever film I could find, but there still seems to be something blocking film advance. I don't want to have someone take the camera apart because of this. This is a problem with bottom loading cameras; you can't see what is going "there". Do you have any tips what to do next?


Raid
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When this happens in an otherwise OK camera, it could only be due to the film.
First, make sure that the film is properly cut- not necessarily as clean as an ABLON trimmer would do it- but just so that the leader is of the right length (20 perforations long, about 10 cm), slopes gently, no sharp corner at the 'shoulder' and no cut on the perforation.

Then, make sure that the tip is properly secured to the take-up. Leitz and Canon made their spools with good springs which gripped the film tip well. The soviets never seemed to be able to match this so they did the next best thing: put a little hook at the tip of the spring catch so that the film is positively caught. Whether this system is superior or not is debatable- it does grip the film elegantly, but it also tears the film when it is pulled off during the rewind.
Almost all chips found in the mechanism come from this.

If the loading is properly done, the film should thread properly through the film channel. But if it's caught somewhere or somehow (usually with improperly cut leaders), the part of the leader which is on the sprocket teeth will tear. Once torn -even a tiny tear in the perforation is enough- the film won't move. It will be just like what you described: it will b as if something is blocking the movement of the film.

Just a speculation- what you've observed may well be due to something else.

Jay
 
Jay: I spent last night 30 minutes on the Zorki-5, trying to figure out the source of the problem. I will try tonight to get a roll of film properly threaded by using some outdated film. So you suspect a mechanical problem? Thanks for the tips.

Raid
 
raid said:
Jay: I spent last night 30 minutes on the Zorki-5, trying to figure out the source of the problem. I will try tonight to get a roll of film properly threaded by using some outdated film. So you suspect a mechanical problem? Thanks for the tips.

Raid
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Raid,

I would check the film first. Would you still be able to examine the leader of the film you loaded? If a tear mark is found on it , that should tell all. I would not immediately suspect mechanical problems until film loading issues have been resolved.

Jay
 
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