Zorki 6...Question.

arbib

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I am looking at getting a Zorki 6. My main worry is buying one that may have RF damage from winding and tripping the shutter "Without" a lens mounted.

I understand the "6" has an improved shutter. But does that include a fix that allows the shutter to tripped without a lens mounted and NOT get damaged??

Buying a used one is risky with that "Shutter/RF" problem. If it still excites in the "6"..
 
I've never heard about this "winding and tripping the shutter "Without" a lens" problem.

Is there something different about the 6 ?

Taken from a sticky thread at the beginning of FSU Forum..."
Selecting an FSU camera: Beginner's Guide
...
Zorki 5
There are 2 variations on this model. The first has red-lettered front engraving and square VF/RF windows and is considered less reliable. The second has a round RF window, a screwed-on front nameplate and is more reliable. The Zorki 5 was the first lever-wind model (it pre-dates the 4K) and reverts to bottom-loading. The lever-wind on these models can give trouble and be quite rough unless set-up properly. The model also incorporates a more accurate long-base RF system, loses the self-timer but includes strap-lugs. There are no "slow" speeds. Flash-synch is fixed, with a socket each for bulb and electronic flash. There is one special caveat with this model alone: If the shutter is wound or fired with the lens removed, the shutter mechanism can be damaged. The RF mechanism is so close, internally, to the shutter mechanism that they can collide if the RF cam is fully extended, as it will be with no lens on the body. NEVER wind or fire the shutter unless a lens is fitted, or the RF cam held in slightly.

Zorki 6
This is a derivation of the Zorki 5. It has a hinged-opening back, a self timer and a much-improved winder mechanism that rarely gives trouble. It is, otherwise, virtually the same as the Zorki 5.
....
 
I have a zorki 6 that I have fired many times without a lens. Sometimes to check the shutter speeds using the tv method, and sometimes I just like to push the shutter and feel/hear it trip. No problems ever with the shutter.
 
I have a zorki 6 that I have fired many times without a lens. Sometimes to check the shutter speeds using the tv method, and sometimes I just like to push the shutter and feel/hear it trip. No problems ever with the shutter.

Thanks. Puts me at rest on buying a untested by me used Z-6
 
I may have read somewhere that starting from Zorki 6, this problem was taken care of. I have a Zorki-4 and a 6, so I will not fire off the shutter without a lens on the camera.
 
I have a zorki 6 that I have fired many times without a lens. Sometimes to check the shutter speeds using the tv method, and sometimes I just like to push the shutter and feel/hear it trip. No problems ever with the shutter.

Sorry if this is a dumb newbie question, but what is the 'tv method'?
 
I may have read somewhere that starting from Zorki 6, this problem was taken care of. I have a Zorki-4 and a 6, so I will not fire off the shutter without a lens on the camera.

You might have read it. It may have been written by Llewis Carrol along with his other stories. It's a complete myth. There is no connection betwen the lens and the shutter othewr than light rays. So click awayu to your heat's content. Further to that, The Zorki 6 is no different from all its siblingfs in this respect.
 
You might have read it. It may have been written by Llewis Carrol along with his other stories. It's a complete myth. There is no connection betwen the lens and the shutter othewr than light rays. So click awayu to your heat's content. Further to that, The Zorki 6 is no different from all its siblingfs in this respect.


Not to flatly contradict, but this is nonsense. My '64 Z6
has the problem. You just don't know until you pull
the top cover and check clearances.

martin
 
Not to flatly contradict, but this is nonsense. My '64 Z6
has the problem. You just don't know until you pull
the top cover and check clearances.

martin

Is this because of the longer RF base?.. Or just design difference in the Z5/Z6...Does the Fed2 have a similar problem...Since Both the Z6/F6 are based on the Fed 2. ??

Is Fedka a good source to buy from..Is there rating system fairly accurate?

So Many Questions, So Little Time :confused:
 
Maizenberg warns against firing the shutter of the Zorki-5 with the lens removed. Removal of the lens allows the rangefinder arm to extend and move the rangefinder parts inside the top so that they get in the way of a part of the shutter mechanism. I have not seen a suggestion that this problem occurs with any other fsu camera.
 
Is Fedka a good source to buy from..Is there rating system fairly accurate?

Fedka is far and away my prefered source. He has good gear & rates it well. Plus he has a good warrenty on what he sells. I've bought elsewhere successfully but when I want to _know_ something will work, I get it from Fedka.

HTH,

William
 
Is this because of the longer RF base?.. Or just design difference in the Z5/Z6...Does the Fed2 have a similar problem...Since Both the Z6/F6 are based on the Fed 2. ??

Is Fedka a good source to buy from..Is there rating system fairly accurate?

So Many Questions, So Little Time :confused:

I've never heard of the Fed-2 having this problem. The Zorki-5/6 aren't based on the Fed-2, but rather the Zorki-2 or 2s. After starting with Leica II copies, Fed and Zorki pursued separate design paths. It's interesting to see where each ended up.

Fedka is just about the best there is for FSU gear. I've found his ratings to be accurate, and he has a warranty/return policy. His customer service and communications are first rate.
 
Just to elaborate, since I wrote the guide: The Zorki FIVE has this problem, the RF mechanism can collide with the shutter mechanism if a lens is not mounted. The clearances on a Zorki SIX are greater and this should not happen. On the Zorki 5 the risk is greatest if the shutter is wound with no lens attached, since the force from the winder is quite capable of breaking something. Tripping the shutter is less risky but I would still advise against it very strongly! Holding the RF sensor inwards avoids the risk but is fiddly.

Just to re-iterate, this problem ONLY affects the Zorki 5.
 
Just to elaborate, since I wrote the guide: The Zorki FIVE has this problem, the RF mechanism can collide with the shutter mechanism if a lens is not mounted. The clearances on a Zorki SIX are greater and this should not happen. On the Zorki 5 the risk is greatest if the shutter is wound with no lens attached, since the force from the winder is quite capable of breaking something. Tripping the shutter is less risky but I would still advise against it very strongly! Holding the RF sensor inwards avoids the risk but is fiddly.

Just to re-iterate, this problem ONLY affects the Zorki 5.

Thanks for the clarity on the Z6
 
I got three FSU's a couple of months ago, a Fed 3(a), Fed 3(b), and a Z-6, all in nice shape with the Fed 3(a) having the most (many) miles on it. After using all three for this short time a couple of things jump out: the 3(a) was the quietest and smoothest, maybe because it was the most heavily used of the three by far. However, when Yuri at Fedka got done with the 3(b) IT is now the quietest and smoothest, and is a nearly new camera. The Zorki 6 has the brightest viewfinder (the Feds are ok, just not surprisingly bright like the Zorki), and the Z-6 also has a rough, sticky shutter button. The shutter button position on the Z-6 is also not nearly as comfortable as on the Feds, either. Located on the center post of the winder lever, it doesn't "fall to hand" naturally as do the releases on the Feds. My Z-6 is practically new, with no indication the body was ever actually used, except the case has some scuffs -- although that might not be the original case, either. I'm sending it next week to Yuri for a CLA, and fully expect he will have the shutter release working butter-smooth when I get it back. With it's excellent viewfinder, I think I can get used to the awkward (to me at least) shutter release position.

I think these FSU cameras suffer more from shelf disease and lack of use than from anything else. The older and more heavily used they are, the slicker and smoother they seem to work, which maybe makes perfect sense for a piece of precision machinery. Next time I think I'll ignore cosmetics and worry most about finding a good, well-brassed and heavily used camera!
 
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