maddoc
... likes film again.
The one thing I liked a lot about my M4-P was the vulcanite-covering, much better grip compared to the modern standard coverings of the M6/M6TTL/M7/MP. Unfortunately, some weeks ago a chip of vulcanite came of my M4-P while removing the bottom-plate while loading a film... :bang: Once vulcanite starts coming off the camera, the process will continue so I had to think about recovering my camera.
Since I heard so many good things about the "wonder-covering" GRIPTACK, I ordered a set (black charcoal) from cameraleather. It arrived very fast (Japan) and is reasonable cheap, especially compared to the more fancy leather-based recovering sets.
Meanwhile, I had "secured" the remaining vulcanite with a piece of black masking tape but this has to be changed from time to time and more and more vulcanite chips broke off.
So I decided that it is time to exchange the covering and first tried to figure out how to remove the remains of the vulcanite, which was still quite a large part. First I tried with a sharp knife but soon gave up because it wasn't very effective, I was afraid to cut into my hand or fingers and also to scratch the black chrome of the top or bottom plate. According to the web-site of cameraleather, a paint-stripper containing Methylene-chloride should do wonder in removing vulcanite ... But, I was not able to find any paint-stripper of this kind but instead a helpful hint at Asahi-Aki's web-site who recommends using a paint-stripper made by Holst (famous company for car-paints) and available in car-shops. This one is free from Methylene-chloride, BTW !
For safety reasons, I decided to the job on our balcony but unfortunately, the temperatures are already quite low in the late evening ... Anyway, I applied a thick layer of the paint-stripper with a small, brush, repeated this for two times and after one hour (!!), the vulcanite started showing large blistered parts. (To keep things simple I had applied the stripper only to one half of the front-side initially). Removing the blistered vulcanite was easy.
This photo shows the camera with half of the vulcanite removed and the stripper applied to the other half part of the front-side:
I took great care to not come to close to the top or bottom-plate and also the frame-line lever. In case of the M4 / M4-2 / M4-P this lever contains a plastic part, which would have been dissolved by the stripper and I decided to remove the vulcanite here as final step. Also, it is important to keep the paint-stripper away from the back-door frame, which is only painted ! The vulacanite-free M4-P looks like this, still lots of residuals from the resin:
The residual can be easily removed by applying small amounts of paint-stripper, waiting for ~ 10 minutes and then wiping it off with lots of paper-towels. After finishing this job, the camera looked better and was ready for recovering:
Residuals of resin at the corners near the top-plate, strap-lugs and the back-door, could be scratched off with a very sharp knife.
To easily mount the new cover, at cameraleather's website it is recommended to use the wet-mounting method (wetting the camera with alcohol or an alcohol-containing hand sanitizer that is free from soups and remoisturizing additives). Since I couldn't find that kind of hand-sanitizer, I used Isopropyl alcohol for this and applied it to the adhesive site of the griptack instead of wetting the camera. Applying the new covering following the wet-method was very easy and fast. The covering can be moved around for ~ 1h until the Isopropyl has evaporated, sufficient time to adjust it.
The griptack covered camera looks like this now:
I think the griptack cover looks OK, actually not to different in color from the original vulcanite. The grip is better compared to the original vulcanite cover. However, it is noticeable thinner and now the red-dot sticks out of the surface while it was recessed into the vulcanite before.
Total time (without the time I have spent to find a working paint-stripper) was ~ 7 hours. The job is not to difficult but some care has to be taken, especially when applying the paint-stripper.
Cheers,
Gabor
Since I heard so many good things about the "wonder-covering" GRIPTACK, I ordered a set (black charcoal) from cameraleather. It arrived very fast (Japan) and is reasonable cheap, especially compared to the more fancy leather-based recovering sets.
Meanwhile, I had "secured" the remaining vulcanite with a piece of black masking tape but this has to be changed from time to time and more and more vulcanite chips broke off.
