filmordie
Newbie
Hi everybody, I am new here (as a member) and am grateful for the help I have already found in these threads. The project on the table now is a Zorki 5, (early). The problem is that when the shutter is fired the curtains snap across the film plane together, no separation. The film advance is good, actually pretty smooth, even the shutter speeds seem pretty close by ear. Even on bulb the curtains stay closed as they snap across. Here is some background, I took an $8 chance on eBay, when I took the top off, (thanks to TVphotog's post) it was obvious that it had been apart before (minor scratching on screw-heads and so-on) the appearance is very-good to excellent with no obvious signs of breakage inside, mild dirtiness. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. I looked through the site but couldn't find the exact problem, if I missed it, I apologize for repetition.
OK, having taken a closer look, I see the crescent shaped gizmo next to the speed control was sitting way up off the deck and its spring was under it. I wiggled it down where it needs to sit to mesh with the speed control cam, hooked the spring and BINGO!, it still doesn't work. However, if I press the crescent down instead of the release button, the shutter will work on "B", it may may work at other speeds but I don't have enough hands or fingers to do this at other speeds, hold it safely, and see inside. I will post pics before and after. there seems to be an issue with the mesh of the crescent to the speed cam.
OK, having taken a closer look, I see the crescent shaped gizmo next to the speed control was sitting way up off the deck and its spring was under it. I wiggled it down where it needs to sit to mesh with the speed control cam, hooked the spring and BINGO!, it still doesn't work. However, if I press the crescent down instead of the release button, the shutter will work on "B", it may may work at other speeds but I don't have enough hands or fingers to do this at other speeds, hold it safely, and see inside. I will post pics before and after. there seems to be an issue with the mesh of the crescent to the speed cam.
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filmordie
Newbie
First pic try failed. This should show you the pics.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128989732@N06/33735788621/in/album-72157682260914855/ (spring is in proper place)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128989732@N06/33021467264/in/album-72157682260914855/ (crescent has been re-seated)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128989732@N06/33735788621/in/album-72157682260914855/ (spring is in proper place)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128989732@N06/33021467264/in/album-72157682260914855/ (crescent has been re-seated)
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seany65
Well-known
Hello and welcome to the forum filmordie. I'm sure you'll get soem info about your problems.
I'd like to help, but I know almost nothing abot almost everything.
I'd like to help, but I know almost nothing abot almost everything.
filmordie
Newbie
Update. So after some cleaning and adjusting I have learned that the shutter curtains may be cranked up too tight. I looked at the tension screws and the center screws are screwed down so far it's a wonder they are still holding onto the jam nuts. This I think it's putting so much tension on the shutter speed knob and shaft that when the shutter is released the cam shoots by the stop without grabbing it to give the second curtain its delay. I am going to try backing off the tension on the curtains perhaps one full turn and see how that affects the shutter release.
R
rick oleson
Guest
Before you get too far along, take a close look at the mechanism that releases the second curtain: there is an arc-shaped lever, about an inch long, that passes behind the shutter speed dial under the top cover. When you set the shutter speed, the thing that drops into the notch for the speed has a kind of club-shaped arm above it that swings around as the shutter speed dial spins during exposure. This club bats a protrusion on the arc-shaped lever as it goes by, and the movement of the arc-shaped lever is what releases the second curtain. Trace through these parts, and find why the lever is not holding the second curtain back as it should prior to being whacked out of the way.
These notes describe the system. This is based on a Leica, but the FED and Zorki are identical in this area: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x57ddp0og7z2dlg/HIW-Leica.pdf?dl=0
These notes describe the system. This is based on a Leica, but the FED and Zorki are identical in this area: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x57ddp0og7z2dlg/HIW-Leica.pdf?dl=0
tunalegs
Pretended Artist
Also, surprised nobody has mentioned this: you MUST have the lens on this camera when firing the shutter!
R
rick oleson
Guest
Thanks for that tip! I've never noticed anything to this effect on any other LTM camera .... just read up on the reason for this quirk on Camerapedia. This can complicate the process of checking shutter speeds and inspecting for pinholes.
wolves3012
Veteran
Excessive tension on the curtain rollers could cause the second curtain release to be overpowered and pushed aside prematurely. These shutters, when properly cleaned and lubricated, will run with very little tension. Typically, you should have 3-4 turns on the first curtain roller and about a turn less on the second.
I'd also investigate the latch spring (on the crescent-shaped arm) if reducing the roller tensions fails to cure it. Too much or too little tension on the latch will cause problems. Too little is often because the spring hasn't been fitted properly but it's fairly obvious if so. Too much tension on the latch can cause erratic problems on some speeds, usually the faster ones.
As noted above, be sure to have a lens fitted when cocking and firing the shutter, or else press the lens coupling lever inwards a little. The RF coupling and shutter mechanisms can collide if you don't (oddly, this doesn't happen on mine).
I'd also investigate the latch spring (on the crescent-shaped arm) if reducing the roller tensions fails to cure it. Too much or too little tension on the latch will cause problems. Too little is often because the spring hasn't been fitted properly but it's fairly obvious if so. Too much tension on the latch can cause erratic problems on some speeds, usually the faster ones.
As noted above, be sure to have a lens fitted when cocking and firing the shutter, or else press the lens coupling lever inwards a little. The RF coupling and shutter mechanisms can collide if you don't (oddly, this doesn't happen on mine).