Oly RC

pete63uk

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Just a quick question for you knowledgable chaps out there. What could be the likely (if any) problem af an RC , where the shutter fires in manual but not auto? Is it like ly to be simple? like batteries?

Thanks.
 
I have one and have never had a dead battery, but I know I can use mine without a battery when it is on manual. The meter doesn't work though. Change the battery to see if it works on auto.
 
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Well, the batteries did nothing and as I wound it on (no film) something went ping inside and now it's jammed. And the door hinge is going to fall apart soon as well. Might be reduced to spares for a new one I thonk.
 
One thing you might try (before throwing it against the wall) is to remove the bottom plate and just check to see if the wires to the battery holder are corroded and have come loose. Be careful these wires are sometimes stainless and will not take solder. If you want, I'll check mine with a continuity checker to see if current bridges, if it does and yours doesn't then there is a loose wire someplace.
 
Even if Auto mode is not working, it's still nice camera and in manual mode pictures will be just fine. If you manage to un-stick it.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Charjohn, did you manage to get a passive resistance? I'm assuming that the case is part of the circuit?

Update - I metered my camera and I get a reading of around 1 meg ohm, which reduces gradually as though there is some capacitive coupling.
 
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I have a similar problem. In Auto, when the shutter is depressed, the needle always goes into the red zone - irrespective of any shutter speed and aperture combination used. The battery appears to be ok, so is the problem as John describes above or am I missing something else?
Best regards,
RoyM
 
Thanks John

There was a small amount of corrosion around the fixing screw in the base of the battery contact which I've cleaned. The meter needle is free to move. Following this, I placed a ohm-meter across the battery contact and the wire that connects to the meter, and get an open circuit - is this the problem?
Best regards,
RoyM
 
Hi, I have a RC as well, I would think that if it works in Manual Mode but not in auto, two possibilities, battery US not connecting properly or exposure settings outside auto range for light conditions. Simple to check although never had any problems with mine and I use a hearing aid battery with a rubber O ring to make up for difference in size.
 
That's what it looked like. Is the removal of the battery compartment easy?
Best regards,
RoyM

Roy -

I had exactly this problem on an RC I picked up for a song a few months ago. I found this link on the web which has useful information and pictures. Read all of it before you start because there's a lot of unnecessary info to start with, but it does show how to get the battery compartment out. It is glued in so will require a bit of careful levering. The wire was quite badly corroded on mine but I was able to resolder it with care. It's fiddly, but not difficult. Good luck!

Regards
Richard
 
Replacing the wire is best. Once corrosion is inside the wire, the conductor corrodes and is no longer a conductor. If you can cut off the bad end, strip and re-tin it, you should be able to use it. You'd also have to take apart the screw in the battery box and clean all contact points. John
 
Can I add a question on this generally? If you have a corroded wire how can you cut and strip a new one - the wires are so tiny! Also whats a good replacement wire? I was thinking of using wire from an ethernet cable. They are very thin. Finally what do you do if the wire is stainless and will not take normal solder. Thanks
 
Try stripping very carefully to shiny wire, do not cut too much wire, and then gluing in place with conductive glue. Great stuff.
 
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