YEN
Member
Hi,
I've got my first Zorki-5. It's beautiful. But when I pull the film advance lever, it makes a continuous click sound. Which is very different from all my other Zorki and FED-3, FED-4 lever version.
Is this normal or should I do something to fix it?
Thanks.
Yen
I've got my first Zorki-5. It's beautiful. But when I pull the film advance lever, it makes a continuous click sound. Which is very different from all my other Zorki and FED-3, FED-4 lever version.
Is this normal or should I do something to fix it?
Thanks.
Yen
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
Not normal. Guess the spring that 'unwinds' the advance lever is catching up with the gear underneath the advance lever; it should be running free.
YEN
Member
wolves3012
Veteran
I'm afraid I'll beg to differ with Ron on this. The Zorki 5 has a kind of double-ratchet on the winder, it clicks on both directions of the wind lever. There's a sort of "zzzzzip" sound as you wind the film advance, especially if you do so quickly. Unlike other FSU lever-winds.
YEN
Member
Thank you both for the clarification.
Anyway, I have to open the top and to lubricate the gears. Hope I can transfer the "click noise" into "zip sound".
Anyway, I have to open the top and to lubricate the gears. Hope I can transfer the "click noise" into "zip sound".
fidget
Lemon magnet
I hope that you enjoy your 5A. My 5A (1st variant) is my favourite FSU cam
and my user FSU cam is a 2nd variant (one with the round VF and RF).
Good luck with the service and don't forget that the collar on the winding lever centre (that has to come off to get the top off) is on a left hand thread. It is easy to try in the wrong direction and tighten it so much that trying to undo it can cause damage to the gearing underneath.
Which variant did you get?
Dave
and my user FSU cam is a 2nd variant (one with the round VF and RF).
Good luck with the service and don't forget that the collar on the winding lever centre (that has to come off to get the top off) is on a left hand thread. It is easy to try in the wrong direction and tighten it so much that trying to undo it can cause damage to the gearing underneath.
Which variant did you get?
Dave
YEN
Member
What I've got is a 2nd version, with black vulcanite.
I got it because its long base line. I hope it will work better with my Jupiter-9 85mm than other bodies.
And I'm curious why collectors call it Russian Leica M3.
After all, it costs almost nothing.
Thanks for the tip for opening it. I've already took off the left hand threaded collar. I'll go deeper later. However the camera looks perfect, with a beautiful curtain and everything seems to be working fine.
I got it because its long base line. I hope it will work better with my Jupiter-9 85mm than other bodies.
And I'm curious why collectors call it Russian Leica M3.
After all, it costs almost nothing.
Thanks for the tip for opening it. I've already took off the left hand threaded collar. I'll go deeper later. However the camera looks perfect, with a beautiful curtain and everything seems to be working fine.
wolves3012
Veteran
Some tips for you when you've got the top cover off...
First, clean the VF/RF optics while you're in there. Zorki 5 has a really good VF so make sure you're getting the best from it.
The winder gears are relatively complex. It's been several years since I did mine but from memory there are three screws holding a plate in position, with the gear-mesh being adjustable via at least one of those screws. If you search the net, I'm sure there was a page explaining how. Make sure you adjust them so that the mesh is close enough for them not to slip but loose enough to be free. The winder on mine is absolutely the best of any of my FSUs, so aim for a smooth action. Zorki 5s are noted for grinding winders and it's only because someone mis-adjusted the mesh.
You'll also find re-fitting the winder spring is a bit tedious, patience will reward you here. Lastly, when you refit that left-hand threaded collar, make sure the threads are clean and lightly greased. Tighten the collar with your fingers until you feel the thread stop. Leave it at that, don't be tempted to tighten it with any tool! Periodically, loosen it and re-tighten finger-tight. They self-tighten in use and doing that will ensure it will come off again in future, if needed.
EDIT: I think the nickname comes only from the fact that it looks a bit like an M3 and is a similar size.
First, clean the VF/RF optics while you're in there. Zorki 5 has a really good VF so make sure you're getting the best from it.
The winder gears are relatively complex. It's been several years since I did mine but from memory there are three screws holding a plate in position, with the gear-mesh being adjustable via at least one of those screws. If you search the net, I'm sure there was a page explaining how. Make sure you adjust them so that the mesh is close enough for them not to slip but loose enough to be free. The winder on mine is absolutely the best of any of my FSUs, so aim for a smooth action. Zorki 5s are noted for grinding winders and it's only because someone mis-adjusted the mesh.
You'll also find re-fitting the winder spring is a bit tedious, patience will reward you here. Lastly, when you refit that left-hand threaded collar, make sure the threads are clean and lightly greased. Tighten the collar with your fingers until you feel the thread stop. Leave it at that, don't be tempted to tighten it with any tool! Periodically, loosen it and re-tighten finger-tight. They self-tighten in use and doing that will ensure it will come off again in future, if needed.
EDIT: I think the nickname comes only from the fact that it looks a bit like an M3 and is a similar size.
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fidget
Lemon magnet
Wolves is right about the amount of "fun" you can have trying to get the spring in position. I bought one of those "spring hook" sets (very cheap tool) and found it very useful for this job and for several other little jobs on cams.
Dave
Dave