regularchickens
Well-known
I'm looking for creamy-smooth midtones in my B&W, as I feel like that's something I've been missing. It's relatively easy for me in 120 (Neopan 400 and F76+ via a Tessar in open shade form my favorite combination for that), but trickier for me in 35mm, especially with 400-speed B&W.
So, what do you do and/or use (lenses, films, developers, printing, Photoshop) to get those gorgeous, creamy midtones?
So, what do you do and/or use (lenses, films, developers, printing, Photoshop) to get those gorgeous, creamy midtones?
ChrisN
Striving
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
I think midtones depend on light, exposition & development, and printing, but not on the film or lens... You as the photographer can use a material to have different looks... Not all shots with a film or lens will have similar midtones, and similar midtones can be achieved with different films or lenses...
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
It seems easier in 120 then 35mm, this one is with a Rolleiflex 3.5F with Tri-X at 200 souped in Xtol 1:1, a bit of toning in PS. Not sure if it's what your looking for but it looks 'creamy' to me.

T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
Light may play into this but I think the contrast of the lens does as well, here is one taken with a 50/2 collapsible summicron on Tri-X rated at 200 same developer as above...
next same film and developer but with a pre-asph 50/1.4 summilux
Todd

next same film and developer but with a pre-asph 50/1.4 summilux

Todd
Roger Hicks
Veteran
1 Larger formats
2 Overexposure
3 Not being too worried about grain and sharpness (which don't matter as much with bigger formats...)
Cheers,
R.
2 Overexposure
3 Not being too worried about grain and sharpness (which don't matter as much with bigger formats...)
Cheers,
R.
paulfish4570
Veteran
wow. that "aerial" shot of the swimmers is wonderful ...
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Todd, great expo, dev, and PS!
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
ferider
Veteran
Does that count ? (Neopan 400 @ 320 in Rodinal 1:100, semi-stand)
Roland.

Roland.
paulfish4570
Veteran
oh, yeah ...
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Roland, that's really amazing! Which lens did you use?
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
ferider
Veteran
My v2 Summilux 50/1.4 Juan.
Thanks for the feedback - I'm still pretty new to self development. Completely focused on Rodinal so far.
Roland.
Thanks for the feedback - I'm still pretty new to self development. Completely focused on Rodinal so far.
Roland.
peterm1
Veteran
I think the secret is in subtle gradations of tone. I have seen it most often in film based images, but I find this to be a particularly vexing issue with digital as opposed to film as digital tends not to be able to produce quite the same subtle gradations of tones quite so well or quite so reliably. Digitals notriously poor dynamic rnage is a limit here as its too easy to lose shadow and highlight detail - whereas what you need is the image tones gradually fading into these, not the blocky sudden transition that can occur.
But a few techniques may help in the digital domain......... Slightly lower mid range contrast assists. Also slight overdoing the noise reduction can smooth the image somewhat although this is problematic with photos containing much detail of course. However this affects detail more than tone but it still can help. In addition, I sometimes find it useful to add a slight amount of "glow" (some plugins facilitate this) which softens mid range tonal detail without obliterating it and can provide nice highlight tones. Incidentally one further thing I find helps is to add a tiny amount of silver toning (a very very soft sepia / warming tone.) Often my digital BW images are a little too cold in tone. The almost subliminal warming effect of the above does in my view help apparent smoothness and creaminess.
Adverting to my film experiences, I found that its affected by film type (perhaps obviously) and one of the best films for producing this effect in my opinion was the old Ilford XP2 chromogenic film which had lovely tonal range when shot at 100/200 ISO instead of its native 400 ISO.
I may also be affected by lens used and f stop. In the first image below (digital) I relied on post processing "fiddling" using the above techniques to get a pretty smooth tonal range that has some creaminess about it.
In the second image (digital - color) its pretty well down to the fact that I used a DSLR with Nikon's justly famous 180mm f2.8 lens which produces wonderfully "smooth" images. I am pretty sure if I converted this to black and white it would have the creaminess you are looking for.
But a few techniques may help in the digital domain......... Slightly lower mid range contrast assists. Also slight overdoing the noise reduction can smooth the image somewhat although this is problematic with photos containing much detail of course. However this affects detail more than tone but it still can help. In addition, I sometimes find it useful to add a slight amount of "glow" (some plugins facilitate this) which softens mid range tonal detail without obliterating it and can provide nice highlight tones. Incidentally one further thing I find helps is to add a tiny amount of silver toning (a very very soft sepia / warming tone.) Often my digital BW images are a little too cold in tone. The almost subliminal warming effect of the above does in my view help apparent smoothness and creaminess.
Adverting to my film experiences, I found that its affected by film type (perhaps obviously) and one of the best films for producing this effect in my opinion was the old Ilford XP2 chromogenic film which had lovely tonal range when shot at 100/200 ISO instead of its native 400 ISO.
I may also be affected by lens used and f stop. In the first image below (digital) I relied on post processing "fiddling" using the above techniques to get a pretty smooth tonal range that has some creaminess about it.
In the second image (digital - color) its pretty well down to the fact that I used a DSLR with Nikon's justly famous 180mm f2.8 lens which produces wonderfully "smooth" images. I am pretty sure if I converted this to black and white it would have the creaminess you are looking for.


