Buenos Aires - yes, another travel thread

[whitecat]

I have been to BA twice and think it is very safe. I posted this before.....anyone know of a photofinishing place that can develop my 120 film in BA? Morgan, if you need any specific info on the city contact me.
Thanks

 

[ath]

Yes, the argentinians are very nice people, except the gang that robbed my photo-backpack in BA.

Be very careful, where you walk along and NEVER EVER walk alone. Take care.
But this applies to almost every very big city in the world.

 

[mike kim]

Yes, I guess it's like most big cities in the world. Except that in Buenos Aires, Bush's daughter had her purse stolen while guarded by the Secret Service. And that was in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo. The most crowded and popular park in San Telmo, which I would consider one of the safest too (I went to college there). So... you never know 😛

But don't worry that much... I go out with my M2 almost every day and never had a problem.

whitecat, I think Buenos Aires Color is a safe bet for 120.

 

[dshfoto]

I have been spending about 1/2 of my time in BsAs for the last 6 years. I have an R8 with a DMR, but I only use that inside Recoleta Cemetery. For the streets, I use a Praktica with a 28mm Yashica lens ($45 total), a Fuji GS645S ($350). I have use my M3 and a 50mm 1.4 on the streets as well.
If you go to a restaurant, or milonga, (Tango Dance) you cannot leave a camera on the table unattended.
I have never been bothered, or had a camera stolen, but I know many people who have had cameras stolen from purses, I also know people who have had the mustard trick played on them, and people who have been assaulted. In the case of the assualt the victim was wearing a gold Rolex.
Use your judgment, keep your eyes open, stay in well traveled areas. Don't take cabs from the front of the hotel or bank.
See Main Photo Gallery at:>
http://www.harrisfoto2.com/

Also, check out the Foto Club
http://www.fotoclubba.com.ar/


It's a great city -- have fun.
Steve
dshlaw@earthlink.net

 

[micromontenegro]

Bs As is a quite safe city, if you use common sense. Very good advice by SolaresLarrave above: do not miss the bife chorizo. Alsd bear in mind that Argentina is one helluva wine producer: you will be able to drink more high quality wine at lower prices than anywhere else. Local champagne (Chandon) is the nighclub staple, and it costs next to nothing.
And speakin of nights, everything happens at night. You will need high ISO and a disposition towards staying up late ;-)

 

[morgan]

We have the disposition for late-night fun, so we're pretty excited about that.

It's interesting to hear everyone's street-crime stories, even if a little worrisome. I'm oddly apprehensive now, and I've traveled a lot. Neither of us have super shiny jewelery/accessories, so that's a good thing, but we'll be sure to stay alert and keep an eye on all of our crap.

 

[morgan]

It's funny - I was reading some of these posts to my wife, and said I was a little apprehensive. She then began to rattle of the recent crimes just in Cambridge which is a really safe city (including an armed mugging across the street from our apt). She also reminded me of my sister getting mugged in Philly, my mom getting pickpocketed in NYC, her friend getting beat up in Boston. Crime is all around us, and I never really think about it as we go about our daily lives in the areas in which we live. It sounds like BA is no different than any other western city, just that I don't know it like I do Boston, NYC, Philly, or even european cities where I've spent a lot of time. I'm looking forward to getting to know BA in the week that we'll be there.

 

[phatnev]

It's funny - I was reading some of these posts to my wife, and said I was a little apprehensive. She then began to rattle of the recent crimes just in Cambridge which is a really safe city (including an armed mugging across the street from our apt). She also reminded me of my sister getting mugged in Philly, my mom getting pickpocketed in NYC, her friend getting beat up in Boston. Crime is all around us, and I never really think about it as we go about our daily lives in the areas in which we live. It sounds like BA is no different than any other western city, just that I don't know it like I do Boston, NYC, Philly, or even european cities where I've spent a lot of time. I'm looking forward to getting to know BA in the week that we'll be there.

You'll be fine. If you have common sense and it certainly seems like you do, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, and even if something happens, with that common sense you'll have gotten insurance on the gear so you'll be doubly fine! BA is next on my list for travel, I'm thinking I may go for 2 weeks by myself in November as a little "back to college" present for myself before I have to endure the tortures of the American university again.

