Zorki 6 shutter slow and sticky

[Malcolm_J]

This thread will probably draw a huge yawn. I just took delivery of a Zorki 6, nice cosmetically, accurate rangefinder, but the shutter is slow and it sticks at 1/30th (acts like "B", the second curtain won't close until you release the button). All the other speeds are obviously slow, and the shutter is too quiet.

It is either lack of spring tension or lack of lube/too much old lube in the mechanism.

This is the 4th FSU camera I've bought, but the first I have had any bother with, and it was pretty cheap, so I am not exactly heartbroken. It goes with the territory of buying cheap cameras from far away that are almost as old as I am.

I have read the "sticky" thread on curtain tension, but he does say that you ought to deal with gummy shutter rails before tackling the spring tension issue.

What's the best way of checking the state of the guide rails and pulleys? The camera generally feels pretty "dry", as if any lube in it went hard decades ago. What should I use to clean and relube them?

Is this a full DLA job or can I get away with less of a "project"?

By the way, the shutters appear to be synchronised OK. They just don't move fast enough. By comparing with my other cameras, I would say the speeds are barely half what they should be, although they are progressive through the range.

Any guidance valued!

 

[wolves3012]

If the mechanics are running THAT slow it's highly likely that there's either dried up lube or a lack of lube that's causing it. A clean and lubed shutter requires very little tension to get it going at somewhere near the right speed, so it would have to be almost nil to slow it severely. Sounds like a full CLA needed. In any case, you won't know without pulling it apart to see.

The Zorki 6 is a nice camera when running properly, worth doing the job. Good luck

 

[Spyderman]

I have seen many FSU cameras as you describe... veeeery slooow shutter speeeeds. I think it's dried grease. And if the camera sits for long enough without exercise.... it will need some disassembly, removing the old grease, new lube and reassembly.
If you got it cheap, just go ahead the DIY way and learn "on the go". Take a digi P&S to document disassembly. (and for future reference... "where the hell does this screw belong :bang:" ? )
Use google to find some articles about disassembly of Z-6. I know there are some... and ask if you come to a dead end 🙂

Good luck.

 

[fidget]

I agree with the thought that you should be thinking of a CLA. It's not so hard (with some help from here) and can be very rewarding. I did battle with my Zorki 6 and learned quite a lot. There are a couple of sites which give good instruction on getting the top off and doing a top end CLA. If you do, I have a word of advice, remember that the threaded collar surrounding the release button (and the nut below it) is left hand thread. When you are re-assembling it put this on hand tight only, it can tighten as you wind. (an injudicious twist in the wrong direction led me to hours of repair to mine).

Dave...

 

[Malcolm_J]

The good news is that after a good deal of winding-on and firing, the Zorki is almost healthy. There is still a rasping at higher speeds, which I believe can be addressed by sparing lubrication of the curtain runners. It's a very nice little camera.

The Zorki 6 was meant to be my very last purchase. I can't believe it, but I went and bought a Zorki 4K. I really need help. At least this is a pretty cheap addiction.