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Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Wow Roland! What a lens! What a shot! What a great expo&dev! Great point of view, composition and camera leveling! Wow!
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers,
Juan
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers,
Juan
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
well as usual
Todd & Roland 's pre asph lux shots won me over.....
Lovely gradation of Tones, beautifully Crisp with a Soft Glow...
peterm1 / Fab digi nikon pix...soooo Creamy dof
Todd & Roland 's pre asph lux shots won me over.....
Lovely gradation of Tones, beautifully Crisp with a Soft Glow...
peterm1 / Fab digi nikon pix...soooo Creamy dof
snausages
Well-known
Todd, that shot of the swimmers is amazing. And Roland your shot through the window has so many clearly articulated tones it almost doesn't look like a photograph.
I've been pretty happy with a b&w workflow that goes like this: tri-x, d76 1+1, moderate to low agitation, all aiming for medium to low contrast negatives so that I have lots of flexibility after scanning.
(cron 40)
I've been pretty happy with a b&w workflow that goes like this: tri-x, d76 1+1, moderate to low agitation, all aiming for medium to low contrast negatives so that I have lots of flexibility after scanning.

(cron 40)
remegius
Well-known
...a bit of toning in PS.
Todd...
I love toning, and have been doing it more and more in PS. I was just wondering if you do it on the fly, or whether you have some canned toning settings that you regularly use.
Cheers...
Rem
ferider
Veteran
Thanks guys
That means a lot to me.
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
thanks to those that commented.
Snausages, the swimmers shot may be amazing but hardly compares to your girlfriend, truly amazing
Todd
Snausages, the swimmers shot may be amazing but hardly compares to your girlfriend, truly amazing
Todd
Roger Hicks
Veteran
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/portraits/julie & holly 450h.jpg
Pentax SV, Acupan 200 (Foma 200), EI 80 in Paterson FX-39, Paterson Warmtone paper
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/malta/m m g xaghra mill spiral stairs 1b.jpg
Voigtlander Bessa-12, 12/5.6 Voigtländer, Acros 100 @ EI 64, Ilford MG WT
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/uk/two chairs.jpg
KowaSIX, 85/2,8, Maco Cube 400 @ 400 spot metered, Ilford MG WT
Three films, three systems, two formats. But the easiest way is XP2 Super:
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/portraits/neil & leslie.jpg
where Frances used a 75/2.5 Voigtländer on a Nikkormat and printed on MG WT.
Cheers,
R.
Pentax SV, Acupan 200 (Foma 200), EI 80 in Paterson FX-39, Paterson Warmtone paper
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/malta/m m g xaghra mill spiral stairs 1b.jpg
Voigtlander Bessa-12, 12/5.6 Voigtländer, Acros 100 @ EI 64, Ilford MG WT
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/uk/two chairs.jpg
KowaSIX, 85/2,8, Maco Cube 400 @ 400 spot metered, Ilford MG WT
Three films, three systems, two formats. But the easiest way is XP2 Super:
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/images/portraits/neil & leslie.jpg
where Frances used a 75/2.5 Voigtländer on a Nikkormat and printed on MG WT.
Cheers,
R.
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