 

[Olsen]

I think you overstate the danger of Buenos-Aires a little! Yes, there are some areas that you need to beware after dark (La Boca, San Telmo etc), but during the day, the whole city is very, very safe. Compared to the rest of South America, Buenos-Aires is not a dangerous city.

Like any other place, discretion and common sense is advised, but there is really nothing to worry about, and in most of the places a tourist will be at night (Recoletta, Palermo etc) you'll be more in danger of someone buying you a drink to discuss your gear, than stealing it...

Enjoy BA - it is one of my favourite cities. I try to spend at least a month a year in Argentina (my dad is Argentine), and find it one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries on earth (if also one of the most screwed up). If you can, try and get out of the city for a few days - the rolling Pampas are beautiful, as is the Andes city of Salta (a forty-minute flight), the falls of Iguazu and the rugged wasetlands of Patagonia.

Damn... now I've got to start planning my trip in October! 😀

My nephew, who has studied at the university in Buenos Aires was robbed, - or rather mugged, out of his wallet, wrist watch and camera (Canon G2). I don't know all the details of it, but he told me that 'all the European students' had similar episodes...

The camera, which was a Christmas present from me, - I am trying to instill some photo interest into the boy, was insured so he could duly pick a newer model down from the shelf. The wrist watch was a 'vantage Rollex' - he's a Rollex collector, was most likely the item that caught the muggers interest, he thinks. Even that was insured, but to have credit cards blocked etc. was a lot of hassle, - and the whole experience was 'unfriendly and unpleasant'. Which is sad, because I think he very much liked Buenos Aires and Argentina.

My nephew speaks fluent Spanish and very much interested in South America - he is very much a South America freak, and has travelled extentively aroud this continent, and can tell of the most hair raising stories about being robbed at gun point elsewhere in South America too. like in Sao Paulo, Brazil etc. The episode in Argentina was not at all the worst.

Still, I don't think that a RD-1 is the item that is going to catch the mugger's interest. It looks all too much old fashioned. Nor do I think that any digital camera will. It is cash, first of all, that will tempt them. So, don't carry too much of it and be descrete and don't flash your wallet around.

Someone mentioned Palermo. It is one of the safest cities in Europe for tourists. You can leave your rented car unlocked in down town Palermo with your 1Ds II on the seat. Try that in Paris. Or Oslo. What will eventually bring you in deep trouble in Palermo is starting a night club without paying 'protection money' to the Mafia. Then you are history. (Trying to start a night club in Oslo will bring you into an endless correspondance with the political establishment, - that will last into 'future history', if you are not well connected).

 

[EmilGil]

Palermo is not only a mafia stronghold in Italy but also a part of north-eastern Buenos Aires, I think that is what the previous post referred to.

 

[fergus]

Buenos Aires is 99.9% safe, you'll have a blast.

Muggings are the least of your worries (unless you walk around with a rolex etc) ... the taxi drivers all seem to think they're the next Michael Shumacher and you are the manager of the Ferrari F1 team and it's their one chance to impress you. These days I try to choose cabs with little or no damage, and assume the driver therefore doesn't crash often, and try to sit back and relax!!!

Make sure you take real (radio) cabs, although the bits you'll read about on the web about cab's overstate the problem. In 2002/3 it was very bad, but not such an issue these days.

My spanish is pathetic and I stick out like a sore thumb as a gringo/tourist, but in 4 trips so far had no problems.

Cheers...

 

[urban_alchemist]

My nephew, who has studied at the university in Buenos Aires was robbed, - or rather mugged, out of his wallet, wrist watch and camera (Canon G2). I don't know all the details of it, but he told me that 'all the European students' had similar episodes...

Things are very different now than they were at the beginning of the century. I was there during the economic crisis, and it was indeed very scary. Everyone I knew was putting a few thousand dollars in safe deposit boxes just incase they were kidnapped - more than a few were, although luckily, they all were released unharmed. Nowadays, corrupt economic policies and rampant inflation aside, the atmosphere is much more stable and the city has returned to the [relatively] tranquil calm it is so known for. The middle class that was decimated has rebuilt itself, and the country feels much more stable. Whether the situation will continue this way is open to debate (more crises are brewing), but for now, an experience like that of your son would be rather uncommon.