So I decided that it is time to exchange the covering and first tried to figure out how to remove the remains of the vulcanite, which was still quite a large part. First I tried with a sharp knife but soon gave up because it wasn't very effective, I was afraid to cut into my hand or fingers and also to scratch the black chrome of the top or bottom plate. According to the web-site of cameraleather, a paint-stripper containing Methylene-chloride should do wonder in removing vulcanite ... But, I was not able to find any paint-stripper of this kind but instead a helpful hint at Asahi-Aki's web-site who recommends using a paint-stripper made by Holst (famous company for car-paints) and available in car-shops. This one is free from Methylene-chloride, BTW !
For safety reasons, I decided to the job on our balcony but unfortunately, the temperatures are already quite low in the late evening ... Anyway, I applied a thick layer of the paint-stripper with a small, brush, repeated this for two times and after one hour (!!), the vulcanite started showing large blistered parts. (To keep things simple I had applied the stripper only to one half of the front-side initially). Removing the blistered vulcanite was easy.
This photo shows the camera with half of the vulcanite removed and the stripper applied to the other half part of the front-side:

I took great care to not come to close to the top or bottom-plate and also the frame-line lever. In case of the M4 / M4-2 / M4-P this lever contains a plastic part, which would have been dissolved by the stripper and I decided to remove the vulcanite here as final step. Also, it is important to keep the paint-stripper away from the back-door frame, which is only painted ! The vulacanite-free M4-P looks like this, still lots of residuals from the resin:

The residual can be easily removed by applying small amounts of paint-stripper, waiting for ~ 10 minutes and then wiping it off with lots of paper-towels. After finishing this job, the camera looked better and was ready for recovering:

Residuals of resin at the corners near the top-plate, strap-lugs and the back-door, could be scratched off with a very sharp knife.
To easily mount the new cover, at cameraleather's website it is recommended to use the wet-mounting method (wetting the camera with alcohol or an alcohol-containing hand sanitizer that is free from soups and remoisturizing additives). Since I couldn't find that kind of hand-sanitizer, I used Isopropyl alcohol for this and applied it to the adhesive site of the griptack instead of wetting the camera. Applying the new covering following the wet-method was very easy and fast. The covering can be moved around for ~ 1h until the Isopropyl has evaporated, sufficient time to adjust it.
The griptack covered camera looks like this now:

I think the griptack cover looks OK, actually not to different in color from the original vulcanite. The grip is better compared to the original vulcanite cover. However, it is noticeable thinner and now the red-dot sticks out of the surface while it was recessed into the vulcanite before.
Total time (without the time I have spent to find a working paint-stripper) was ~ 7 hours. The job is not to difficult but some care has to be taken, especially when applying the paint-stripper.
Cheers,
Gabor
maddoc
... likes film again.
Thomas,
certainly will enjoy the new tactile feeling of my M4-P and it is for sure better than brittle vulcanite ...
I have seen some other photos of griptack-covered M Leicas and always wondered about why the edge of the top-plate and bottom-plate sticks out. It is not much, only a few tenth of a millimeter but noticeable. Anyhow, better than the slippery standard cover of modern Leicas.
certainly will enjoy the new tactile feeling of my M4-P and it is for sure better than brittle vulcanite ...
I have seen some other photos of griptack-covered M Leicas and always wondered about why the edge of the top-plate and bottom-plate sticks out. It is not much, only a few tenth of a millimeter but noticeable. Anyhow, better than the slippery standard cover of modern Leicas.
roundg
Well-known
wow, you have done a very nice job. I haven't tried griptack. For me, they are too modern on a leica body. I like the pebble embross from Aki-asahi quite much. But maybe I wil change my mind.
maddoc
... likes film again.
Robin,
thanks !
Originally, I wanted to use a covering from Aki Asahi but he doesn't seem to offer M4-P covering-sets anymore
The griptack looks quite similar to vulcanite. Since I am lazy, I did not replace the original and intact vulcanite of the back-door of my M4-P:
thanks !
