Why can't I load my 120 film onto my stainless steel reel properly?

gilpen123 said:
I suggest you get the Samigon reels it's foolproof to load 120 and 135 as the guide (flange) is big. It can be used with Paterson universal or the Samigon plastic tanks itself. I use the former. You can get it at BH Photo http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=5076&N=4294542843+4291239345 it's cheaper to buy with the tank. Here are some reviews http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...&sku=122989&is=REG&si=rev#anchorToReadReviews
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These wide-flange reels make loading 120 a snap. Freestyle has the same one (http://www.freestylephoto.biz/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel). They're manufactured by AP Photo in Spain.

James
 
Another vote from me for the Hewes reels. I also second the advice previously given about clipping the leading corners, this made a huge difference for me getting the film started in the clip, which I've also had no issues using.
 
There are bad steel reels readily available if you look for the lowest price. Both Adorama and B&H carry them. Look for the 1-star reviews, and keep moving up in price until you see some feedback that they don't have tilted edges or filled-in welds. I was burned with bad reels at $8 for 35mm and $13 for 120 at B&H, and I put the information into the reviews. It turned out I was not the first one (at least for the 35mm reels). Since Hewes reels are about $50, it does pay to look for good used reels or quality low end stuff.

scott
 
Over the last twenty years, I must have tried stainless tanks at least a dozen times. They look so good! The heck with them. I went back to tried and true plastic reels because of the problems you're experiencing. I can't see any real advantage to stainless for either B&W or color. Why make life difficult?

John
 
I have had many different 120 stainless reels and here is my conclusion of problems I have had: DO NOT USE THE CLIPS.
 
Negative said:
No, it's a reel I got off Adorama, not really a brand, I guess.
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There are a number of distortions that can be present that would make loading difficult. Find a good flat surface (e.g. kitchen counter) and roll the reel away from you. Carefully watch the center "core", both end spirals, and the path the reel takes across the counter.

The center core should revolve without any wiggle or tilting. Both end spirals should roll without any tilting to the left and/or right. Finally, the reel should roll perfectly straight, not follow a curved path. If your reel exhibits any of these imperfections it is flawed and the flaws could very easily make it a royal pain to load.

The better reels will be made to tighter tolerances and, perhaps more importantly, made with heavier guage wire. The heavier construction goes a long way to keeping a well made reel properly square and true.

Years ago I ran camera stores. We sold a full line of darkroom equipment and supplies. We routinely carried both some pricey name brand reels and some distributer brand inexpensive reels. The name brand reels were consistently well aligned and problem free. The inexpensive reels were a different matter. I significant percentage were out of alignment (one or more of the flaws I listed above in the roll test) and frequently had poorly finished weld joints. Needless to say, we returned many to our supplier for replacement, at least the ones we couldn't straighten ourselves. Who knows what poor dealer received the ones we returned.
 
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I use any stainless reel as long as it is not bent, and I do always use the clip, and I have several types. As mentioned, the Hewes reels are heavy duty larger gauge, and they are accurately made—and they are really great to use. Freestyle Sales has them for a great price. Also, the clip is also the easiest to use. Old Nikor reels are of similar quality.
 
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With 120 roll film, I find it best to unroll the film from the paper backing first, rather than than trying to let the paper peel away as I load. Just as importantly, I find it best to start with the end of the film that was taped to the paper and closest to the takeup spool. To be clear, this is actually the lead end, in order of shooting, though it's at the tail of the exposed roll. I think this works because the film is curled into a tighter radius at that end, so loads better onto the tighter spirals at the core of the spool.

Trying to use the clip causes me some trouble, because I find it hard to center the film, which then causes loading problems. Not using the clip causes a different problem--the film wants to creep inward towards the core of the reel. If it goes too far it can overlap and not allow the chemicals to reach the emulsion. I've been known to load without the clip, then secure the film to a metal crossbar with a little tape.
 
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