Someone mentioned Palermo. It is one of the safest cities in Europe for tourists. You can leave your rented car unlocked in down town Palermo with your 1Ds II on the seat. Try that in Paris. Or Oslo. What will eventually bring you in deep trouble in Palermo is starting a night club without paying 'protection money' to the Mafia. Then you are history. (Trying to start a night club in Oslo will bring you into an endless correspondance with the political establishment, - that will last into 'future history', if you are not well connected).

I was referring to the Palermo neighbourhood of Buenos-Aires - the city's largest barrio, and populated by some of its best restaurants, bars and shops.

 

[oscroft]

The wrist watch was a 'vantage Rollex' - he's a Rollex collector, was most likely the item that caught the muggers interest, he thinks.

Lucky he wasn't wearing a Rolex - they're worth a lot more than Rollex watches 😀

But seriously, Rolex collectors going round flashing their wealth in BA really isn't a meaningful model for our friend on his photographic trip,

 

[SolaresLarrave]

We have the disposition for late-night fun, so we're pretty excited about that.

Then, La Recoleta is for you. It's an area near a well-known cemetery in BA (which is, of course, La Recoleta). Life starts at around 11 PM or later; lots of restaurants open and serving incredibly good fare... at incredibly high prices (not exorbitant, mind you), and a nice, festive environment.

La Recoleta is the upper-class cemetery, and lots of diplomats, writers and famous people are buried there. The other cemetery, representing the opposite side of the social spectrum, is La Chacarita, in which other writers, poets and actors are buried. From both, only La Recoleta has the glittery spirit of the place to which one goes "to be seen."

When we heard from the hotel owner about La Recoleta, we went just to check it out. We ended going there twice, because the shops, restaurants and bar are open and doing brisk business.

Hence, don't be apprehensive at all. BA, like Barcelona and many European cities, can be a dangerous place if you're unfortunate (wrong place, wrong time). If you just act as if you were in Boston, NYC or any other large city, you'll do fine.

BTW, La Recoleta is a great people-watching place at any time of the day. If you can do it, go to "La Biela" ("connecting rod") for an afternoon coffee: it's a cafe-restaurant with a lot of class and tradition. Apparently Juan Manuel Fangio and other drivers either used to meet there, or had something to do in its inception, hence the automotive-related name of the place.

Take care! 🙂

 

[Olsen]

Nowadays, corrupt economic policies and rampant inflation aside..... /

... sounds like Oslo...

 

[ath]

La Recoleta is the upper-class cemetery, and lots of diplomats, writers and famous people are buried there.

Amongst them: Evita.

 

[micromontenegro]

The wrist watch was a 'vantage Rollex'

Maybe that goes to illustrate the difference between cultures. Here in Latin America, one would consider the absolute pinnacle of lack of common sense to walk around in a strange city with a Rolex. In our eyes, that is asking for robbery. And the fact that we think this way is quite sad, when you think about it.

 

[Olsen]

Maybe that goes to illustrate the difference between cultures. Here in Latin America, one would consider the absolute pinnacle of lack of common sense to walk around in a strange city with a Rolex. In our eyes, that is asking for robbery. And the fact that we think this way is quite sad, when you think about it.

I agree with you.

In Oslo, where I live, it is not only a sign of lack of common sense, but bad taste. I find Rolex watches just vulgar. But my nephew don't and had to learn it the hard way.

 

[morgan]

Lucky for me, I'm Rolex-less, just not my thing. And I don't think that when I walk around I exude wealth - most likely because I don't have a lot of it 🙂

It sounds like BA has really undergone a transformation in the last few years and that we're going at the right time. I prefer a little edginess to where I am going, more Brooklyn than Manhattan. Berlin than Paris. We like live music, edgy contemporary art, coffee. It sounds like BA fits us well. We're mostly subway riders and walkers rather than cab takers, but it's good to know that the cab aspect has gotten better.

Francisco, we're planning on visiting La Recoleta, so I'll try to find La Biela. It sounds like a cool place. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Olsen]

Morgan,

It's gonna be great! I wish it was me going to Argentina.