The griptack looks quite similar to vulcanite. Since I am lazy, I did not replace the original and intact vulcanite of the back-door of my M4-P:

rickp
Well-known
hello gabor
thanks for the photo "adventure" story about recovering your m4p. the camera looks very good in its new clothes!
i also tried to find the paint stripper recommended by cameraleather. no luck in europe - and apparently the stuff cannot even be sent by normal mail in the u.s. - "dangerous material" of some sort. so thanks also for the tip about HOLST stripper.
greetings from hamburg
rick
thanks for the photo "adventure" story about recovering your m4p. the camera looks very good in its new clothes!
i also tried to find the paint stripper recommended by cameraleather. no luck in europe - and apparently the stuff cannot even be sent by normal mail in the u.s. - "dangerous material" of some sort. so thanks also for the tip about HOLST stripper.
greetings from hamburg
rick
maddoc
... likes film again.
Hello Rick and thanks ! 
I did some research on the web and found various informations about the hazardousness of methylene chloride (toxic, cancerogen) and also properties of vulcanite. The idea for using the Holst paint-stripper is originally from Aki-Asahi's website. He mentioned that many kind of these paint strippers can be used and the Holst one is very easy to find.
Cheers,
Gabor
I did some research on the web and found various informations about the hazardousness of methylene chloride (toxic, cancerogen) and also properties of vulcanite. The idea for using the Holst paint-stripper is originally from Aki-Asahi's website. He mentioned that many kind of these paint strippers can be used and the Holst one is very easy to find.
Cheers,
Gabor
newspaperguy
Well-known
Beautiful job, nicely illustrated. Thank you.
laptoprob
back to basics
When I first stripped an M2 I discovered by accident that temperature does miracles. The camera had been in the sun fur some time and the remaining vulcanite easily peeled off.
A second time I put the camera in the oven at lowest temp, about 50°C. For about 10 mins I think.
Temperature works miracles!
A second time I put the camera in the oven at lowest temp, about 50°C. For about 10 mins I think.
Temperature works miracles!
fbf
Well-known
I have been waiting for the griptac (actually 3 sets of them) for over a month. Nothing from morgan yet. The vulcanite is fine on my m4p but I don't like the red dot or the asa panel so I decide to get rid of them at the same time.
fbf
Well-known
Not being handy myself, could you explain how you're going to remove the red dot and which (camera) model griptac you're going to use?
The red dot is simply glued-on from my understanding. Morgan gives you the choice (w/ or w/o the reddot cutout). Same thing for the ASA panel, it's just glued-on.
Rafael
Mandlerian
Nice job Gabor! The new covering looks great. I replaced the covering on my MP with Griptac after owning the camera for only a couple of weeks. In my opinion, it's a great covering. Were I ever to get another body, I would almost assuredly put Griptac on it straight away. It really does improve the handling of the camera. Enjoy your "new" M4-P.
ZeissFan
Veteran
I have been waiting for the griptac (actually 3 sets of them) for over a month. Nothing from morgan yet. The vulcanite is fine on my m4p but I don't like the red dot or the asa panel so I decide to get rid of them at the same time.
You better send him a follow-up e-mail. In fact, send him one daily until he sends your material. The squeaky wheel gets their order filled.
maddoc
... likes film again.
Thanks again ! 
About temperature .... it would have have been easier to warm up the camera but I don't have any oven at home that can be set (and controlled) to temperatures ~ 50 degrees Celsius. Also the M4-P has many plastic-parts, might be some risk t warm it up ...
Delivery time for the set was exactly 10 days from my Paypal-payment until I found the letter with the recovering-set in my mailbox.
EDIT: Marc, I am thinking about recovering my M7 also with griptack when it has come back from service. The standard M7 covering looks nice but is not very slip-proof....
About temperature .... it would have have been easier to warm up the camera but I don't have any oven at home that can be set (and controlled) to temperatures ~ 50 degrees Celsius. Also the M4-P has many plastic-parts, might be some risk t warm it up ...
Delivery time for the set was exactly 10 days from my Paypal-payment until I found the letter with the recovering-set in my mailbox.
EDIT: Marc, I am thinking about recovering my M7 also with griptack when it has come back from service. The standard M7 covering looks nice but is not very slip-proof....
Last edited:
david.elliott
Well-known
Looks good. Thanks for sharing the photos!
I am recovering my M3 DS with an aki-asahi cover shortly.
I am recovering my M3 DS with an aki-asahi cover shortly.
wjlapier
Well-known
Looks great. I have my Griptac for my MP, but have hesitated for one reason or other. Curious. Does the gap where the two pieces come together below the lens mount "go away"? Can you see it or feel it there?
Gabor, thanks for sharing your recovering effort. You did a great job and I'm sure will help others in their recovering.
Bill
Gabor, thanks for sharing your recovering effort. You did a great job and I'm sure will help others in their recovering.
Bill
maddoc
... likes film again.
David, Bill: Thank you !
Regarding the gap below the lens mount.... it is visible and approx. 0.5mm wide. The fit of the recovery-kit is 100% perfect with respect to the 5 body-shell screws, frame-lever, lens-release button, rewind-lever, strap-lugs but there is also a very very fine gap also on the right front-side below the top-plate. It is only visible under close inspection and bright light but it is there....
I see it this way, better a small gap in a griptack covering than a damaged and partly broken vulcanite cover.
Regarding the gap below the lens mount.... it is visible and approx. 0.5mm wide. The fit of the recovery-kit is 100% perfect with respect to the 5 body-shell screws, frame-lever, lens-release button, rewind-lever, strap-lugs but there is also a very very fine gap also on the right front-side below the top-plate. It is only visible under close inspection and bright light but it is there....
I see it this way, better a small gap in a griptack covering than a damaged and partly broken vulcanite cover.
nandemofoto
Established
I thought you were getting the pink hello kitty one : (
maddoc
... likes film again.
memphis, good plan ! ... would like to do some shots at life concerts over there !
Julian, sorry to disappoint you but the pink Hello-Kitty-leatherette fall off my camera immediately after applying ....
Julian, sorry to disappoint you but the pink Hello-Kitty-leatherette fall off my camera immediately after applying ....
tenderobject
paper negative
hi maddoc,
nice work on your m4-p! mine needs one very very soon (maybe after the shfat replacement and CLA)..
the vulcanite in the bottom right side is chipping off.. i noticed some rust in the body as well
what should i use to get rid of those? a sandpaper, any good to get rid of the residuals in the body before putting on the new leatherette?
how does the griptack feels in your hand? i love the original vulcanite on my m4p. it suits me well.. the thickness is very good.. but the griptack is not that thick like the original vulcanite right? would you mind to post some close ups pics on the red dot and other parts if not that much to you.
any other coverings you guys can recommend that is close to leica m4-p original vulcanite?
thanks a lot maddoc and others!
regards
nice work on your m4-p! mine needs one very very soon (maybe after the shfat replacement and CLA)..
the vulcanite in the bottom right side is chipping off.. i noticed some rust in the body as well
how does the griptack feels in your hand? i love the original vulcanite on my m4p. it suits me well.. the thickness is very good.. but the griptack is not that thick like the original vulcanite right? would you mind to post some close ups pics on the red dot and other parts if not that much to you.
any other coverings you guys can recommend that is close to leica m4-p original vulcanite?
thanks a lot maddoc and others!
regards
maddoc
... likes film again.
tenderobject,
from your description, the vulcanite starts coming off your M4-P at the same place as in the case of my M4-P.... The rust you describe, sounds like residuals of the resin. Either larger brown spots or areas, with some powder-like grey residual, I guess ? I scratched the grey powder-like residual with a sharp knife carefully away, sandpaper might be useful also.
The griptack is thinner compared to vulcanite but the grip is better. I can try to take a close-up photo later this week, where you can better see the thickness of the griptack.
All in all, I like the new covering. It wasn't to expensive and it fits my needs.
Cheers,
Gabor
from your description, the vulcanite starts coming off your M4-P at the same place as in the case of my M4-P.... The rust you describe, sounds like residuals of the resin. Either larger brown spots or areas, with some powder-like grey residual, I guess ? I scratched the grey powder-like residual with a sharp knife carefully away, sandpaper might be useful also.
The griptack is thinner compared to vulcanite but the grip is better. I can try to take a close-up photo later this week, where you can better see the thickness of the griptack.
All in all, I like the new covering. It wasn't to expensive and it fits my needs.
Cheers,
Gabor
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.